aussievintage Posted May 8, 2021 Posted May 8, 2021 23 minutes ago, mwhouston said: No gaps in toroid power trannies. That's exactly my point. Hence why they saturate on DC more easily.
bob_m_54 Posted May 8, 2021 Posted May 8, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, mwhouston said: Yes I've heard this tale a few times but yet to ever see it actually happening. I get it but toroid trannis are both good and bad. They are bad because there is very little iron in their core and that is why they saturate on the tiniest amount of DC on the mains (all mains has DC) and don’t work as they should. A DC blocker fixes that. Because their cores are weak noise from the mains is not blocked and gets into the windings and the amp electronics. Cheap RFI/EMI filters can help here. And toroid trannies are good because they leak little flux into the neighbouring sensitive electronics. Because of the low flux leak i cannot image any real voltages being generated into a single bolt well away from the windings within the tranni. In fact it may guide flux away from the externals of the tranni. A good thing. Further more a single bolt is an open magnetic cct. and any flux occurring in the bolt would be immeasurably week. Therefore any current flowing through the bolt would also be extremely small. Now don’t forget any current attempting to flow through the bolt will meet eddy currents which will appose those very week currents being generated. Thanks eddy. Put up your hand if you have seen an amp burst into flames due to the earthed bolt holding down the tranni. I rest my case. I thought he was talking about a physical short to chassis/earth? Quote If the transformer is bolted to the chassis without insulation, wouldn’t that create a short winding? Edited May 8, 2021 by bob_m_54 1
Steffen Posted May 8, 2021 Posted May 8, 2021 59 minutes ago, mwhouston said: Put up your hand if you have seen an amp burst into flames due to the earthed bolt holding down the tranni. I haven’t, but I’ve never tried. My point was not in relation to magnet flux. It was about the bolt, the chassis and the ground wire all being electrical conductors, and forming another secondary winding around the transformer core. A winding that is being shorted. I know that transformer bolts cannot be screwed into both the bottom and the top of a chassis, for the same reason. 1
mwhouston Posted May 8, 2021 Posted May 8, 2021 A few more pics. inside and and out. Waiting for the badge to come. Just added a blue “on” led. retro-thermionic amber would not work with the enclosure colours. 2 1
mwhouston Posted May 8, 2021 Posted May 8, 2021 1 hour ago, Steffen said: I haven’t, but I’ve never tried. My point was not in relation to magnet flux. It was about the bolt, the chassis and the ground wire all being electrical conductors, and forming another secondary winding around the transformer core. A winding that is being shorted. I know that transformer bolts cannot be screwed into both the bottom and the top of a chassis, for the same reason. Its not a winding. Flux is way too low. 300VAC tranni.
crtexcnndrm99 Posted May 11, 2021 Posted May 11, 2021 Question for anyone handy with wood finishing... Any ideas on how I might darken a varnished finish to go from the light colour (approx the reverse side of the removed back door in the pic) to the more golden/orange/patina colour (the cabints in the pic)? Not sure that my cabinets will mellow with age as much as I am hoping. Example: Yours truly: 2 2
crtexcnndrm99 Posted May 12, 2021 Posted May 12, 2021 2 hours ago, Janus77 said: Maybe just wear sunnies? Haha. Does it really sound that pedantic? That’s what this hobby will do to you..
Janus77 Posted May 12, 2021 Posted May 12, 2021 1 hour ago, crtexcnndrm99 said: Haha. Does it really sound that pedantic? That’s what this hobby will do to you.. Nah not pedantic at all, you've built awesome speakers. You have a right to get them to the finish you want, if you envision them being darker, definitely need to make that happen 1 1
Janus77 Posted May 12, 2021 Posted May 12, 2021 8 hours ago, crtexcnndrm99 said: Haha. Does it really sound that pedantic? That’s what this hobby will do to you.. what are the brass logo?
crtexcnndrm99 Posted May 12, 2021 Posted May 12, 2021 Just now, Janus77 said: what are the brass logo? A fellow on LencoHeaven forum makes logos to almost any design, there’s a huge thread on what he’s done for customers. Affordable and he did a stand up job
Wozza_Lee Posted May 18, 2021 Posted May 18, 2021 On 12/05/2021 at 7:23 AM, crtexcnndrm99 said: Question for anyone handy with wood finishing... Any ideas on how I might darken a varnished finish to go from the light colour (approx the reverse side of the removed back door in the pic) to the more golden/orange/patina colour (the cabints in the pic)? Not sure that my cabinets will mellow with age as much as I am hoping. Example: Yours truly: What finish is on there currently, I have used tung oil a few times, has a lovely caramel gold colour that would be a lot closer to what you have posted. Normally a oil based finish will come with a darker patina when dry 1
crtexcnndrm99 Posted May 18, 2021 Posted May 18, 2021 3 hours ago, Wozza_Lee said: What finish is on there currently, I have used tung oil a few times, has a lovely caramel gold colour that would be a lot closer to what you have posted. Normally a oil based finish will come with a darker patina when dry Started with bug oil and then a poly wipe on finish for added durability. See here
mwhouston Posted May 18, 2021 Posted May 18, 2021 It cant play a tune but it can capture an image. When you thought hifi gear was expensive here is a $10K camera. And I think thats US bucks. Ill just stick with DIY hifi for now thanks. But i did pay $30 for a Kodak Boxbrownie.
Wozza_Lee Posted May 20, 2021 Posted May 20, 2021 On 18/05/2021 at 4:42 PM, crtexcnndrm99 said: Started with bug oil and then a poly wipe on finish for added durability. See here What base poly did you use? Water based will make it tricky to darken more without a lot of sanding. The only real option without sanding it right back would be a tinted poly over the top
crtexcnndrm99 Posted May 20, 2021 Posted May 20, 2021 4 hours ago, Wozza_Lee said: What base poly did you use? Water based will make it tricky to darken more without a lot of sanding. The only real option without sanding it right back would be a tinted poly over the top I no longer have the tin unfortunately. Could work it out with a bit of sleuthing but am thinking that the current finish will keep me happy. Would be more of a shame to go and put a lower quality finish on and have to sand right back (which I no longer have the equipment to do!). Appreciate the input 1
mwhouston Posted May 21, 2021 Posted May 21, 2021 (edited) Put together a Tripath Class D using an enclosure originally for a SS amp. I had a 180W stereo amp module with speaker crowbar protect around for a few years and this pre-loved enclosure with PS. Ive been listening, once more, to this amp for the last few days and are very impressed with the sound. Super tight bass grip plus extended bass and a very detailed mid to treble presentation. All music just sounds stunning and dynamic. This, like the chip amp, is dead quiet. Absolutely nothing comes out of the speakers unless it is music. An excellent amp if you have high sensitive speakers because it has an extremely low noise floor. My speakers are 90db efficient and even with my ear inside the woofer or horn with the volume up there is just dead silence. Edited May 21, 2021 by mwhouston 5
betocool Posted May 21, 2021 Posted May 21, 2021 As usual @mwhouston Mark, your builds are spotless! Cheers, Alberto 1
mwhouston Posted May 21, 2021 Posted May 21, 2021 2 hours ago, betocool said: As usual @mwhouston Mark, your builds are spotless! Cheers, Alberto Thanks mate. Its a little agricultural inside but sounds divine. Just watched two Netflix movies with it providing the two-channel grunt power. Plenty of low bass and rumbles. Very happy. 2
crtexcnndrm99 Posted May 21, 2021 Posted May 21, 2021 (edited) First scratch build. Going to start today by sorting through these parts. When you don’t have a stock of parts, you end up with a pile like this - it’s a little overwhelming (and I’m still missing some pieces)! Build is NSC for the Lenco PTP table Sorting. Front pile: resistors... Edited May 21, 2021 by crtexcnndrm99 3
stereo coffee Posted May 22, 2021 Posted May 22, 2021 On 08/05/2021 at 3:12 AM, Steffen said: As long as you don’t create a conductive path around the transformer core, you should be fine. If that were to happen I suppose the green and yellow plastic dripping off the ground wire would be a sure sign Not forgetting the bolt running through the middle inner core if using a toroidal, should be insulated from chassis earth. This is to avoid what is called a shorted turn. The inner core of a toroidal has the highest flux potential and can couple to the chassis lower potential if left un-insulated. https://sigatransformers.co.uk/standard-toroids/ In the attached image I have used the plastic hub of a Jaycar part SR1212 switch, to insulate the bolt of a 20VA toroidal , the lower rubber mat then snugly fits over. the bolt then has no conduction to chassis earth. 1
aussievintage Posted May 22, 2021 Posted May 22, 2021 Stereonet's problems a little while ago has left some problems with email reporting of new posts. I am seeing particular threads, such as this one, not sending me emails - but maybe that's just coincidence. Anyway, forgive this post, which is just to see if a new post "wakes it up". I am still following along when I notice new posts.
muon* Posted May 22, 2021 Posted May 22, 2021 (edited) New pair of minimalist interconnects Neotech Silver/Gold positive and Duelund Silver negative, Star Silver Plated Copper plugs. Edit: Damn I need to dust! Edited May 22, 2021 by muon* 4 1
MattyW Posted May 22, 2021 Posted May 22, 2021 4 hours ago, muon* said: New pair of minimalist interconnects Neotech Silver/Gold positive and Duelund Silver negative, Star Silver Plated Copper plugs. Edit: Damn I need to dust! Ner, dust adds.... Damping.
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