Weka

As an EE and fully licensed electrician, I also share your concerns regarding questionable cable and plug modifications and was merely providing an example of how it can be done cheaply and legally with what is available off-the-shelf in Aus and NZ. You're busy highlighting a known problem, do you have any practical solutions?

Shall we say it has been redesigned for domestic use as the mods only negate the original IP rating and it is otherwise fully compliant with AS/NZS 3112 as verified by my friendly local electrical inspector. The orange ring just drops off when you disassemble the plug and changing the orange entry bush to a black one is of no consequence.

Mmm... like these ones that I see almost every day.

The Furutech are the only approved rewirable "pricey" (audiophile) plugs currently available.

Yes... but at $130 a pop I'd hesitate to describe them as a "standard" plug.

The PDL/Clipsal 56P310 and other heavy duty 10A plugs have terminals that are rated for 2.5mm conductors. Case in point being the standard heavy duty builder's extension lead. What disturbs me is the imported brand name cords that have been retrofitted with standard domestic plugs that are incapable of safely restraining 14-16mm diameter cable let alone terminating the 4-6mm conductors, plus screens.

I see you can also buy "genuine" fake Accuphase A65 Power Amps... https://goo.gl/hxTlmR Woops! I see that michaelw had already spotted this one.

If you're going to buy a transformer, is there any reason you can't just replace the one that's in it once it arrives?

Check the status of the RCD before turning on the system to confirm or eliminate the above possibility. Also worth checking is that your Sparkie hasn't connected an output earth to the Thor DRM95 - this is not recommended if it is being supplied by an RCD. Quote: " IF YOU ARE USING AN RCD YOU CANNOT USE DRM95 INTERNAL EARTH YOU MUST USE THE MAIN EARTH BAR CONNECTION THEN THE INTERNAL CONNECTION ON DRM95 IS “N.C.” NOT CONNECTED"

With everything connected up, does unplugging the HDMI lead from the TV stop the noise? Something else you can try if the TV has the usual IEC C7 (figure 8) connection, is to reverse the mains polarity by rotating the IEC plug by 180 degrees in the inlet socket. This sometimes makes an improvement on unearthed double insulated devices. Another test would be to try a screened power cord to the TV - use a C14 to C7 adapter on the end of an existing screened IEC power cord if there is sufficient clearance at the TV inlet socket. Best of luck and make sure all your power cords are well separated from signal leads where possible.

I'd recommend comparing the KLEI cable "as is" against your DIY Acrolink before committing to fitting $200+ worth of Furutech connectors. You may even be able to determine what cable KLEI use as it's required to have the manufacturer's name and specifications printed or embossed on it to be compliant with AU/NZS 3191 (the Standard for flexible mains cords).

That would make for one expensive cable! You could buy the Furutech connectors and any top-of-the-line bulk cable to DIY a lead for half the price and arguably twice the quality.

Try an air-con installation or industrial lagging/insulation company. I sourced some years ago that came with a 15mm foam lining on one side covered by metal foil. Often used in acoustic isolation enclosures for noisy pumps, generators, etc. Excellent for constrained layer damping.

LOL... Tell your mates that they're made out of an exotic alloy that dampens cable resonance, cancels back EMF wave propagation, etc and then sell them at a 1000% markup - less 20% "mate's rates" discount of course! Fark... I've almost convinced myself I should try some!

Spotted these Australian made cables advertised on the Aussie Audio Mart recently. Has anyone tried them yet and are they really worth the extravagent prices advertised? https://siasfodna.com/collections/all They also have a couple of power cables on offer with obviously non-compliant 3-pin plugs and very suspect cable construction. Don't these manufacturer's research their legal obligations before offering this sort of dodgy product to the market? Somehow I don't think EnergySafe would consider the "SMD patent pending Technology" of their cable construction as excusing them from having to comply with AU/NZS 3112 and 3191 requirements.

My favorite VU meter...

That's just common SY type cable as manufactured by LAPP, Belden, etc and is readily available off the shelf in Aus and NZ. Better to use the CY type cable that has a tinned copper braid shield rather than the SY steel braid.

Yes Paul, "they must be OK" because as a reseller of the KLEi Gpower2 cables you have a duty of care to ensure they are safe and legal to sell and will therefore be able to provide a copy of the applicable Certificates of Compliance to your customers as you are legally required to do if requested. Would you care to quote the relevant certificate numbers so as to end this uncertainty and debate. Audioquest do not use these plugs ex factory - all their power cables up to the NRG-10 have molded plugs and connectors. The remaining three models are their top-of-the-line and certainly don't have these budget Chinese plugs fitted.

I would be asking the seller whether those Chinese made mains connectors are certified for use in Australia before handing over any money. Domestic 3 pin mains plugs are deemed High Risk Articles and have to be certified to AU/NZS 3112 before they can be legally sold..

Yes those are the ones. The AU/NZ plug is the first on the left at the bottom of your linked page. The internal cable clamp is what those two screws in the side of the cover shell are for - same as most other audio power plugs.

I've seen them advertised with an Australian style plug as per below... made in China. The only AU/NZ certified audiophile mains plug I've found on the ERAC database is the Furutech. Not a very expensive plug and connector for a $500 + power cable...

KLEI's plug looks to be identical to the one Whatmough were selling and then withdrew from sale - presumably because it was not certified and legal to use in AUS/NZ. Can anyone confirm if this is the case or is it now certified?

Excellent comparative test and review, thanks for the effort and for posting your observations.