Speaker Maintenance?

[Drizt]

Hi Guys,

Not sure on what the suggested general maintenance for speakers is, but when I asked Greg he said to simply check the tighteness of bolts occasionally. So off I went to the hardware store to get some allen keys. Once I got there I didn't know if they were metric or imperial so I just bought both (gotta build up that tool collection ). Upon getting home I realised I didn't know how tight they needed to be . So another email was sent to Greg and he replied with "firm but don't strain". Damn it, im an engineer, I like concrete discrete figures that I can measure and confirm.

Anyways,

With very sweaty hands (I'm known to break things even when I have the best intentions) I had a go at tightening the bolts. I was so wimpy I even asked Jen for a second opinion on the tightness of the bolts . In the end we ended up tightening them between 1/8 of a rotation to a little over 1/4 of a rotation.

After emailing Greg back on my findings I also asked him if I ran the risk of breaking anything to which he replied "you can strip them if they are too tight or break the driver". Yikes.

Just wondering if anyone else has played with such things? Do you have any stories of joy or woe?

ps. I think I also remember reading that since my speakers are made from real wood veneer that I need to do something to keep them in good nic, but thats for another time.

Cheers

Drizt

[Guest alebonau]

~Damn it, im an engineer, I like concrete discrete figures that I can measure and confirm.

~

Cheers

Drizt

[/b]

hehe suprised you didnt end up picking up a torque wrench then !

I've done it so with the fingers on end of allen key its as tight as possible.

[Drizt]

hehe suprised you didnt end up picking up a torque wrench then ![/b]

Hehe, possibly should have... hmmmmm, might go back and get one

I've done it so with the fingers on end of allen key its as tight as possible. [/b]

So using the full leverage of the allen key? As tight as possible as in going red in the face, white knuckles?

I was very gentle.

[Guest alebonau]

Hehe, possibly should have... hmmmmm, might go back and get one

So using the full leverage of the allen key? As tight as possible as in going red in the face, white knuckles?

I was very gentle.

[/b]

hehe no just three fingers tip at the very end of the allen key. Probably depends on the size of screws used but you should find the allen key itself bending/flexing rather than being able to put any more force into it.

[Leon]

Also check the terminals at the back, make sure they are tight and clean the contacts. Depending on how you have them wired, check any bare wire for corrosion and strip a bit back or if spades / bananas give them a clean with some contact cleaner, not water of course! Also make sure the spikes if fitted are still firm and don't wobble. Check for dust build up on the cones and any ports but be caeful not to damagae any fragile surfaces when cleaning, a very fine brush or cloth can help.

Screws can become loose over time either due to vibration or the wood becoming compressed. A small tighten is usually all that is needed, no power tools!

[norpus]

Hehe, possibly should have... hmmmmm, might go back and get one

So using the full leverage of the allen key? As tight as possible as in going red in the face, white knuckles?

I was very gentle.

[/b]

Drizt, just give them a nice dust and you'll be OK

Oh and don't forget to get the torque settings in in-lbs as well as Nm from Greg - I know you <strike>well</strike> will

[JA]

Hi Guys,

Not sure on what the suggested general maintenance for speakers is, [/b]

.........

Hello Drizt,

Sounds like you were trying to be a human torque wrench.

How you treat the real wood veneer depends on the finish that is on them- there I would take the manufacturer's advice. For example good old Mr Sheen may look great-and is on some surfaces, but french polishers hate it because, it is more difficult to rework the finish should this ever be neccessary.

Naturally oiled timber veneer is best treated with something like Scandinavian Oil, but the manufacturer again is the best to ask as sometimes there is a protective lacquer coat on the timber.

Other maintenance: after many years of service you might remove a cone driver and inspect for any sag in the rear suspension and freedom of motion. Special attention should be paid to subwoofers as these experience more excursion than others and are more likely to be affected due to extra heat in around the voice coil. Even remove and remount the driver upside down to even out any small tendency for the rear suspension & front suspension to take on a permanent set in one direction- if you feel so inclined.

Electrostatics- Clean the dust off- careful high voltages are involved and the diaphram is delicate. Get them internally cleaned professionally if in doubt.

Thats all I can think of for now.

Best

JA

[Drizt]

Also check the terminals at the back, make sure they are tight and clean the contacts. Depending on how you have them wired, check any bare wire for corrosion and strip a bit back or if spades / bananas give them a clean with some contact cleaner, not water of course! Also make sure the spikes if fitted are still firm and don't wobble. Check for dust build up on the cones and any ports but be caeful not to damagae any fragile surfaces when cleaning, a very fine brush or cloth can help.

Screws can become loose over time either due to vibration or the wood becoming compressed. A small tighten is usually all that is needed, no power tools! [/b]

Thanks Al, Leon, JA and Norpus (even for the humour ).

Driver screws tightened - Check

Banana are clean - Check

Spikes are firm and theres no wobbling - Check

Cleaning drivers - To afraid to do that. Hell I leave my speaker grill on all the time so that people don't put their fingers all over the drivers (pet hate of mine).

[Mr_Gimlet]

So using the full leverage of the allen key? As tight as possible as in going red in the face, white knuckles?

I was very gentle.

[/b]

I do this every couple of months or so, more often when I'm running something in. All you are doing is putting it back to where it was - this is worth rememebring before you get the torque wrench out.

1. Strength - I would say lever tight, so if you push the allan key with your palm it won't move any more. All you are doing is making sue the bracing stuff is fully in contact.

2. Ordering - you don't want to offbalance the cones. First, do one bolt to finger tightness ie just take up any slack. Then work round the bolts one by one and do the same. Then go round and tighten a bit more. (Strictly, you should go to the opposite bolt and then go back to orginal + 1)

You can easily tell if they have loosened, they will be very loose and it will be easy to tighten them.

[Drizt]

I do this every couple of months or so, more often when I'm running something in. All you are doing is putting it back to where it was - this is worth rememebring before you get the torque wrench out.

1. Strength - I would say lever tight, so if you push the allan key with your palm it won't move any more. All you are doing is making sue the bracing stuff is fully in contact.

2. Ordering - you don't want to offbalance the cones. First, do one bolt to finger tightness ie just take up any slack. Then work round the bolts one by one and do the same. Then go round and tighten a bit more. (Strictly, you should go to the opposite bolt and then go back to orginal + 1)

You can easily tell if they have loosened, they will be very loose and it will be easy to tighten them. [/b]

Hmm, I think I did that (like doing up wheel nuts on a car), but I can't remember if I did... opps.

Thanks for the info.

[Mr_Gimlet]

Oh, and pretty much any veneer takes a very nice furniture polish. I recommend one based on beeswax as it gives a lovely shine. Mr Sheen is fine for the odd clean-up but a good deep furniture polished is great. The smell is great too.

[Guest alebonau]

in regards veneers if theyve had a clear sheen/satin finish put over them any of these furniture polishes are a waste of time. you might as well use the lieks of mr sheen on it. just follow the precautionary instructions ofcourse and test in a small out of the way area to make sure its nto going ot do any damage. If its a wood finish that will accept oils be carefull as that can alter the colour look of it as well - eg can end up lookign darker than the original finish, plus a bit patchy if your not carefull in application.

[Tony M]

This thread is scary. Many times I've given something "just that little bit extra to make sure it's really tight" and then feel it give :blush: Then it has often been a case of making new holes and starting from scratch.

I guess it helps to know if the screws are simply screws into wood.....or bolts into those captive nuts with the spikes on them to secure them to the wood at the back, which seems to me to be a better way to go for a really tight seal and much less risk of over-tightening. I had a pair of Duntech speakers at one stage and they used these....called T-bolts I think.

Wonder why they're not more widely used and if there's any merit in substituting them for the standard screws. Possible speaker improvement?

[Drizt]

This thread is scary. Many times I've given something "just that little bit extra to make sure it's really tight" and then feel it give :blush: Then it has often been a case of making new holes and starting from scratch.

I guess it helps to know if the screws are simply screws into wood.....or bolts into those captive nuts with the spikes on them to secure them to the wood at the back, which seems to me to be a better way to go for a really tight seal and much less risk of over-tightening. I had a pair of Duntech speakers at one stage and they used these....called T-bolts I think.

Wonder why they're not more widely used and if there's any merit in substituting them for the standard screws. Possible speaker improvement? [/b]

I agree Tonym. It would be the best idea to have such a set up. Not sure how many do though, just sent Greg an email now to find out what method he uses.

[JA]

I guess it helps to know if the screws are simply screws into wood.....or bolts into those captive nuts with the spikes on them to secure them to the wood at the back, which seems to me to be a better way to go for a really tight seal and much less risk of over-tightening. I had a pair of Duntech speakers at one stage and they used these....called T-bolts I think.[/b]

Hello Tony,

Yes I would agree T-Nuts are excellent- particularly for heavier drivers like subwoofers and since there is such little distance between the screw holes and the edge of the baffle cut-out. The T-nuts can also be glued/Aradited in. Also a better seal can be achieved with foam tape or mastic (blu-tak?) on the underside of the driver mounting flange. That way not so much reliance is placed on the screws being ultra-tight.

Best

JA

[Guest alebonau]

Hello Tony,

Yes I would agree T-Nuts are excellent- particularly for heavier drivers like subwoofers and since there is such little distance between the screw holes and the edge of the baffle cut-out. The T-nuts can also be glued/Aradited in. Also a better seal can be achieved with foam tape or mastic (blu-tak?) on the underside of the driver mounting flange. That way not so much reliance is placed on the screws being ultra-tight.

Best

JA

[/b]

yes my missions use the foam tape gasket on their bass/mid range drivers. have seen some use a rubber gasket as well. Not sure if my mains use T bolts but have a threaded nut set in the wood that the speaker screws are tighted up into.

[JA]

yes my missions use the foam tape gasket on their bass/mid range drivers. have seen some use a rubber gasket as well. Not sure if my mains use T bolts but have a threaded nut set in the wood that the speaker screws are tighted up into.

[/b]

Hello Al,

Threaded nuts, particularly those with aggressive/deep teeth which bite into the baffle are very close if not the equal of T-Nuts. T-Nuts have the advantage that they resist torsion better than screw in inserts. That said, if they are glued in there would probably be no practical advantage of one over the other.

Best

JA

[ozcal]

Hello Al,

Threaded nuts, particularly those with agrressive/deep teeth which bite into the baffle are very close if not the equal of T-Nuts. T-Nuts have the advantage that they resist torsion better than screw in inserts. That said, if they are glued in there would probably be no practical advantage of one over the other.

Best

JA

[/b]

Recommendations vary from speaker to speaker but Linn used to recommend tightening hex heads till finger tight using the long end of the key inserted into the hex bolt and then an eighth of a turn with the short end inserted , or was that the arm bolts for the Ekos on an Lp12 armboard ? :biggrin: Can't remember now!.

My favourite story was from years ago in sunny Glasgow when one sales person ,well known for being a bit of a drongo ,insisted on showing a customer what a difference tightening the drive unit bolts made to the sound of a rather expensive small speaker.Anyway there was a loud cracking sound and a very broken Celestion speaker afterwards.Just so you know I was the customer , not the salesman in question :biggrin: .

Gordon

[JA]

Anyway there was a loud cracking sound and a very broken Celestion speaker afterwards.Just so you know I was the customer , not the salesman in question :biggrin: .

Gordon

[/b]

Hello Gordon,

One embarrassed Glaswegian I'll bet.

My favourite (non-audio sorry) is one of a friend who called me one sunday afternoon in panic, because he had snapped his sparkplug extraction tool and it was embedded and jammed at the bottom of a very deep spark plug recess on his Peugeot 504? . Several days and many $ later it was fixed after removal of the cylinder head at his local dealer.

Sometimes you have got to know when to stop pushing.

Best

JA

[Grumpy]

I haven't touched my Vafs except for a dusting and a light vacuum, but my previous speakers, Corals , a kit speaker from the 70s, I had to re-tighten the floor spikes every 2 months or so and I checked the banana plugs constantly. For some reason the 12" woofers of these old speakers would loosen every thing that could be loosened.

[Drizt]

I agree Tonym. It would be the best idea to have such a set up. Not sure how many do though, just sent Greg an email now to find out what method he uses.

[/b]

It seems that Greg does use T bolts on his speakers...

click here for image

Cheers.

[Kevin]

.........

Electrostatics- Clean the dust off- careful high voltages are involved and the diaphram is delicate. Get them internally cleaned professionally if in doubt.

[/b]

But low amperage- like next to nothing. It is pointless trying to clean an electrostatic screen unless it has been turned off for some time, the electrostatic forces allowed to dissapate ? 24 hrs and then a gentle clean. Often all that is needed to transform a bad sounding screen into a good one.

Kevin

[ozcal]

Hello Gordon,

One embarrassed Glaswegian I'll bet.

My favourite (non-audio sorry) is one of a friend who called me one sunday afternoon in panic, because he had snapped his sparkplug extraction tool and it was embedded and jammed at the bottom of a very deep spark plug recess on his Peugeot 504? . Several days and many $ later it was fixed after removal of the cylinder head at his local dealer.

Sometimes you have got to know when to stop pushing.

Best

JA

[/b]

Just reminded me of another hi-fi accident and it was me this time :biggrin: .I went to work for the same store that had eventually gotten rid of the speaker wrecker.Being a hi-end store we didn't have a lot of floor traffic and so the manager suggested I spend as much time as possible dragging equipment into the dem room and getting as much experience as possible with the likes of Audio Research , Krell , Musical Fidelity etc etc. I picked up a Krell KSA 50 MK2 buy it's front handles and just as I was about to turn to go to the dem room someone called my name and given the weight of the amp I turned my whole body to look in the direction of the caller.The amp hit the first speaker in a row of 4 and all four speakers tumbled off their stands to the ,fortunately, carpeted floor.Total value of speakers knocked over was about five thousand pounds at retail in the 80's.There was a stunned silence in the shop and I was imagining having to work for many years for next to no money , a real sphincter loosening moment :biggrin: .Thank God for well built speakers , apart from a small scratch on a Gale 402 there was no damage, however new underpants were immediately required in a number of cases.All this on my first day.

Gordon

[Aslan]

The only maintenance I ever do is dust with a damp cloth (woofer cones included), and check the cable for tightness. All my drivers are caulked in to the baffle as well as screwed - cant come loose - in fact god forbid I ever need to replace a driver, it would be hell to get them out.

[Drizt]

in regards veneers if theyve had a clear sheen/satin finish put over them any of these furniture polishes are a waste of time. you might as well use the lieks of mr sheen on it. just follow the precautionary instructions ofcourse and test in a small out of the way area to make sure its nto going ot do any damage. If its a wood finish that will accept oils be carefull as that can alter the colour look of it as well - eg can end up lookign darker than the original finish, plus a bit patchy if your not carefull in application. [/b]

Greg said the following in regards to caring for the wood veneer finish.

"<span style="font-family:Arial"> Mr Sheen builds up a silicon layer, fine if you keep using it, but you can't apply other things over it. Marveer makes them look fantastic.</span>"

I did a google for Marveer and Marteako and didn't find much.. (got to practise my google-foo i guess). Anyone know if these still exist, and where to get them from?</span>

<span style="font-family:Arial">