Equaliser Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) Absoloootely, DQ! OK, thanks. But how does a "final stage coupling" cap differ from an output cap? Andy In reference to what Bob Carver has one said, final stage coupling in multi-stage amplifiers (mostly tube triode based circuitry) it is after the interstage and just before the output stage. Output cap has many meanings and uses, in this scenario I'am talking about a strictly output cap as it's purpose for decoupling from a voltage out DAC to the output RCA connectors. What series in the Jupiter line up? voltage rating? The older flat stack might've been the HT series, rare ones rated in excess of 400v. Jupiter quickly discontinued the manufacturing methods for these and updated them quickly because lots of users reported them blowing up or melting faster then a candle due to heat tolerance issue. That was the end for me with using any Jupiter cap. I wouldn't touch one with a 50ft pole. EDIT: Most likely have been 600v rated units. I mentioned it a while ago when I joined SNA in a Jupiter cap thread that I had problems with them. That's what I thought, Mark! But, in my view, DefQon regards himself as an 'expert' ... so I wanted to understand what his definition of the two was. I'm no expert just a diyer. Maybe in a few years time when I have a 2nd degree in EE then maybe I can call myself a semi-expert. Read above on the two meanings. Measurement nuts would disagree. Indeed. Edited September 21, 2015 by DefQon
mwhouston Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 @, still liked the original Jupiters but as you said above there were heat issues. When I used them I was mindful of this and never had any problems.
Guest Muon Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) Ah, so one of the older inferior series, they now have them in the 600v rating. ......but being replaced with the newer round type of construction. Edited September 21, 2015 by ortofun
mwhouston Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) I made an earlier post of my DIY Boozhound Labs MC stage and said how good it was. I have some $427 X2 caps which need a home and thought this project maybe a good place for them. Resistors are Vishay and caps Nichion. The RCAs were over $80. Here is the completed cct. brd. I was was raised on Veri-board. The RCAs are copper and expensive and will bring this build to the $1K mark. It better sound good. Edited September 21, 2015 by mwhouston 1
Guest Muon Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 Yeah, those AN caps bump the costing right up there :o but they should sound pretty damn good I expect
Guest Muon Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 @, where I found eXovers useful is for my stereo sub-woofers which I originally crossed at 50hz now crossing 100hz as part of a 2.5 way speaker setup. I don't believe any component can improve on the signal comming out of a CD player or whatever. All components, active or passive, only degrade the sound. Choose those which degrade it less and add the distortion you like. In bold is where I have a different view to most folk, as how can a signal that is poor become richly detailed and tonally great...along with a sound stage that is much better...with only a cap change from what many consider good already, just doesn't add up for me......not without something more going on here. Only my view
Equaliser Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 In bold is where I have a different view to most folk, as how can a signal that is poor become richly detailed and tonally great...along with a sound stage that is much better...with only a cap change from what many consider good already, just doesn't add up for me......not without something more going on here. Only my view It's adding distortion that is only pleasant to the ears of the individual whether he chooses to like it or not. Same saying goes what is one man's treasure is rubbish to another. 1
Guest Muon Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) @DefQonIf It's distortion It's distortion I like, but i don't like the distortion of some cheaper caps like axon and similar caps, they are just gritty like these ming da (re-badged SRC caps) ones that were in my mate's amp. Some caps distortion includes smearing and stuff like that also, i dislike those distortions too....... One thing to note, is that like my mate said "i didn't know the sound was so distorted until now it is gone" This is what i have found at times also, some distortions are often only recognised by the ear as objectionable... once It's removed. Edited September 21, 2015 by ortofun
mwhouston Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) Ready to lock it up and give it a go. Hookup wire is wire warp wire - silver plated fine copper wire. Loading is 50 or 100ohms by an external switch. Edited September 21, 2015 by mwhouston 1
mwhouston Posted September 22, 2015 Posted September 22, 2015 Some final shots. On an initial listen, maybe a tad more bass but better sound stage. Early days. http://retro-thermionic.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/tengu-extreme-mc-phono-stage.html 3
Guest guru Posted September 22, 2015 Posted September 22, 2015 can't really follow the logic of using these caps and not using similar quality power supply caps, wire and resistors. aside from this, the silver caps will take around 200 hours run in time before the start to sound how they should. are they the newer mylar version or the paper versions?
betocool Posted September 26, 2015 Posted September 26, 2015 Finished another Smokey Headphone amp (a Cmoy/O2 mix), this one for 600 Ohms headphones. It hast a gain of 3.3 (roughly 10 dB), which works nice with the max volume on my Xperia. Ok, could have been a tiny bit more, but given that I'll use closed cans for this one, it's actually alright. I combined it with a pair of newly acquired used Beyerdynamic DT770's, and they complete setup sounds astonishingly clear and balanced. I feared the closed design of the DT's would make them too boomy... nonsense, I'm very happy with the purchase and the build. Some pics (and as per DVP's suggestion some time back, the LED lights up the cigar). 3
mwhouston Posted September 26, 2015 Posted September 26, 2015 You don't need me to say you have done everything right. Built similar myself with same phones. A great synergy. http://retro-thermionic.blogspot.com.au/2015/02/cmoy-knock-off-for-kiwi-friend.html
Stevesie Posted September 29, 2015 Posted September 29, 2015 Just finished putting a little UCD180 amp together. Seems to work quite well so far. HXR regs give it a warm analog glow 4
Stevesie Posted September 29, 2015 Posted September 29, 2015 (edited) lots of holes... Heh yes indeed. They were supposed to be lined up neatly....didn't quite work out ;-) Edited September 29, 2015 by Stevesie 1
Newman Posted September 29, 2015 Posted September 29, 2015 Just finished putting a little UCD180 amp together. Seems to work quite well so far. HXR regs give it a warm analog glow What's the case? Doesn't need to be very big.... 1
betocool Posted September 29, 2015 Posted September 29, 2015 Just finished putting a little UCD180 amp together. Seems to work quite well so far. HXR regs give it a warm analog glow Which power supply are you using? Did you just connect the differential input to the RCA connectors in the back (tie the - or + to ground)? Looks real nice. Anyone in Oz sell these kits or you ordered them from the Hypex shop? 1
Stevesie Posted September 29, 2015 Posted September 29, 2015 What's the case? Doesn't need to be very big.... Just a cheapy Chinese case off Aliexpress. A bit rough in spots but not bad for the money and the sides are quite thick so has decent heat dissipation http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/aluminum-chassis-2205-scuttle-edition-it-is-suitable-for-preamp-headphone-DAC/331129_2028731700.html 1
Stevesie Posted September 29, 2015 Posted September 29, 2015 Which power supply are you using? Did you just connect the differential input to the RCA connectors in the back (tie the - or + to ground)? Looks real nice. Anyone in Oz sell these kits or you ordered them from the Hypex shop? Cheers. It's the Hypex SMPS400180A power supply. Yep the - input is tied to ground at the case/rca junction - this arrangement seems to work fine and has enough gain fed straight from the output of an ES9023 dac chip. I bought all the parts from Hypex directly. Not cheap, but decent quality gear. I'm not sure if anyone does kits. I have a smaller module that is used in the NAD D3020 and a Connexelectronic SMPS to make a more compact amp at a later stage(see pic). I have a back injury and can no longer move my Rotel so the lightweight Class D/SMPS combo is perfect! 1
mwhouston Posted September 29, 2015 Posted September 29, 2015 (edited) @Stevesie; I have only ever driven my many Ds by linear PSs. Hope it sounds good. Edited September 29, 2015 by mwhouston 1
Stevesie Posted September 29, 2015 Posted September 29, 2015 (edited) @Stevesie; I have only ever driven my many Ds by linear PSs. Hope it sounds good. Cheers. Sounds fine so far, though I generally can't hear any difference between amps unless there is some obvious nonlinearity or insufficient power. I went with the Hypex because they seem to be the only Class D that is flat into any load(but I might have overlooked others). Edited September 29, 2015 by Stevesie 1
sfdoddsy Posted September 29, 2015 Posted September 29, 2015 Just for something different, I'm doing an open baffle using the newish Seas Excel C18 coaxial: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/COAX-18.htm Should be interesting. 1
mwhouston Posted September 29, 2015 Posted September 29, 2015 Just for something different, I'm doing an open baffle using the newish Seas Excel C18 coaxial: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/COAX-18.htm Should be interesting. And bass driver?
sfdoddsy Posted September 29, 2015 Posted September 29, 2015 Haven't decided yet. I have some Dayton RS225s. But maybe a Seas L26.
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