betocool Posted September 3, 2015 Posted September 3, 2015 Going on with the Sony TA2650 mod. Built the alternative/secondary power supply from a 6V pcb transformer, got 9V and 5V out of it. 9V for LED's and relais, 5V for the microcontroller board (STM8 Discovery). Got the board working in almost no time, made a little program, hooked up a push button, a relais and an LED, and now, tadaaaa! Push the button -> LED turns on, relais turns on. Push the button again -> LED turns off, relais turns off! Plus at the moment I got an on-board LED on just to let me know the thing is still working. With one relais and one LED turned on, the 9V (dropped to around 7.4) is using 124 mA, most of it on the relais' coil. The microcontroller uses a few mA (haven't measured yet). Turn off the system, the 9V uses nothing really. It's just because this transformer will be on all the time, the controller needs to be powered to recognize the button push. Now I have to still hook up the amps power to the relais, get two more PB's for speakers A/B, LED's and relais, and then cosmetics and tidying up. Here's the open hearted surgery going on. Transformer on the top left, bottom left power supply, top right the relais, and bottom right the controller board. The bigger picture From the top LED there be light! 1
mwhouston Posted September 6, 2015 Posted September 6, 2015 I am so very pleased with the performance of the Boozhound Labs MC stage kit that I'm going to build my own BHL inspired version. I have most of the parts on hand but where this build will vary is; load selection, enclosure and output caps. The loads will be at least 100 and 50ohms if not 220ohms also and the enclosure will be Hammond. The caps will be AU$427.00 Audio Note Silver (4 nines) paper and oil with litz wire silver leads. Yes they are are $427.00 each and you can add another $50 for postage. Fortunately I bought them years ago when they were cheaper. I have been looking for a project to use these crazy expensive caps on. I can't think of a better project. This very "high-end" MC stage will come up for sale. But it will not be cheap.
DQ828 Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 Squeezebox linear PSU based on this design http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/277009-building-sbt-psu.html I cant believe you guy's dont want to buy the speaker drivers I'm selling, great drivers great price :) 7
Guest Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) Sweet, nice job What speaker drivers, great price where ? @@DQ828 edit, had a look at the seas tweeters. Edited September 7, 2015 by Guest
DQ828 Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 Why Perspex? Don't do it. Too late Because it was there, Polycarb actually 1
DQ828 Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 Sweet, nice job What speaker drivers, great price where ? @@DQ828 edit, had a look at the seas tweeters. Cost $900 AU from Madisound, great price is all relative I guess. Seen the latest Seas tweeter $6.5k USD !!
mwhouston Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 I posted earlier where I am to make a MC stage with $800+ Audio Note silver foil caps. I was going to use standard metal film resistors but now have ordered all Vishay 1% thin metal film resistors and Vishay electros. This is going to be one expensive but hopefully good sounding build. Im taking orders, lol.
tvcollector Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) Hi all ive just finished my turntable a peice of solid timber all routed underneath and glass platter Rega style and a lustre tonearm.sprayed 4 coats of clear and looking awsome. Edited September 7, 2015 by tvcollector 6
Green Wagon Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 Pft, what I'm in process of building is dead boring by comparison. Actually I think 'building' is to strong a word New pair of speaker cables. 8awg copper foil. Depending on the weather they'll be another week or two away yet. Suspend the foil, clean with pure alcohol, coat with silicon conformal coating, let dry, solder on copper fork connectors, sleeve and dress. I'll be sad if they don't improve on what I've tried previously..............
thesavage Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 I've been contemplating doing something similar...you've just confirmed that I should be doing! Cheers!!!
davewantsmoore Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 Seen the latest Seas tweeter $6.5k USD !! Whut? No. Link?
DQ828 Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/diamond-dome-tweeters/seas-excel-t29d001-diamond-dome-tweeter-matched-pair/
DQ828 Posted September 8, 2015 Posted September 8, 2015 Pft, what I'm in process of building is dead boring by comparison. Actually I think 'building' is to strong a word New pair of speaker cables. 8awg copper foil. Depending on the weather they'll be another week or two away yet. Suspend the foil, clean with pure alcohol, coat with silicon conformal coating, let dry, solder on copper fork connectors, sleeve and dress. I'll be sad if they don't improve on what I've tried previously.............. You'll have to show us some pictures, sound interesting to me.
Green Wagon Posted September 8, 2015 Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) Once there done, I shall indeed post some piccies. Fine weather atm so just cleaned and coated the second pair of foils. Now the loooooong wait for it to dry. (24hrs) EDIT. Some seem interested, So heres pics............... At all times I've handled the foil with cotton gloves to keep oils etc off them. 14 meter Coil of Foil (8awg - About 47mm wide) as supplied by Jantzen. And here we are outside, watching paint dry This is one channel, two ~3.5mtr runs, pegged to the clothes line by its ends. I've cleaned them with Isopropanol. The proper stuff, not the rubbish with oils and fragrances in it. Then after a few minutes to dry, a coat of silicon based conformal coating. Supposedly the silicon is more flexible. A copper tree. Must be shitmas. Eventually they will have these forkers soldered on. Think I'll use some of the silver solder I sell.. (Supposed to be gold over solid copper - I might sacrifice one to test that theory) And all will be encased in ~30mtrs of this. So much because it will shorten as I expand it to get the foil in. Also extra because I'm going a bit differently to commercial designs. Every run will be in its own separate sleeve. So, two separate runs per speaker. EDIT 2. Basically finished, just need to get some heat shrink for the ends. Used paper to test if I could get the entire width into the forks. I can, I did Folded the sides at an angle. then folded some more, before crushing down the last bit to fit the forks that I opened a little. Used silver solder because I have it and I can Pretty much completed. Melt the end of the sleeve to stop it going nuts.. The foil is 47mm wide, the sleeving is 25mm wide. Ended up using ~5mtrs of sleeve for each 3.5mtr foil. (4x 3.5mtrs = 20mtrs of 25mm sleeve) Preliminary thoughts. Easy to connect to the back of the speakers, probably due to the large terminal spacing I set when I made the speakers. Not so much fun on the back of the amp (pass labs x150) due to the very close terminal spacing as well as them being a vertical arrangement. I'm going to be a little paranoid about shorts. Cables have to come out sideways. Make no mistake, foil cables are not the easiest to use compared to 'normal' cables. So far, the sound, I think is cleaner. But I've only had them running for half hour. Once they have some time on them I'll have a proper listen and compare to my other cables.. Edited September 10, 2015 by Green Wagon 2
Malcolm Posted September 8, 2015 Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) When I made foil cables , I ran them through a laminator at our local printer . You could fold the ends in a way where you just need to punch a hole in the end . Cheers Edited September 8, 2015 by Malcolm
acg Posted September 8, 2015 Posted September 8, 2015 Keep it up @@Green Wagon...good stuff! Had you thought of using the adhesive Teflon tape instead of the silicon? I love my Lenehan Ribbonflex speaker cables and have seriously thought about having a go at making them myself when finishing up my 6 channel active horn system...with that many cables to make I might be better off experimenting a little.
Green Wagon Posted September 8, 2015 Posted September 8, 2015 When I made foil cables , I ran them through a laminator at our local printer . You could fold the ends in a way where you just need to punch a hole in the end . Cheers LOL, Brilliant. I hadn't thought of laminating them. Yes fold and punch is something I had thought of. But wasn't sure how durable it would be. Keep it up @@Green Wagon...good stuff! Had you thought of using the adhesive Teflon tape instead of the silicon? I love my Lenehan Ribbonflex speaker cables and have seriously thought about having a go at making them myself when finishing up my 6 channel active horn system...with that many cables to make I might be better off experimenting a little. Ta. Tape, no. I wanted to keep pos and neg separate to reduce issues with capacitance and it also helps reduce the risk of shorts. The reasons for the silicon coating is, reduce oxidation over time, extra insulation for amplifier safety. I figure 8awg has to be better for amplifier control of the bass driver. Well, thats my thoughts anyway. I have no science to back up my theories I had a set of ribbon cables here some time ago. Really liked what they did over my current cables. Hoping for more of the same.
Malcolm Posted September 8, 2015 Posted September 8, 2015 Yes fold and punch is something I had thought of. But wasn't sure how durable it would be. I never had it tare through and the binding post bit into nicely . Cheers
Green Wagon Posted September 8, 2015 Posted September 8, 2015 Well, the terminals haven't been put on yet. And I do like the idea of one less link to introduce issues... So ya just never know Sigh, decisions decisions......
mwhouston Posted September 8, 2015 Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) I have built a number of the CMoy inspired portable headphone amps. These can be made extremely compact run on a single 9V battery, have only one cap in the audio path and drive 32ohm headphones with ease. What I managed to do in a latter and still very compact build is to use a better input cap. Here is a couple of images showing the tiny cct. brd. and the better caps are the bigger brown ones. The whole amp will fit in the hand with easy, has low glow "On" led and gets about 50hours on a battery. You can run the battery down to 7 Volts where a 9V battery is considered exhausted but the chip (OPA2134) will run down to 5V. There is a differential voltage network on board to supply +\-4.5V from a single 9V. One of these drives my Kiwi friends 23ohm very expensive Bose in-ears. He was the first person I made this compact Hp amp for and thus the name has stuck. I am taking orders. Edited September 8, 2015 by mwhouston 2
WINEDS Posted September 9, 2015 Posted September 9, 2015 (edited) Squeezebox linear PSU based on this design http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/277009-building-sbt-psu.html I cant believe you guy's dont want to buy the speaker drivers I'm selling, great drivers great price :) I have a few on these boards from Jean Paul DQ828. Haven't built them yet. Did it make much of a difference to the sound? Edited September 9, 2015 by WINEDS
mwhouston Posted September 9, 2015 Posted September 9, 2015 With my new MC stage I thought seeing I'm using $800 worth of audio cap and Vishay resistors and electros I may as well use even better RCA sockets. I have ordered, from England, some Copper plated Rodium and Teflon units. What I paid for the RCAs I could have built the whole MC stage. Now the wait.
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