Neo__04

Hi Cdave, Thanks for the info. The main listening area will be for prob a 3 seater couch. I prob run my music louder than movies. I've done a rough layout it Sketchup, ignore placements of speakers etc, just a rough idea. Small square on the wall will be recessed TV, large square will be drop down screen.

Hey all, Chasing advice on lots of things and hoping the knowledgeable people here might be able to guide me. I'm not far off starting to build my new house. My main aim is to have an open living/dining/kitchen area with a bit of Wow factor. A majority of the time I'd be watching streaming services or listening to music, but I'd like to aim for an atmos setup for the 30% of the time I'm keen to watch movies/have friends over etc. In an ideal world, id like to have a tv mounted on the wall for normal watching and a drop down screen in front of the tv for projected movies. But I'm aiming for a big screen, 140-160 inches, which could get expensive. Has anyone done something like this before? So the first part of my process and the most important at this stage is working out what sort of setup I want. I'm thinking of wiring for 5.2.4 with in ceiling speakers. Keep in mind, the full on movie watching is 20-30% of the time. I'd like to ideally choose a projector, (thinking of mounting projector in a bulkhead, approx 8m throw) choose a seating position, then i can prewire for speakers in set locations based on that. I've made a few sets of speakers over the years, so i would love to DIY my speakers. I'd like to aim for music quality over home theatre quality, but they will be used for both. Maybe a nice set of 3 way floor standers, centre to suit, couple of subs and surrounds/atmos. Any recommendations? I know that's almost an impossible question, but curious as to what people might have made themselves. In regards to accoustic treatments, it's a big open room so i'm guessing it could be tricky. if im not worried about sound transfer between rooms, do i bother with Soundchek plaster/batts etc? Or are they just good for the sound in general? Any general recommendations for a space like this? Some specs on the room. 2550mm ceiling, that rake at 10 degrees to approx 3150mm in the centre. 6.5m wide x 8m long. Wall for tv/projection 5.4m wide. Floor plan attached of the area If you have any other advice, throw it my way! Thanks heaps

I've been tossing up for a while now what to buy in the way of a small amp for tv/rasp pi. The 802/802c does seem to get some good reviews from people. I've been following a thread on diyaudio which has some thd measurewith with a scope. They even talk about modding similiar amps for better performance. Have a read. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/280228-i-am-d-v200-fx-audio-d802-optimisation-tpa3116.html Another highly rated amp, i think i read somewhere in the thread it had the best THD specs of the lot. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/I-AM-D-V200-Wireless-WIFI-Remote-Control-Pure-Digital-Audio-Amplifier-Headphone-Amp-USB-Optical/32417096558.html

Im no expert either but I used to use a pair of Ultimate Ears UE 900. They were about $400. Great sound. But the over ear design annoyed me. I had a pair of $150 UE in ear before that which was great too. A lot of the recommendations you might see will include shure in ears. They seem fairly popular. The dog ate my UE900, so i have to get another pair at some stage, but i think ill for something like the $150 ones i had. I only ever used it on the phone so not worth spending any more, hard to hear the difference sometimes.

Item: 4 x Hivi B4n 4" midwoofer Price Range: neg Item Condition: New or Used Extra Info: Long shot here, but wanting to build some Paul Carmody overnight sensation MTM. Trying to chase up these drivers without paying ridiculous freight from overseas. If anyone can help, let me know

All good, I was only asking the questions, because i have no idea. lol. Placed my order, so hopefully it will all come up great. Thanks

Awesome, ill put in my order now and let them know i need that done. Thanks heaps

No sorry it wasnt a mistake. Im looking at making a set of speakers from a kit also. Some of those parts i mentioned were from the other speakers crossover. I was just asking in the rules in general when I cannot find exact components. I think i read somewhere the the values matter a little less if its on the tweeter side?

Ill attach the crossover diagram. It was designed up for me by a well respected guy on another forum. He designed it up but rushed through a quick hand drawn diagram to get me going. So excuse the diagram. Hope this helps

yeah i read that earlier. I mentioned that in my email to them and he just suggested to use the 22awg instead. Id much prefer them matched, as its my first passive crossover and im only running with what someone else has designed up for me.

Hey again, Unsure what to do here. I need a 0.4mh 20awg air core. The one recommended was http://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-audio-040mh-20-awg-air-core-inductor-crossover-coil--255-032 It has 0.43 ohm dcr speakerbug has 0.4mh 17awg (0.212ohm) or 22awg (0.64ohm) I emailed them and they said to go with the 22awg as it would make little difference. Im not sure what to do now as the general consensus is that i should try and match the dcr so there is no problems. The other one i need is a 2mh 22awg air core, the recommended was http://www.parts-express.com/20mh-22-gauge-ferrite-bobbin-core-inductor--269-2128 It has 0.34ohm dcr. The one listed on speakerbug has 1.61ohm, that seems like a huge difference. Now im just confused. Can anyone give some guidance here please? Thanks heaps

Not sure what i will do with it, My father has terminal cancer, not sure he will see it out if we started. It was more one of those conversations of all the bits and pieces he did when he was younger, building amps and speakers etc. Yeah it does look like there would be a lot of work in regards to rust etc.

Thanks for the info, i should have been a little clearer with my questions, it may or may not change your answers. Im not substituting parts on an existing crossover, Im building one from scratch but following a parts list from a diy speaker kit. Not sure whether that changes anything, but thought i had better check

Hey all, In regards to crossover components, im having a hard time getting exactly the specs i need. Capacitors - I cant get hold of 20uf caps, but i can get 18uf and 22uf. Air core inductor - i cant get hold of a 2.50mh 18awg, but i can get a 2.5mh 20awg or a 2.2mh 18awg. Can anyone advise as to how critical these figuires are? And what difference it might make. Thanks heaps

Not too bad with electrical. Done plenty of wiring 12v & 240v stuff in the past for projectes, but only just started in the world of speakers/amps

Hey all, I've recently started getting into the diy audio scene with some speaker building and looking to make an amp soon. I was chatting tonight to my dad about this and he pulled out an old amp he made when he was 16, which would have been 1968. The amp has Playmaster Stereophonic on the front. Its a tube amp. Built from a kit purchased from Electronics Australia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronics_Australia Now i havent got too many more details as yet, he thinks he may even still have the circuit diagram somewhere. I haven't really looked through the circuit board for any model numbers or anything as i dont really want to touch its internal until i know some more about it. What im wondering is if its considered a good amp? And if its worth cleaning up and restoring? If anyone has any ideas, it would be a huge help. I've attached some pics.

Yeah its my fault, lol. Ok, so im happy it sounds good apart from the lack of bass sub 100hz. Im happy to glue it up and seal it. Before I do, is there a general recommendation on how to stuff/fill a speaker like this? Once i work that out, ill seal it up and test it out again

I havent got the other speaker together yet as im waiting for speaker terminals. Its definately not air tight, i only put a screw in each corner while i was stuffing around learning and measuring. Well thats my stupid fault then, So hopefully i can assume thats all it is, its just very leaky

Im back and I need some help. I have assembled the first speaker, screwed on the back panel for the moment while testing. Hooked up via a minidsp for the crossover. Running of a Behringer UCA202 usb Dac Taking some measurements in REW with a calibrated Umik-1 mic. Mic is 1m away from speaker, pointed level at tweeter. These speakers have 0 bass. The box works out at around 21.5 litres not taking into account the drivers. There is no stuffing inside at this stage. For my testing, they are around 81db at 109hz, then they drop to around 77.5db by 100hz, They are 10db down by 92 hz. No high pass filter used for the testing of the bass. Unibox says FB is arond 56.5hz, F3 78.7hz I'll attach a graph. Surely this seems wrong? Any advice would be great. Thanks heaps

Hi again, Just popping back in with some updates. Finally got around to starting my build. Been hectic at work and havent had the time or motivation to get started. So... Considering its my first set of speakers, first time using a router for this sort of work. They front of the speakers came up perfect. Speakers fit perfect, perfect cutout, perfect rebate. Couldnt be happier. So far i've glued the top,bottom and sides together. Tonight i glued the front on. So hopefully over the next few days i should have them assembled and i can do some testing. A couple of pics attached.

Just to throw another question into the mix. If i consider going an MTM design, would the box size be double what a single driver designed up to be?

Ok great, Thanks guys, Ill work on the manufacturers specs and build a sealed box to suit. That will be a bit easier as its much smaller Will post updates when the box is done. Thanks again

Hi again, Jumping back in here as I was going to do my final designs of the speaker in unibox and draw up the enclosure. I found a discrepancy and am unsure what to do. I need a bit of advice before i start anything. Through all the discussion previously in this thread, we decided on around a 27L box. I modeled the speaker again and i get quite different results based on the original speaker specs and what I measure in DATS v2. Now the big thing that makes the difference is the QES. Original specs is 0.34, my measured is 0.45, That basically DOUBLES the size of the enclosure. So when im designing this, should i be using the advertised specs, or DATS measured specs? I've attached the unibox screenshots for both lots of measurements. Thanks again guys. Such a great help you all are!

Yeah possibly poor wording on my part. Lower bass i guess i was getting at. I do think ill run a seperate sub. So im pretty much set on sealed now. Time to start drawing it all up

Awesome, thanks for the info., Yep, silly me didnt even think of putting the crossover through the speaker cutout. lol. Its early. I'll get my box built and have a play. I'll put some updates up as soon as i have some