Guest Posted September 7, 2016 Posted September 7, 2016 18 hours ago, baMarek said: I may have something for you too I'm sure such a bass freak like you who appreciates (like me) multiple subs will love this clever software: http://andyc.diy-audio-engineering.org/mso/html/index.html Just remember, anything below 30Hz is damaging to your eyes (no kidding) and 8Hz is a resonance frequency of human body Cool Thanks, will give it a run, appreciated. I believe I will die of some other horrible debilitation before the 18's get me
baMarek Posted September 7, 2016 Posted September 7, 2016 (edited) 14 hours ago, davewantsmoore said: http://andyc.diy-audio-engineering.org/mso/html/measuring.html#holm Yep, I came across it last night too when reading the documentation. Looks like Holm is no longer a tool to rely on. I will do some tests in REW to see if time alignment works smoothly. I haven't tested Asio4all@Stevesie but now since I am using only one USB output it will be difficult to verify. Edited September 7, 2016 by baMarek
davewantsmoore Posted September 8, 2016 Posted September 8, 2016 11 hours ago, baMarek said: Looks like Holm is no longer a tool to rely on. The issue described isn't holms fault per se. AFAIUI understand it, REW has some way to work around the issue, by using a timing blip or something. I don't have any practical experience for USB mic for speaker design.... I've always used a dedicated audio interface (that has both in and out), and a 'loopback' for a time reference.
andyc56 Posted September 8, 2016 Posted September 8, 2016 Hi all, I'm the guy who wrote Multi-Sub Optimizer. I found a link to this thread in my web site stats, so I thought I'd come by and say "hello". If you have any questions about the software, just give a shout and I'll see what I can do to answer them. 4
Guest Posted September 8, 2016 Posted September 8, 2016 6 hours ago, andyc56 said: Hi all, I'm the guy who wrote Multi-Sub Optimizer. I found a link to this thread in my web site stats, so I thought I'd come by and say "hello". If you have any questions about the software, just give a shout and I'll see what I can do to answer them. Hello Andy Very interesting and brilliant read your work, thanks for posting.
baMarek Posted September 8, 2016 Posted September 8, 2016 (edited) 12 hours ago, andyc56 said: Hi all, I'm the guy who wrote Multi-Sub Optimizer. I found a link to this thread in my web site stats, so I thought I'd come by and say "hello". [emoji4] If you have any questions about the software, just give a shout and I'll see what I can do to answer them. Andy, big thank you for creating this software and for being so proactive in your support. I think MSO deserves a separate thread. Measuring impulse response too probably [emoji6] Edited September 8, 2016 by baMarek
baMarek Posted September 8, 2016 Posted September 8, 2016 Guys, I moved the discussion about MSO to a new thread here: http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/topic/111147-multi-sub-optimizer/
selectedgrub Posted September 10, 2016 Posted September 10, 2016 On 9/5/2016 at 8:22 PM, Nada said: Whatever turns you on. I suppose its practical for the Auckland weather? You must get hot wearing that.
mwhouston Posted October 23, 2016 Posted October 23, 2016 (edited) Yet another Mimic - SE for another SNA member. You may question the use of MKT caps. What you need in the equalisation section of the preamp is very accurate caps. From what I have read NKT are made with extreme accuracy and that's why I use them here. On this tiny prototype board is the differential PS which splits the 27V battery supply into +/- 13V. 220uf low ESR caps and 0.1uf polies ensure steady, non-sag and clean voltage rails. Edited October 23, 2016 by mwhouston
Nada Posted October 23, 2016 Posted October 23, 2016 Anybody tried this STA333BW based DDX amp with USB input and good for 10w stereo output? Thats $16 for the equivalent of USB/DAC/Pre-amp/power- amp but it needs a power supply. https://world.taobao.com/item/526018865372.htm#detail 1
mwhouston Posted October 23, 2016 Posted October 23, 2016 (edited) 4 hours ago, Nada said: Anybody tried this STA333BW based DDX amp with USB input and good for 10w stereo output? Thats $16 for the equivalent of USB/DAC/Pre-amp/power- amp but it needs a power supply. https://world.taobao.com/item/526018865372.htm#detail Satan, get thee behind me. I have to stop. Edited October 23, 2016 by mwhouston 1
mwhouston Posted October 28, 2016 Posted October 28, 2016 (edited) An update shot of my current all DIY (apart from Oppo and Rega Plana3). The 15" Beyama concentric, (beside from bottom up)250W Class D (on the bottom), USB DSD DAC, Pi3 on a 2TB HDD. Main rack (bottom up) - PS for 300B, 300B, Oppo 95, Tube preamp, Rega Plana3 (on top of rack but not visible), Tube phono MM preamp and Boozehond labs inspired MC stage. This setup allows me to Play vinyl, CDs, SACD DVDA etc., Blue Ray, Stream and File based music upto DSD64. Also to switch from Class D power amp to 300B in minutes. Most pleasing amp (currently) - 250W Class D with massive Mundorf MLytic 47,000uf caps. Edited October 28, 2016 by mwhouston 7
Guest Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 (edited) Bit of a project on the go here that has been in the background of other jobs, thought I would share this build with the DIY community. Have always been keen to build a rack of decent 230vac power amps to run either HT or a stereo separates set up. In the past have used car amps for this type of big system so this type of thing is fairly new and somewhat unexplored although some of the new set up has been in service. Matching set of Holton Precision Audio Power Amps 3 off, 2 x 250w RMS (into 8 ohm) High Current Dual Monos 1 off (6 channel) 2 x 150w and 4 x 100w. All amps are having matching (copper/gold) binding posts and USA made Copper/gold RCA sockets. RCA connectors and 75ohm silver/copper mil spec. teflon signal cables. Part of the build is a full set of RCA Cables using the same mil spec teflon 75ohm cable. All amps also are having a full matching set of Harbuch Transformers. Matching Cases with Conrad heat sinks. All amps triggered on from a single button on the 6 channel. Configurable and bridgeable 10 or 12 channels. Particularly useful as my subs will require 4 channels. Total amplification is over 2.2Kw into 8 ohms, 2 Ohm capable. 99% of my components are delivered/tested/inspected and ready for the build which commences as the logistical phase is completed (minus a few details) including one face plate for a 2 channel Now drilling/tapping the Conrads. Next job is to work out a way to suspend all the transformers on sorbothane/urethane so as to cut down mechanical resonance transmission to the cases. Amps will weigh about 100Kg so will also need a solid rack. Edited October 30, 2016 by Guest
Upfront Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 Bit of a project on the go here that has been in the background of other jobs, thought I would share this build with the DIY community. Have always been keen to build a rack of decent 230vac power amps to run either HT or a stereo separates set up. In the past have used car amps for this type of big system [emoji14] so this type of thing is fairly new and somewhat unexplored although some of the new set up has been in service. Matching set ofHolton Precision Audio Power Amps 3 off, 2 x 250w RMS (into 8 ohm) High Current Dual Monos 1 off (6 channel) 2 x 150w and 4 x 100w. All amps are having matching (copper/gold) binding posts and USA made Copper/gold RCA sockets. RCA connectors and 75ohm silver/copper mil spec. teflon signal cables. Part of the build is a full set of RCA Cables using the same mil spec teflon 75ohm cable. All amps also are having a full matching set of Harbuch Transformers. Matching Cases with Conrad heat sinks. All amps triggered on from a single button on the 6 channel. Configurable and bridgeable 10 or 12 channels. Particularly useful as my subs will require 4 channels. Total amplification is over 2.2Kw into 8 ohms, 2 Ohm capable. 99% of my components are delivered/tested/inspected and ready for the build which commences as the logistical phase is completed (minus a few details) including one face plate for a 2 channel Now drilling/tapping the Conrads. Next job is to work out a way to suspend all the transformers on sorbothane/urethane so as to cut down mechanical resonance transmission to the cases. Amps will weigh about 100Kg so will also need a solid rack. Having seen all this layed out yesterday, I must say it all looks bloody impressive. Massive transformers and piles of caps will make for some interesting listening with 4 x 18s and a pair of 15" lower mid bass drivers. Having heard a couple of Holtons now, I have no doubt this will be an exceptional system. Can't wait to hear it finished mate.
Guest Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 (edited) On 10/30/2016 at 0:19 PM, Upfront said: Having seen all this layed out yesterday, I must say it all looks bloody impressive. Massive transformers and piles of caps will make for some interesting listening with 4 x 18s and a pair of 15" lower mid bass drivers. Having heard a couple of Holtons now, I have no doubt this will be an exceptional system. Can't wait to hear it finished mate. Hi Linc, the lower mids are 18's, Eminence Magnums, or the Acoustic Elegance 18's So its 6 x 18's with possibility of 8 in future Thanks for the nice comments, legend for making the 8 hour round trip from Hobart to help with the Data job. Edited October 30, 2016 by Guest
Mushroom01 Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 New project I'll be starting soon. 18" sub sealed (4.5cft net) enclosure, for Music & HT use. Want that real kick in the pants, especially from movies & certain types of music.... and it will be just a fun project . Driver has been ordered over the weekend, from Parts Express in the USA. http://www.daytonaudio.com/specs/specsheet.php?prod=295-472 I'll start a new thread for this build when it starts, with many details including why i chose this particular driver over the Ultimax 18" for my use. Cheers! 3
Guest Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 After the first 18, none of smaller drivers (except tweeters) seems to really matter anymore @Mushroom01 It's like being afflicted with a terrible addiction.
Mushroom01 Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 (edited) 11 minutes ago, 125dBmonster said: After the first 18, none of smaller drivers (except tweeters) seems to really matter anymore @Mushroom01 It's like being afflicted with a terrible addiction. I had my heart set on this driver from AE, but......family budgets are pain in the ass... http://aespeakers.com/shop/td/td18h/#prettyPhoto Edited October 30, 2016 by Mushroom01 1
Guest Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 (edited) 4 minutes ago, mwhouston said: Big. And highly efficient you don't need a big amp to get fun out of 18's, but the "affliction will bite hard" beyond that to go more, guaranteed. WARNING ADDICTIVE Edited October 30, 2016 by Guest
Guest Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 2 minutes ago, Mushroom01 said: I had my heart set on this driver from AE, but......family budgets are pain in the ass... http://aespeakers.com/shop/td/td18h/#prettyPhoto Yes, have a pair of these with the black phase plug and customised for 4 ohms, magnet as big as a babies head. Super Driver
Mushroom01 Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 2 minutes ago, 125dBmonster said: And highly efficient you don't need a big amp to get fun out of 18's, but the "affliction will bite hard" beyond that to go more, guaranteed. WARNING ADDICTIVE One of the main reasons why I went for the Reference 18" driver 93db over the Ultimax 18" 88db. I'll be using 500w amp with EQ.
Guest Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 96dB when you put 2 in the same box for the first watt at 0.1mm excursion below 100Hz. "You have been warned" 500w is plenty (enough for 2) WAF and space to house the monsters are the only drawbacks, oh, resonating the neighbours homes can be an issue as well. Good luck with you project, watching on
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