Guest Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 When I replace the benchtop (which long overdue) I might keep that corner and hang it on the wall :lol:
betocool Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 There probably better drivers around. Great box. Most definitively. This is more about doing something for the sake of it, and having a go with a plunge router and a circular saw. However, these drivers did sound very nice. And once in the case, they do look much nicer (I owe you a picture). Nice boxes for sure. Those speakers remind me of some I have somewhere.... New boxes should make a difference. Also.... I see your marked workbench and raise you a few cuts and nicks :lol: image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg The table underneath is one of those heavy duty office tables, but I didn't want to ruin that one. The former IKEA bedroom closet door does the job quite nicely though, but I'll have to replace it with something sturdier for the next project, whenever that is.
Guest Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 This is more about doing something for the sake of it I hear ya, brother. Loud and clear.
Guest Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) @@betocool Are the two small holes on the right (tweeter and port?) a bit close.....? Will you use the octagonal surrounds for the drivers, or what's the plan? Drivers mounted on the inside....? Mesh front? Edited July 2, 2015 by Dirty_vinylpusher
mwhouston Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 I have finished the Radi0Kit tube phono pre. The enclosure top needs a few big holes for the tubes to poke through. I have played it for an a hour and at this point I would say the sound is dark and enjoyable but as we all know most amps etc. takes 50 to 100 hours to burn in so a way to go. 4
betocool Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 @@betocool Are the two small holes on the right (tweeter and port?) a bit close.....? Will you use the octagonal surrounds for the drivers, or what's the plan? Drivers mounted on the inside....? Mesh front? They are indeed very close, but they fit. Just. Fit. For the life of me, I can't figure out which one you refer to as the octogonal surround? However, all drivers (bass, mid, tweeter) are mounted from the inside. Again, a very tight fit. The port (that toilet paper like holder thingy) goes from the inside and is glued to the inside of the hole. So, the very small one, tweeter, on top of the port, the mid on its own on the opposite side and the bass on the bottom. I actually mounted them today with the last light of the day, man it was difficult! Very very close. I just need to stick in the damping material, connect the cables, and tommorrow we're ready! Pics to follow...
Guest Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) They are indeed very close, but they fit. Just. Fit. For the life of me, I can't figure out which one you refer to as the octogonal surround? However, all drivers (bass, mid, tweeter) are mounted from the inside. Again, a very tight fit. The port (that toilet paper like holder thingy) goes from the inside and is glued to the inside of the hole. So, the very small one, tweeter, on top of the port, the mid on its own on the opposite side and the bass on the bottom. I actually mounted them today with the last light of the day, man it was difficult! Very very close. I just need to stick in the damping material, connect the cables, and tommorrow we're ready! Pics to follow... Ah very good, yeh mounted from the inside will look sweet.I was hoping you'd do that as it would be a shame to cover any of the front panel up. Sorry, by octagonal surround I was referring to the surrounds/frames around the drivers on the original speakers. Although they're probably more like square with rounded corners... :lol: Look forward to pics of finished product. Edited July 2, 2015 by Dirty_vinylpusher
betocool Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 DVP, I see you fell into the same trap I fell into before putting them apart... I think... The front of the old cabinet is just plastic, that put me off a bit in the beginning, because once the plastic is off, you see the drivers are bum ugly.
Guest Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 DVP, I see you fell into the same trap I fell into before putting them apart... I think... Ah, you mean the "surrounds" are actually part of the whole front and not individual? once the plastic is off, you see the drivers are bum ugly. Yeh they ain't pretty. :lol:
Owen Y Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 I have finished the Radi0Kit tube phono pre. The enclosure top needs a few big holes for the tubes to poke through. I have played it for an a hour and at this point I would say the sound is dark and enjoyable but as we all know most amps etc. takes 50 to 100 hours to burn in so a way to go. Good work, mw... I see that the ebay specs say Output Imped is 45k ohms - that could be a typo (ie v high), or if correct, it would mean that stage would be sensitive to HF rolloff, eg with capacitance, long cables, etc. Try make sure that you have a short as poss link betw this phono & the preamp input. eg. try a simple twisted twin wire link per ch, low capacitance connection. Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/
betocool Posted July 3, 2015 Posted July 3, 2015 Ah, you mean the "surrounds" are actually part of the whole front and not individual? That's right! It's a whole plastic front.
evil c Posted July 3, 2015 Posted July 3, 2015 I have finished the Radi0Kit tube phono pre. The enclosure top needs a few big holes for the tubes to poke through. I have played it for an a hour and at this point I would say the sound is dark and enjoyable but as we all know most amps etc. takes 50 to 100 hours to burn in so a way to go. @@mwhouston Could soon be time (after burn in ) to put it through its paces against your La Boca at evil Springs! 1
mwhouston Posted July 3, 2015 Posted July 3, 2015 @@mwhouston Could soon be time (after burn in ) to put it through its paces against your La Boca at evil Springs! Quite possible. 1
TMM Posted July 3, 2015 Posted July 3, 2015 (edited) Waveguide mold looking somewhat smooth now: Dodgy freeair measurement looks promising: Edited July 3, 2015 by TMM 1
mwhouston Posted July 3, 2015 Posted July 3, 2015 Good work, mw... I see that the ebay specs say Output Imped is 45k ohms - that could be a typo (ie v high), or if correct, it would mean that stage would be sensitive to HF rolloff, eg with capacitance, long cables, etc. Try make sure that you have a short as poss link betw this phono & the preamp input. eg. try a simple twisted twin wire link per ch, low capacitance connection. Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/ It's not a typo. Here is an outputs calculator for a 12AX7. The output is indeed 45K. I'm not sure it was sounding dark now but possibly right. Im using my Beyma single 12" speakers which have a characteristic sound. The Beymas may have masked the sound of the tube phono stage. Starting to enjoy it more. http://www.ampbooks.com/mobile/amplifier-calculators/output-impedance/calculator/
betocool Posted July 3, 2015 Posted July 3, 2015 Alright, done for some time. Here's the result, the finished speakers! More information about the construction and more pictures can be found here: http://betocools.blogspot.com.au/2015/07/speaker-upgrade.html 4
Owen Y Posted July 3, 2015 Posted July 3, 2015 It's not a typo. Here is an outputs calculator for a 12AX7. The output is indeed 45K. I'm not sure it was sounding dark now but possibly right. Im using my Beyma single 12" speakers which have a characteristic sound. The Beymas may have masked the sound of the tube phono stage. Starting to enjoy it more. http://www.ampbooks.com/mobile/amplifier-calculators/output-impedance/calculator/ Yup indeed correct, the PCB shows the 12AX7 output plate-connected, so output Z is at least that. As said, even 0.5m of moderately capacitive IC could rolloff from 5-10kHz. Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/ 1
Guest Posted July 3, 2015 Posted July 3, 2015 (edited) Alright, done for some time. Here's the result, the finished speakers! IMG_5621.JPG IMG_5624.JPG IMG_5625.JPG More information about the construction and more pictures can be found here: http://betocools.blogspot.com.au/2015/07/speaker-upgrade.html :thumb: Good stuff! EDIT. Just looked at your link and the other pics. Had a giggle at the "The drill didn't fit inside" part. Have been caught out by that a few times myself haha. For the next project, get yourself a couple of these corner clamps: Or a piece of (at least) 50x50x3mm aluminium angle and clamp that to the pieces. Also, when cutting with circ saw it's easier to clamp a guide to the piece, like an old spirit level or right angle steel/aluminium and run the saw against that. More precise than using the guide on the saw. And clamps clamps clamps clamps. Can never have too many clamps These springy ones are good for lining things up before G-clamping. I must hav about 10 of them, all different sizes, about 15-20 G-clamps and a number of small welding clamps. Sometimes they're ALL in use at once :blink: Edited July 3, 2015 by Dirty_vinylpusher
mwhouston Posted July 4, 2015 Posted July 4, 2015 (edited) Yup indeed correct, the PCB shows the 12AX7 output plate-connected, so output Z is at least that. As said, even 0.5m of moderately capacitive IC could rolloff from 5-10kHz. Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/ What is tha formula for calcs. But you may be on the right track. I make all my own gear, everything except media players. The interconnects to the BoZ pream are longish but are only two fine silver plated strands of wire wrap wire twisted together no protective cover. I can measure the capacitance but I think it low. I can also move the preamp and try shorter ICs.What would be the max capacitance you would like to see? Edited July 4, 2015 by mwhouston
betocool Posted July 4, 2015 Posted July 4, 2015 :thumb: Good stuff! EDIT. Just looked at your link and the other pics. Had a giggle at the "The drill didn't fit inside" part. Have been caught out by that a few times myself haha. For the next project, get yourself a couple of these corner clamps: image.jpg image.jpg Or a piece of (at least) 50x50x3mm aluminium angle and clamp that to the pieces. Also, when cutting with circ saw it's easier to clamp a guide to the piece, like an old spirit level or right angle steel/aluminium and run the saw against that. More precise than using the guide on the saw. And clamps clamps clamps clamps. Can never have too many clamps These springy ones are good for lining things up before G-clamping. image.jpg I must hav about 10 of them, all different sizes, about 15-20 G-clamps and a number of small welding clamps. Sometimes they're ALL in use at once :blink: I have to agree 100% with all your statements! Especially the one "you can never have too many clamps". I saw these corner clamps, I'll definitively have to get a few. Re the circular saw, after the first failed attempt I did use a straight plank as a guide and it made a world of difference, especially on the bevel cuts. And good point about the smaller springy clamps, makes sense before tightening all up. No matter how much I plan and look and measure, there's always something that slips away, like drill doesn't fit or cable too short. I'm very happy that the drivers fit all in that confined space.
Guest Posted July 4, 2015 Posted July 4, 2015 (edited) No matter how much I plan and look and measure, there's always something that slips away, like drill doesn't fit or cable too short.Yup.Knowing how to do something is one thing. Trying to stay 3 steps ahead of yourself and deciding in which order to do things is where we get caught out a lot doing stuff like this. It's all learning and every time you put something in the "bank" the next project is different with new problems. I love problem solving, as you probably figured from my projects, and always have the attitude that it WILL work, just have to find out HOW to make it work. When you start rushing things and think "I'll figure that out later" things often go wrong. Edited July 4, 2015 by Dirty_vinylpusher
Guest Posted July 4, 2015 Posted July 4, 2015 (edited) Upcoming boombox project for a mate. He wants something similar to my rust box, with tubing and stuff. Been looking for a suitable box for some time now, and we came across this today. Gonna need a bit lot of panelbeating, but it's a good size. Will probably use these. And they'll fit. Edited July 4, 2015 by Dirty_vinylpusher
mwhouston Posted July 4, 2015 Posted July 4, 2015 My platted wire wrap wire ICs are 105pf. Two earth at originating end one at destination with small chokes. But my BoZ preamp (currently in use) has a 25K pot upfront. I'm about to swap back to my 6N7 (not 6SN7) preamp. Inpit impedance is 250K. I'll report back.
Owen Y Posted July 4, 2015 Posted July 4, 2015 (edited) What is tha formula for calcs. But you may be on the right track. I make all my own gear, everything except media players. The interconnects to the BoZ pream are longish but are only two fine silver plated strands of wire wrap wire twisted together no protective cover. I can measure the capacitance but I think it low. I can also move the preamp and try shorter ICs. What would be the max capacitance you would like to see? Hi mw, I just use an online calculator for an RC (lo-pass) filter. This one works - http://sim.okawa-denshi.jp/en/CRtool.php The 'cutoff freq' is I think the -3dB 'corner freq' point - so divide that my say a factor of 7 (Morgan Jones) to get an approximation of the actual highest 0dB pt. eg. 45k + 100pF => 35kHz (-3dB).....which would mean the rolloff would commence from ~5kHz (0dB). Try not plaiting the wire & just regular loose twist - maybe less pF? Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/ Edited July 4, 2015 by Owen Y 1
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