DT999

I had a problem with my Neo mk1, not exactly the same as you as mine would just randomly stop in the middle of playing a record. I contacted Synergy Audio, who told me there is an issue with some units where the speed control switch can oxidise over time - possibly could be causing your issue? I had my switches changed and haven't had a problem since then. Derek

I contacted Synergy Audio and have to say they were extremely helpful. I spoke with their service area and explained my issue. They actually thought it is unlikely to be the lightening that caused the issue but that it was a coincidence. Apparently this is a known issue, where the speed control switch can oxidise. It may even still be covered by the lifetime warranty which if found to be the case is a bonus. They opened a repair job for me while I was on the phone and gave me the job number, now I just have to send the unit in. I will see how long the repair takes and what it might cost, but so far I have been impressed by Synergy Audio - thanks gibbo9000 for the contact details.

Thanks, I will contact Synergy for advice, unfortunately yes it is out of warranty

Looking for some guidance from those with more knowledge.... We had a big thunder storm today, with a lightening strike right over the house that caused a short (20 - 30 seconds) power outage. I wasn't doing any listening and my system was turned off, although main power to the PSU was on. This afternoon while listening to a record, the TT just slowed to a stop. I raised the arm, and tried turning on and off and it seemed OK but then it did the same again a short while later. Tried a third power on/off and switching 33/45 a few times but it sounded as though it was running slow before stopping again. So - has the lightening damaged the PSU? If so does it mean getting a new one or can they be serviced or repaired and is it worth it? If I do need a new one, are there any better alternatives to the Neo? Thanks Derek

New release just arrived

He is playing a solo acoustic gig the following night on 10th March at Queenscliff Town Hall as well.

Best shot I could get of the f31 code

Thanks. I might get out my usb microscope later and see if I can get a decent picture of the f31 code

Hey Kirk The f31 definitely looks like a 1 on the second line, it is quite clear and looks identical to the 1 in the f31 code. On the f32, it looks to also be 1 after the C.

I can't get a decent photo with my tablet, but using a magnifying glass I can see he Mullard marked f31 B1D, the Daystrom is f32 B2C

I have a couple of GZ34/5AR4 rectifier tubes; I believe one is a 'Fat Base' Mullard from around 1959? the second a Daystrom branded (I believe - branding is very smudged) Mullard from about 1962? Can anyone confirm if this is correct?

Yes, comes with power pack, I just didn't photograph it!

Further information: Brand new and in box; RRP is $220. I bought 2 of these but only need 1 so this is surplus to requirements. Postage included in price.

Further information: Item is in very good condition; shipping included in original packaging

I asked for some advice on here some time back about integrating subwoofer with my 2 channel system, and someone pointed me in the direction of DSPeaker Anti-Mode 8033. It is basically an automatic DSP for in room integration for a sub connected to your Amp, you can then set the cross over and level of a sub to match better with your mains. Some subs, specifically the SVS Pro series have built in DSP as well.

I've only just come across this thread, which now has me concerned as I had an amp dropped off for repair just last week! I started another thread a couple of weeks ago about my valve pre amp which was damaged in a power outage, and following advice I went to the Australian distributors website which had links to their repair center - being Clarke Audio. Following phone calls I arranged drop off of the amp for inspection. Now there has been Easter weekend in between so not expecting much to have been done yet but I will be tracking the time this takes and any communication closely. In the ,mean time I've got to try and find another temporary amp for my system - I've been without music for nearly 2 weeks and certainly can not wait months for my main amps return.

Thanks for all replies. I am not willing to risk further damage, it's not a cheap amp so better safe than sorry. I will contact distributor tomorrow for advice on suitable tech. Cheers Derek

Thanks, I will contact the distributor repair centre and see what they advise, might need to send it in for inspection just to be sure.

Thanks Bob. I am presuming the issue was caused by a power surge in the grid which knocked the whole street out for 20-30 seconds. It happened again about 15 minutes later for about a minute and then a third time a bit later with power out for half an hour. There was certainly something going on with supply, so I am guessing the first spike was the cause as when power came back on that was when there was smoke. The fuse glass does look a bit blackened inside near, I was wondering if that would cause the smoke I saw? It was coming out of the case in exactly the same place as the fuse, and I can't see any other burn indications or damage inside the amp. Is there anything else I should check? Is it worth getting a fuse and powering up to see what happens or could that cause more damage, I really don't know.

Looking up specifications it looks like a 1.5A 250V slow blow fuse that I need

OK, I am hoping this might not be as bad as I feared. Firstly I confirmed that the unit is designed for 240v, it is clearly labled on rear. I have taken the cover off and can see no obvious signs of damage or burning, but I did notice a fuse inside next to the power inlet which is the area where the smoked came from. Initial examination of the fuse looked as though it hadn't blown, but under magnification it looks as though the fuse has a solid metal rod with fuse wire wrapped around its length, and this certainly looks melted. So much so it appears like small solder blobs inside the glass tube. So I am hoping the fuse did its job and this might be the only problem? Does anyone have any other thoughts? Thanks Derek

Thanks. I will try and have a look tomorrow and post a few pics of what I find.

I can certainly take cover off as I've done that to change tubes but I'm not really sure what I would be looking for. I will contact the power company, but I don't hold out much hope having read their policy on reimbursing damage, but will try. Might also have a look at my home insurance, but ideally I need to get it checked. It seems as though the distributor Pops110 mentioned are in Melbourne and seem to have a repair centre so I will check with them after Easter.

Thor A12BF Smart Board 8, nothing else on the board blew and neighbours had no issues as far as I know

Thanks Chris, I wasn't aware of the need for a step down transformer! I will certainly contact Modwright for advice