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Posted

You just need a nice timber veneer on the front, to pretty it up a bit.

 

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Actually really like that, nice work. I can get all sorts of veneers from a Guy locally that cuts and exports it for instrument making although there is a plan to have matching fronts with my other Holton, the 6 channel. Will get around to fitting that new front some time this week.

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Big job is on today, going to move all that gear to position a 400 liter sealed sub enclosure with pair of 18's  :) See how they go. Big problem though, the subs and box weighs 160Kg, Put the box up first then fit the drivers is the plan.

Posted

A couple shots of the rebuild of my push-pull 300B/6B4G amp. The power supply is going external which will free up space for more chokes and a separate supply for the input stage.

Top centre is the input stage which is from Allen Wright's PP2C design using cascode differential 6H30s.

Below that is the constant current sources for the inputs.

To the left is the voltage regulator, an "SSHV" designed by Salas of DIYAudio.

Between the output tube sockets is a little bias balance circuit to allow for precise matching of the plate currents.

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  • Like 3
Posted

These very efficient Tannoys driven by 1.5W fi amps. Impressive.

Wow, chunky speakers!

I like

:love

Posted

Wow, chunky speakers!

I like

:love

They look nice but will not ripple the carpet or plaster on a big bass transient watching Terminator or something  :P

Posted

They look nice but will not ripple the carpet or plaster on a big bass transient watching Terminator or something  :P

Was purely referring to the looks of course.

Have no idea how they sound.

:)

Posted

A couple shots of the rebuild of my push-pull 300B/6B4G amp. The power supply is going external which will free up space for more chokes and a separate supply for the input stage.

Top centre is the input stage which is from Allen Wright's PP2C design using cascode differential 6H30s.

Below that is the constant current sources for the inputs.

To the left is the voltage regulator, an "SSHV" designed by Salas of DIYAudio.

Between the output tube sockets is a little bias balance circuit to allow for precise matching of the plate currents.

Sweet!

 

Sounds like a nice rebuild, but I'm a tad biased in that i love the 6H30s :)

Posted (edited)

I may have posted elsewhere that I am building some big (170ltr) speakers based around the Beyma 15" high efficiency concentric drivers. The Boxes and being built by my amp and woodwork buddy Don. Today I added the bitumanised Al tape and Dacron. You can see the large rear firing ports. There is diagonal side and back bracing and a hollow box brace 3/4 the way down. The drivers are 99db efficient.

 

Should these drivers not produce good bass I intend to add a 12" driver in the bottom section and seal it off from the rest of the box. The box brace is there to help with the seal and brace the box.

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Edited by mwhouston
  • Like 2
Posted

Sweet!

 

Sounds like a nice rebuild, but I'm a tad biased in that i love the 6H30s :)

Yes, they make great driver or pre-amp output valve. Can push a Mack truck up a steep hil!

Posted (edited)

To go with my new amp, a new speaker cable was made up today for high current. Neutrix Speakon connectors.

Suitably impressive are the Maelstrom X 18's with 350w per channel, quite efficient with fairly well flat response to 10Hz with room gain (400 liter enclosure helps) err chest pumping, where a rumble filter takes over as the big rig runs vinyl only at the mo.

Bit of a tidy up to do, otherwise completed.

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Edited by Guest

Posted (edited)

@@125dBmonster the woofers will keep the amps cool.

Hi Mark, yea, without the 10Hz rumble filter they sure would, they still wobble about a little, which adds flavor. Added a new realm to the lowest octave heard here in stunning detail, intergrated perfectly with the Eminence 18's and PSE144.

 

This is a totally fun twin sealed enclosure, just superb.  :thumb:

Edited by Guest
Posted (edited)

Hi Mark, yea, without the 10Hz rumble filter they sure would, they still wobble about a little, which adds flavor. Added a new realm to the lowest octave heard here in stunning detail, intergrated perfectly with the Eminence 18's and PSE144.

This is a totally fun twin sealed enclosure, just superb. :thumb:

Sealed? Shy?

That should have read "sealed"? "Why"?

Bloody Apple auto-correct and get it wrong.

Edited by mwhouston
Posted (edited)

Don't like ported enclosures, made quite a few.]

 

This enclosure may be 150 Kg and huge but punches out the tightest cleanest lowest bass I have ever heard, simply stunned worth the ruptured disk and squashed spine.

 

Set up, Crossover, 48dB per octave LRiley, Bandpass, 10Hz/38Hz, also introduced a low shelf +6dB from 30Hz (Hi Q, centered at 20Hz) down to flatten the measured response to 10Hz. :thumb:

Edited by Guest
Posted

Don't like ported enclosures, made quite a few.]

 

This enclosure may be 150 Kg and huge but punches out the tightest cleanest lowest bass I have ever heard, simply stunned worth the ruptured disk and squashed spine.

 

Set up, Crossover, 48dB per octave LRiley, Bandpass, 10Hz/38Hz, also introduced a low shelf +6dB from 30Hz down to flatten the measured response to 10Hz. :thumb:

Golly.

Posted

Golly.

That is a way to describe it, I'm just stunned and drooling, hearing new things in recordings again.

Posted

It's a mess in there as the sub was installed today.

You Guy's would have a fairly good idea what it sounds like though and would see through the mess

 

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Posted

Here is another grand opportunity to give me a thorougher stoning. Once more I read where spikes or cones really do what most people think they do. Cones on TTs are meant to siphon away resonances in the TT. Some say they couple vibrations from what the cones sit on back into the TT. The comment was made "coupling or isolation" and the reviewer said he favored isolation. Think about cones and pikes and where they are used and what you are trying to achieve.

 

Please, large stones only.

Posted (edited)

Here is another grand opportunity to give me a thorougher stoning. Once more I read where spikes or cones really do what most people think they do. Cones on TTs are meant to siphon away resonances in the TT. Some say they couple vibrations from what the cones sit on back into the TT. The comment was made "coupling or isolation" and the reviewer said he favored isolation. Think about cones and pikes and where they are used and what you are trying to achieve.

 

Please, large stones only.

 

Mark, I don't understand whether you have a recommendation buried in there somewhere?  :)

Edited by Newman
  • Like 1

Posted (edited)

Mark, I don't understand whether you have a recommendation buried in there somewhere? :)

OK I understand. I'm moving away from spikes and cones.

Edited by mwhouston
  • Like 1
Posted

OK I understand. I'm moving away from spikes and cones.

I can understand about the spikes, but......

Posted (edited)

I bought a number of these Dick Smith speakers years ago - $50 a pair new. The woofer was OK but the Xover and Tweeter was rubbish. I replaced he tweeter with a ferro cooled Mylar and a 2nd order Xover with better caps. The speakers sounded good. Boxes were braced and I added more Dacron. The tweeters were a bit bright so I padded them down about 6db.

 

I sold a pair to a mate who loves his Ozzie rock loud. With a result he took out one whole box. Altronics sell the exact same driver and tweeters so I replaced all drivers.

 

Here's some picks.

 

Coming soon.

 

 

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Edited by mwhouston
  • Like 2
Posted

So close yet so far.  Many little jobs to complete, but trying to ditch the perfectionist attitude   ......  Right now, mostly just having fun annoying the neighbours.    Very short sounds (ie. ones which cover a very wide bandwidth of frequencies), like tuned percussion, door slamming, window smashing, etc .....   just sound so real, it is amazing.

 

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Back chamber - Size reduction? + stuffing or lining

Cone reinforcement? - I don't mind if the mass goes up a little

Wiring for the driver - I think I might just wire direct from the driver to the amp without terminals etc... it will be about a 3m run through the wall to the room where the electronics are.

 

Panel damping top - Currently use temporarily 1cm rigid cardboard, and another 3/4" plywood - need something more permanent.   I was thinking rubber or carpet, will need to experiment.   Also a minor worry is vibration transferring into the horn which will sit on top - but I am hatching a plan to hang them from the ceiling   ('dr evil' laugh)

 

Panel damping sides - fix on some wood+metal stiffners running down the sides   (on the outside, so once it's in the corner they don't be visible)

I really though I was going to need to make it thicker in places - but simple damping is giving excellent results.

 

 

 

... and then on to some outdoor measurements, before the weather turns....  beautiful warm and calm days here right now.   Perfect for speakr measuring.

  • Like 5

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