mwhouston Posted October 13, 2015 Posted October 13, 2015 I have liked the tin foil caps i have tried, not my most fav', but i do like them Who's Tins did you try.
Guest Muon Posted October 13, 2015 Posted October 13, 2015 @@mwhouston Mundorf ZN Have heard Andyn too but a number of years ago.
Cloth Ears Posted October 13, 2015 Posted October 13, 2015 Hi Guys, Any suggestions on components to use to build a portable bluetooth speaker? I'm not chasing perfect sound rather convenience - any sound is better than not which is what I have a the moment! I'm doing fifo work at the moment so want something for my room and to take into the bathroom so it can't be too heavy! There are plenty of commercial products available but I' rather DIY. I have a sure bluetooth module which I will be using at the heart of the portable speakers. Cheers, Tim The hassle with trying to build such a compromised system (you want portable good sound with light weight and blue-tooth connectivity) is that most compromises of this nature require advanced cabinet materials to allow for the light weight. And probably a light speaker (or two - if you're going the stereo route). I'd thought of this prior to the bluetooth phenomenon, for an iPod unit, and I'd gone as far as looking for a good 4" fullrange driver and was planning on building a composite, round pair of enclosures (based on a balloon covered in a thin layer and then building it up). Possibly the enclosure could be vented to allow a little bass extension (otherwise your cut-off would be around 120Hz), but even so, you wouldn't get below 80Hz. Good enough for most music, but not much chop for dance, trance, or other such purchasable files. If you did go the vented option, they could be used as 'handles' for carrying, or to join the pair together (I was going to have the mount for the iPod between the two vents). But DIY is such a fiddly thing when it comes to small items. So I gave it up and just turned the stereo up louder... for when I'm in the shower!
thesavage Posted October 14, 2015 Posted October 14, 2015 Thanks Cloth Ears I was thinking about using a couple of these speakers from Jaycar: http://www.jaycar.com.au/Sight-%26-Sound---Home/Hi-Fi-Speakers-%26-Accessories/Component-Speakers/Shielded-2-10W-8-Ohm-Full-Range-Speaker/p/AS3032 or these: http://www.jaycar.com.au/Sight-%26-Sound---Home/Hi-Fi-Speakers-%26-Accessories/Component-Speakers/Shielded-1-1W-8-Ohm-Full-Range-Speaker/p/AS3030 I already had this amp (or similar) for a project which I will use: http://www.parts-express.com/t-amp-tripath-ta2024-2x15w-audio-digital-amplifier-board--320-600 And the bluetooth module: http://www.parts-express.com/sure-electronics-bluetooth-40-audio-receiver-board-aptx--edr-12-vdc--320-351 Not sure what to use as a battery though...I have some Lipo from my RC gear.... Cheers, Tim 1
Tasebass Posted October 14, 2015 Posted October 14, 2015 When you say "ionization" what exactly do you mean. I think they sell funky ionization machines to improve your health while your taking the chinese herbs @@DQ828 Theory goes.... Prep ( rubbing down etc ) creates a lot of negative static charge....like rubbing your feet on certain flooring then touching something to earth out... This results in your nicely prepared surface susceptible to dirt inclusion once you start the spraying process. There are certain solvents ( anti-static cleaners, MEK etc. ) that will neutralize the charge to a certain degree, however, positive ionization will neutralize the air supply and surrounding areas to reduce the dirt inclusion. Problem is worse with plastic parts.... Cheers Tase.
mwhouston Posted October 14, 2015 Posted October 14, 2015 Thanks Cloth Ears I was thinking about using a couple of these speakers from Jaycar: http://www.jaycar.com.au/Sight-%26-Sound---Home/Hi-Fi-Speakers-%26-Accessories/Component-Speakers/Shielded-2-10W-8-Ohm-Full-Range-Speaker/p/AS3032 or these: http://www.jaycar.com.au/Sight-%26-Sound---Home/Hi-Fi-Speakers-%26-Accessories/Component-Speakers/Shielded-1-1W-8-Ohm-Full-Range-Speaker/p/AS3030 I already had this amp (or similar) for a project which I will use: http://www.parts-express.com/t-amp-tripath-ta2024-2x15w-audio-digital-amplifier-board--320-600 And the bluetooth module: http://www.parts-express.com/sure-electronics-bluetooth-40-audio-receiver-board-aptx--edr-12-vdc--320-351 Not sure what to use as a battery though...I have some Lipo from my RC gear.... Cheers, Tim Those small inefficient drivers may be very good if use in the right place.
thesavage Posted October 16, 2015 Posted October 16, 2015 More on my Bluetooth speaker idea: There's a guy at work with a cheap set of speakers to connect to his laptop. The drivers are mounted at either end of a the rectangular housing, possibly in an iso-baric configuration. It got me think would it be worth considering a similar setup with the full-range speakers I provide the links for in my previous post??? Would this improve the bass from the speakers? Anyone had any experience with this? Cheers, Tim
mwhouston Posted October 16, 2015 Posted October 16, 2015 I posted earlier my super expensive DIY MC stage using the Audio Note Silver foil caps. Here is the follow up to that with the Audio Note Tin foil caps. Never heard tin foil caps, neither have I? Here is the cct. brd. complete using veri-brd. Again Vishay resistors and Nichicon electros and my own little tweak on the original design. 1
mwhouston Posted October 23, 2015 Posted October 23, 2015 Salix shares the same DNA as Tengu but with Audio Note Tin foil caps. The first of the these Boozhound Labs inspired MC stages had $427 Audio Note Silver foil caps (Tengu). But now there is a brother of Tengu which is the same Boozhound Labs inspired build but with Audio Note Tin foil caps. 1
mwhouston Posted October 31, 2015 Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) In a couple of my better MC stages I have been using some expensive solid copper RCAs. Here is what they look like dissembled. They appear to be machine from a solid copper block. And talk about promote yourself. Edited October 31, 2015 by mwhouston 2
Guest Muon Posted October 31, 2015 Posted October 31, 2015 @@mwhouston Mark, how do the AN tin foils sound in the new one? Do you like them?
mwhouston Posted October 31, 2015 Posted October 31, 2015 @@mwhouston Mark, how do the AN tin foils sound in the new one? Do you like them? Mate, glad you asked. I found with the first of the AN series - Tengu, that it took about 12 hours of play before I felt the MC stage had really settled in. The second AN series MC stage - Salix (Tin caps) is just coming up to that period of burn in. In the next few days I will get a chance to AB. Then I may see some differences. My gut feel is the Silver AN caps may sound better than the Tins. That's because I felt the Silvers seem to have this little bit of extra sparkle. BUT the Tins certainly sound excellent. I have really enjoyed the last 10 hours of play. In the the middle of all this "build and listen" I washed another 15 classical LPs which I like to play immediately after the wash. I have also played a little rock with this mix. So a double reason for getting lots of play hours on the new MC stage. I will report back but for the money the Tin caps certainly deliver.
Owen Y Posted October 31, 2015 Posted October 31, 2015 Mark - I see that the AN caps are marked outer foil - do you find it worthwhile to bother with 'correct' orientation? Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/ 1
mwhouston Posted October 31, 2015 Posted October 31, 2015 Mark - I see that the AN caps are marked outer foil - do you find it worthwhile to bother with 'correct' orientation? Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/ Not to fussed but I would always insure that they are both the same.
Owen Y Posted October 31, 2015 Posted October 31, 2015 Not to fussed but I would always insure that they are both the same. Certainly different sound I've found. The pundits usually suggest Outer Foil to low imped (input) side in coupling positions - but YMMV. Worth testing, if you've paid big $$ References: http://www.aikenamps.com/index.php/where-to-connect-the-outside-foil-on-capacitors Technically, orientation also ensures lowest induced noise: http://jimmyauw.com/2010/04/24/observing-inner-and-outer-foil-of-some-popular-capacitors/ Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/
Guest Muon Posted November 7, 2015 Posted November 7, 2015 I always try to get the outer foil correctly orientated, takes the same amount of work as fitting them in the incorrect direction.
Guest guru Posted November 7, 2015 Posted November 7, 2015 It's specified on their website as to the marked end as facing the input.
mwhouston Posted November 7, 2015 Posted November 7, 2015 (edited) Not a good image but you'll get the idea. This is an EL84 SE UL amp based on the Decware schematic for their triode power amp. I could have made this a triode amp by strapping grid two but the Edcor OPTs (under the bonnet) have the UL tap and these tubes are little pentodes plus every SE UL power amp I have built has really sounded excellent. If I wasn't so lazy I could put in a pentode, triode switch and have the best of both worlds. Still possible. The amp is assembled but not wired. That's next. Edited November 7, 2015 by mwhouston 2
mwhouston Posted November 7, 2015 Posted November 7, 2015 I should add that the EL84 tubes are Japanese AWV. The rec tube is a Sophia Electronics 274B. It may not remain. The original amps use 5U4s of which I have many including some Golden Dragons. The amp may look better with a smaller rec tube. The 6N1P driver tube is a common Russian.
Owen Y Posted November 7, 2015 Posted November 7, 2015 Tube rectifiers - I always like the 5U4/5Z3 - needs more filament current (3A), but low impedance. And low cost Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/ 1
mwhouston Posted November 7, 2015 Posted November 7, 2015 (edited) I have since discovered the 5U4GB which is an extremely big plated, tough tube. I also discovered they can add about 20V to HT by dropping less internally. Where other tubes have flashed when turning on my 380V 200mA powered 300B these babies laughs it off. I have a few of these tubes, some Ozzie made. I have ordered some NOS Silvania tubes to try. Not sure they are sonic supremos but can handle high voltages and big current. Ugly tube but! Edited November 7, 2015 by mwhouston
Owen Y Posted November 8, 2015 Posted November 8, 2015 (edited) Yup, I go for the Gs too usually. AWV tubes are v good, IM(limited)E. (Australian Wireless Valve) Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/ Edited November 8, 2015 by Owen Y
Geoff Millar Posted November 9, 2015 Posted November 9, 2015 I was going to build Paul Carmody's "Core" speakers with the Dayton RS180 and RS28F, but I have a large listening room and didn't know if these would have enough 'oomph". After some invaluable help from a well known designer in the US, I'm doing an MTM with Dayton RS180P-8 woofers and Morel tweeters, with a vented "MLTL" floor standing cabinet. Am still waiting for the cabinets, but a test listen with a home made baffle indicates they should be sensational. Cost now would be about 40% more than when I purchased the drivers etc from LSK as our $ has gone down the S-bend, but for the quality, they would still be great value. LSK has a bit more info on this project in their Customer Projects section Geoff 1
mwhouston Posted November 9, 2015 Posted November 9, 2015 I was going to build Paul Carmody's "Core" speakers with the Dayton RS180 and RS28F, but I have a large listening room and didn't know if these would have enough 'oomph". After some invaluable help from a well known designer in the US, I'm doing an MTM with Dayton RS180P-8 woofers and Morel tweeters, with a vented "MLTL" floor standing cabinet. Am still waiting for the cabinets, but a test listen with a home made baffle indicates they should be sensational. Cost now would be about 40% more than when I purchased the drivers etc from LSK as our $ has gone down the S-bend, but for the quality, they would still be great value. LSK has a bit more info on this project in their Customer Projects section Geoff Mate, not sure your outlay but my Beymas cost $2K landed, cabinets $1K and Xovers??
Geoff Millar Posted November 9, 2015 Posted November 9, 2015 (edited) Hi Total spend isn't yet available but will be significantly less than that. With the $ the way it is, the spend on drivers alone now would be about $700. I had a few bits on hand such as the crossover PCBs, and a family contact is doing the cabinets. One quote for just the cabinets - and few people are interested in doing cabinets - was $1,200 pr. Happy listening Update: have made a temporary baffle to test the drivers and crossovers, and these sound great even with (of course) little bass. Detailed, balanced and loud if required, but not as clinical as some aluminium systems I've heard. Cabinets are due soon, then it's a matter of outing everything together, testing fill and breaking in. Then, a lot of listening, Only question is, what should be the first piece of music?! Probably Machine Gun by Hendrix, the live Band of Gypsys version. Or maybe Time by Pink Floyd, or Come Together, or maybe... Geoff Edited December 2, 2015 by Geoff Millar 1
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