Acoustic board material

[Jake]

I'm in need of some acoustic board material to line some existing walls. Does anyone have any recommendations?

I see Gyprock make one called Soundchek (in 10mm or 13mm thickness), which I should be able to get locally. But is there anything else that stands out as being particularly good?

I just want it for acoustic insulation and it will be going in the back of inbuilt wardrobes and won't be seen, but I don't want to take up too much space of course.

Cheers,

Jake

[Guest Muon]

I'm unsure on boards, but Green Glue may be worth checking out as an added treatment on the job

http://www.ultrafonic.com.au/Sound%20Proofing.htm

[Nigel]

Jake,

this makes intersting reading ...http://www.greengluecompany.com/studiosAndHomeTheaters.php

[Jake]

Thanks guys! I saw that stuff on New Inventors. Will look into it.

[Guest]

Hi Jake

Andrew Steel is a forum member he might be able to help http://www.ultrafonic.com.au/Contact.htm .He's very helpful .

Andrew Steel

M.A.A.S.

M.A.E.S.

Ultrafonic Pty Ltd

ph: 61 7 3103 0591

fax: 61 7 3630 0709

web: www.ultrafonic.com.au

Ultrafonic Address on Google Maps

Cheers

[Jake]

Thanks Mal.

So, from what I understand now reading about this green stuff, is it will do a much better job than acoustic board.

My plan then is to get a case of the stuff, apply it to a sheet of standard gyprock material and screw that to the existing wall.

The strange thing though is their graphs showing the acoustic properties of standard material (including acoustic board) indicate that the acoustic board is no better than normal drywall. Hhmmm...

Anyway, I'm game, I'll give it a shot.

Cheers,

Jake

[Guest]

Hi Jake

CLD construction ,only use the screws to hold the sheet being glued by the GGlue after the glue has dried remove the screws .This way the 2 boards are seperate then you will have beter isolation .

Cheers

mal

[Jake]

Hi Jake

CLD construction ,only use the screws to hold the sheet being glued by the GGlue after the glue has dried remove the screws .This way the 2 boards are seperate then you will have beter isolation .

Cheers

mal

Smart thinking Mal! Thanks.

[rob323]

Jake, use mass to stop low frequencies (eg ply etc). Air gaps between the panels are great for the higher frequencies.

[Guest Peter the Greek]

waste of money.......www.soundproofingcompany.com for all things you need to know about the topic

2 layers of 16mm fire rated board craps all over it - with green glue of course.......not so great from an acoustics perspective though as stiff walls = bad news.......but isolation is important for other factors, you can treat room problems, solving isolation/soundproofing issues is much harder

oh and you dont want air graps between boards, it creates a thing called the triple leaf effect, basically you create an amplifier by doing this

[Jake]

waste of money.......

What exactly?

[rob323]

oh and you dont want air graps between boards, it creates a thing called the triple leaf effect

I haven't heard of this before, what is it?

[Guest Peter the Greek]

Soundchek is a waste of money, also, as an aside, it uses a poor quality paper, so finishes poorly (from what I understand/am told by plaster guys). Total pain to cut as well, all in all its rubbish (for the price) that said two layers can cost a lot of money in labour if you're not doing DIY

rob - have a read of this:

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/library/articles/triple_leaf_effect/

[rob323]

So glue the ply hard to the gyprock then Jake.

Meanwhile I'll send off letters to numerous recording studios explaining why their very expensive, sloped, triple glazed windows designed by Acoustic Engineers should be ripped out and replaced with double glazed ones at a fraction of the cost. And what do you know, I can help them out with a quote at the same time seeing as we still have their jobs on file at work.:nana

[Guest Peter the Greek]

Isn't tripple glazed just 3 laminated layers? in that case its good as its more mass. Also glazing generally files the cavity with gas (argon?) so in that instance the same effect might not apply

That said I wouldn't want to categorically state that the same properties apply for glass as it does drywall.

[rob323]

Isn't tripple glazed just 3 laminated layers?

Triple glazing is 3 seperate panes of glass, seperated by 2 air gaps. The individual panes of glass may be "laminated" glass though.

Also glazing generally files the cavity with gas (argon?) so in that instance the same effect might not apply

Argon is only sometimes used in insulated glass unit (two panes of glass sealed together, usually with an air gap of 12mm or less) as it reduces heat transmission through the glass unit. I reckon 99% of the insulated glass units being sold to the residential market, being labelled for acoustic purposes, would just have normal air inside them. But that being said, glass is crap for stopping low frequencies anyway unless you start using thick monolithic glass, and then laminating it to thinner panes of glass or polycarbonate to help dampen resonances and higher frequencies, but then it starts to get ridiculously expensive.

[Gee Emm]

have you considered canite?

Panelling made from cane fibre eg like dense pin-board material.

Is dense and fibrous.

[shogun2]

When constructing my recording studio we used a double wall construction, two sets of studs staggered, covered with 16mm Gyprock and laminated with a 12mm Caneite for the inner wall. The outer wall was two layers of 16mm Gypprock. Then filled the cavity with high density Rockwool. The Caneite acts as a dampener to the Gyprock. This construction provided the isolation. Separate absorption panels were hung on the inner walls. Unfortunately I don't have any actual STI figures for the combination.

[Guest Peter the Greek]

Then filled the cavity with high density Rockwool.

I'd diagree with that statement, you dont want high denisty insulation in a sealed space. All you want it something to stop the cavity acting like a drum, which any old regular insulation will do fine. Refer:

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/library/articles/elements_of_room_construction/

[JCR33]

With this method, where has the energy gone or the sound/ vibration remains inside the room trapped?

I am about to build a room inside a room. I was warned not to build a room that is too "damped" as the low frequencies are likely to stay inside the room and causing serious resonances. A room that "breathes" is better than "close" otherwise lots of basstraps will be needed.

[Guest Peter the Greek]

That is correct, but it depends what you want to acheive - both are mutually exclusive:

1. A damped, heavy, isolated wall will give good soundproofing - all number of benefits, not just letting sound out or in

2. A damped, heavy, isolated wall will NOT act as a "bass trap" - a regular studd/single gyprock wall will as it is flexible

So you cant acheive both with just the method of wall construction alone, but you can treat the room to fix modal/resonance issues, but you cant treat a room to fix soundproofing. So IMHO, build for soundproofing and worry about the acoustic issues later.

Idealing you'd build a room within a room, leave about 1 metre (or even 1ft would do) and then build another room that is a single wall

Whats this? thats tripple leaf isn't it? well yes, but its different to that discussed above - totally impractical though, unless you've got acres of real estate

[Jake]

I have decided to go with the Green Glue between a sheet of soundchek and the existing gyprock wall cladding. This will do for my purposes.

I emailed the company above and got a price for a case which seemed ok, but when I asked for a half a case they responded today by saying that it is now 50% dearer again for each tube! I'm sorry but at $44 a tube for 6 ($264) as against $351 for 12 I think I'm being taken to the cleaners.

And having just got home from work I am in no mood for bullshit like this.

Does anyone know where else I can buy this stuff?

Cheers,

Jake

[Guest Peter the Greek]

You can get it direct from the US, but freight is Very Expensive.....like stupid, more than the cost of the actual stuff.....you could try Acoustic Vision in Melbourne....not sure if they keep it in stock though. Seriously, unless you've purchased the soundchek already dont do it....also I dont know how much benefit you'll get without decoupling the walls - for the extra cost of the soundchek I'd be using normal, ripping off the existing stuff and putting whisper clips in and forgo the green glue.....better result IMO

[lamtran]

I have soundcheck plaster on all walls and ceiling in my theatre room. I have solid double doors as well. I find the Soundcheck does a decent job at not letting too much sound out of the room. The only problem I have is that the double doors do let a lot of sound into the rest of the house. What is the best way to make the doors more soundproof? I can't seal underneath the door as I need to leave a small gap for the ducted aircon to circulate. Would putting some accoustic board attached to the doors with green glue make an difference to sound leaking?

[Guest Peter the Greek]

lamtran - you need to seel the door - speak with your hvac contractor re letting air flow in - hvac is a serious issue for soundproofing and can undermine a perfectly built room if not done correctly