Janus77

Further Information: for the DIY enthusiast. Will cut up to a 12” driver cutout. Good condition, only used for 1 project. Moving and most stuff needs to go.

Further Information: mini dsp 2x4HD with 4 x class D 15w mono amplifiers. Used for testing 2 way speakers before finalising passive crossover. Could also be used as active crossover/amp if someone wanted. Includes power supply for mini dsp. Amps are connected to mini dsp with 4 x +\- speaker outputs. Power brick to power amplifiers not included. Was using a laptop power brick 18.5v/6.5amp output. Has only been used a few times, is almost new.

Further Information: purchased to use in a small project I never got to. Moving overseas.

Further Information: adapter to attach a bolt on type compression driver to a screw in horn. I measured them and they sucked (it impacts the response having the adapters), but if you need them

Further Information: purchased for a project, decided not to use them. Bought off eBay from China.

Further Information: pulled out of a centre channel speaker that had a blown tweeter. Heavy magnets, good for a cheap diy project.

Further Information: purchased for future projects, moving overseas and need to clean out. mused but good condition.

Further Information: Bought these for a 2 way project I didn’t get to. Unused. Save 30% off retail price. moving overseas.

Further Information: I lost the clip that holds the microphone, fairly easy to source. otherwise has worked well for the few projects I’ve done.

Further Information: as new Dayton DATS V3 audio test system. moving overseas, trying to thin the herd.

I have it set up on the dedicated Tidal switch, and control it with my phone playing through the ifi streamer, works a treat.

Awesome little streamer, i use this with the Zen dac, highly recomment.

OK, fuse replaced. Actually the wires holding the fuse at the ends had a common connection to the clips, so there was no need to solder the replacement fuse to them. An engineer at work checked it and said they normally only use that type for high vibration applications - and was likely only used to scare off the average punter from trying to replace it themselves. Regardless amp is back in action, thanks for the advice Monkeyboi and Muon

I’ve snipped it out, i think I should have just desoldered it at the fuse cap though now that I have it in my hand. Ah well live and learn. Will get and get a replacement fuse tomorrow.

So I can just snip the wires then when I put the replacement fuse in, I solder them together?

If they are separate end caps, it’s a very tight fit.

Thanks for the update now watch this space as I ruin my amp!

It looks like this fuse is attached to wires going through the board. How do I remove it?

Between children, wife and work i've had little time for speaker building recently. However the kids going to a friend's for a playdate on the weekend gave me some spare hours, and so i've progressed the build. Am quite close to finishing now, just need to do some final coats of Danish oil, cure and sand the baffles, then a coat or two more of Duratex. Should have them finished in the next few days. Will post up some pics once completed.

Work has been leaving me little free time. managed to demo the crossover on one speaker. Hopefully put the 2nd together for some stereo listening tomorrow.

Do the T/S parameters vary much between the OG drivers and the new Textreme versions?

Always enjoy your builds Maz, nice work! I don't think i'd get a sub that size approved for our living area, but flat to 25hz or so it must add some fill to the room!

Changed to a 2nd order woofer, 3rd order tweeter phase matching is better, getting the phase rotation to match is still challenging though. The bump in response on the *tweeter (thanks Dave) around 2000hz makes the phase wonky, otherwise they're well matched up to the crossover point, not great after.. I need to get some ground plane measurements for the low end..

Thoughts, comments? I'm not going to try and fix what is probably some cabinet diffraction around 6-9khz (it disappears off axis). Have been running them with my mini dsp rig, they sound good with a crossover at 2khz, though a touch shouty, so i've backed off the response around 9-1200 and also 3-4.5khz. is the phase response close enough?

Ok, on to crossover design. First challenge, i've taken free air measurements of the drivers with Dats3, i have 6.33ohms Re on the tweeter and 6.19 on the woofer. When i plug these values into a crossover calculator for a LR2 crossover and select the crossover point at 1630hz, i get a significant variance in Xsim using those inductor and capcitor values. Xsim is giving me a crossover frequency over 2,600hz. In Xsim i've uploaded the .FRD response files measured in REW and the .ZMA impedance files from Dats3. Any thoughts?