awty Posted November 16, 2015 Posted November 16, 2015 and an amp build, Is that the same one you posted a couple of month ago? See you have added a IEC. You have too many projects.
Guest Posted November 16, 2015 Posted November 16, 2015 Hi @@awty Yep, same amp, now on the operating table, with a plan and 99% of the parts. If all goes well will start drilling tapping and bolting this morning. Been quiet at my Business so will make the most of the time. Yes an awful lot of work if you cannot afford others to do it. It is what an old Trade likes too, plenty to do. Christmas I can kick back and enjoy it all me thinks. 6 months of work, a small price to pay for what will eventuate.
Newman Posted November 17, 2015 Posted November 17, 2015 Any difference in sound, Newman? LOL I'm not that good. Haven't seriously tried. I mainly wanted to beef up the wire thickness and longevity. The cap is in series with the driver and the electrolytic's leads are particularly feeble. The 10x twisted wiring is now comparable to the speaker cable gauge. And I don't have to consider the possible drying out of wet electrolyte as the years pass. The AC currents to this driver are minuscule, but it's a good driver so I didn't want to do it a disservice. 1
mwhouston Posted November 17, 2015 Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) The Class D amp I built some time back based on the Easter Technologies T4 180W amp module ("Audiophile") has a lot of gain. I found it difficult to use with my tube preamp, high efficiency Beyma 12" speakers. Overall sensitivity too high. I have added a 28 step stepper attenuation. The type which only ever has two resistors in cct. at anyone time. These are not cheap at $80 each but are extremely well made. This is the first one I have ever installed. What I really want to do is remove the preamp and go direct from source (CD\media player (oppo 95 Audiophile) and TT) to power amp. But I needed at least two selectable inputs, something I generally never do with power amps. While the bonnet was off I removed the two quality RCAs and replaced then with four far more expensive solid copper and rhodium types. These were the same I used in Tengu and Salix builds. To make it all selectable I added a small switch which sits between the RCAs. Untried as of yet tomorrow I will remove preamp etc and install Audiophile and see how it all works. Lets see 180W Class D with 98db efficient speakers which can take 700W!!! Could be loud. images to follow. http://retro-thermionic.blogspot.com.au/2015/04/180w-tripath-class-d-power-amp.html Edited November 17, 2015 by mwhouston
betocool Posted November 17, 2015 Posted November 17, 2015 The Class D amp I built some time back based on the Easter Technologies T4 180W amp module ("Audiophile") has a lot of gain. I found it difficult to use with my tube preamp, high efficiency Beyma 12" speakers. Overall sensitivity too high. I have added a 28 step stepper attenuation. The type which only ever has two resistors in cct. at anyone time. These are not cheap at $80 each but are extremely well made. This is the first one I have ever installed. What I really want to do is remove the preamp and go direct from source (CD\media player (oppo 95 Audiophile) and TT) to power amp. But I needed at least two selectable inputs, something I generally never do with power amps. While the bonnet was off I removed the two quality RCAs and replaced then with four far more expensive solid copper and rhodium types. These were the same I used in Tengu and Salix builds. To make it all selectable I added a small switch which sits between the RCAs. Untried as of yet tomorrow I will remove preamp etc and install Audiophile and see how it all works. Lets see 180W Class D with 98db efficient speakers which can take 700W!!! Could be loud. images to follow. http://retro-thermionic.blogspot.com.au/2015/04/180w-tripath-class-d-power-amp.html And you're the one giving me grief about "breadboarding".... pfffft!!! Actually, your builds have... errrr... "influenced" my style....
Guest Muon Posted November 17, 2015 Posted November 17, 2015 Holy crap, that makes my electronic dabblings look very safe... I guess the difference is he knows what he's doing hahahahah Haha Yeah Does he Love how the plate/s of the 833A are red. Those tubes have a max plate voltage of 3000 I think
mwhouston Posted November 18, 2015 Posted November 18, 2015 (edited) Here are some images of my upgraded DIY Class D T4 (Tripath) amp ("Audiophile"). Upgrade includes 4 X solid copper and Teflon RCAs, an input selector switch, 28 step step attenuator and 4oz solid brass gold plated knob. Amp sounds excellent driving my 98db effcient 12" Concenrtic Beymas. Tube preamp also. Edited November 18, 2015 by mwhouston 4
awty Posted November 18, 2015 Posted November 18, 2015 Here are some images of my upgraded DIY Class D T4 (Tripath) amp ("Audiophile"). Upgrade includes 4 X solid copper and Teflon RCAs, an input selector switch, 28 step step attenuator and 4oz solid brass gold plated knob. Amp sounds excellent driving my 98db effcient 12" Concenrtic Beymas. Tube preamp also. What are the rca plugs coated with to stop them from tarnishing? And where do you buy them from? 1
mwhouston Posted November 18, 2015 Posted November 18, 2015 What are the rca plugs coated with to stop them from tarnishing? And where do you buy them from? They aren't coated. Not sure if they will tarnish. I get them through a pommy company. I'll chase it up.
awty Posted November 18, 2015 Posted November 18, 2015 They look highly polished. Guess if they are connected then that would keep the air off them. Wouldn't be good if you lived close to the beach, but thats the same with anything less than 24 carat gold. Look good, bloody expensive though. Wonder how hard it would be to make your own, must give it a go some time. 1
mwhouston Posted November 19, 2015 Posted November 19, 2015 They look highly polished. Guess if they are connected then that would keep the air off them. Wouldn't be good if you lived close to the beach, but thats the same with anything less than 24 carat gold. Look good, bloody expensive though. Wonder how hard it would be to make your own, must give it a go some time. Time? None of that any of us appear to have. I guess you will not make them. Priorities we can manage. Not time.
mwhouston Posted November 22, 2015 Posted November 22, 2015 I had made two Xovers for the high efficiency Beymas. The ones currently in use Xover at 1600Hz where the originals Xover at 2KHz. When using the Tripath Class D amp with them I found them occasionally shouty on some tracks. Moving to the 1600Hz Xovers removed that problem. Also with the second pair of Xovers the tweeter section had a 3rd order roll-off (-18db\octave). The woofer section only rolled of at 6db\octave. I have now improved he woofer section roll-off by making it 2nd order (-12dc\octave). I had temporarily rigged this at the back of the speaker but now the Xovers have been modified. This has made a big improvement to the speakers making them sound very accurate with no sign of resonance, breakup or shoutiness. 2
awty Posted November 22, 2015 Posted November 22, 2015 Isn't one of the inductors supposed to be on its side? Not any criticism just been pulled up on that myself. Great work btw wish i could get my head around crossover design. 1
mwhouston Posted November 22, 2015 Posted November 22, 2015 Isn't one of the inductors supposed to be on its side? Not any criticism just been pulled up on that myself. Great work btw wish i could get my head around crossover design. You could but effect is minimal.
Owen Y Posted November 22, 2015 Posted November 22, 2015 (edited) Isn't one of the inductors supposed to be on its side? Not any criticism just been pulled up on that myself. This is a handy recommended configs for inductors/coils, esp xovers: Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/ Edited November 22, 2015 by Owen Y 3
Owen Y Posted November 22, 2015 Posted November 22, 2015 RCA connectors - most of these bits are made OEM in China these days. One good source I have used in the past is HK supplier, vt4c.com, good pricing, service. Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/ 1
mwhouston Posted November 22, 2015 Posted November 22, 2015 RCA connectors - most of these bits are made OEM in China these days. One good source I have used in the past is HK supplier, vt4c.com, good pricing, service. Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/ The RCAs look good.
mwhouston Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 Silly me. You would think after 45 years in the business I would be aware of every silly thing I am capable of. But not so. I found my Beymas too bright with my Tripath T4 Class D amp so I made some -7db pads for the tweeters. They should have been -7 with the tweeter section being 105db efficient and the 12" woofer section 98db. But for some reason the pads I had in place were -4db. With any of my tube amps (three at the moment) this gave a little sparkle to the top end. The tweeter section being just a little bright and tube amps sweetly mellow at the top. Bring in the 180W Tripath Class D and now everything is too bright.I made some -7db pads. Now everything sounds better but maybe too better. I have the parts to make a -6db pad for the tweeter. This should bring back a hint of sparkle to the top without sounding bright. It gets worse. With the -7db pads in initially and now my new EL84 amp providing the "loud" I decided to install the -4db pads. I started the afternoon's listening with the -7pad in place but swapped it for the -4db pad part way through the CD. But I had installed the pad backwards. It was now about a -20db pad across the tweeter. No wonder the music sounded dull and muted. Fortunately I realised what was wrong but not before six tracks were played. I re-fitted the pad and enjoyed a bright and spirited classical afternoon.
Newman Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 Silly you LOL. Fortunately, most of my more severe audio stupidities have been eradicated through intense psychotherapy. My wife still entertains guest with the story of how she was woken from her sleep by a dull explosion elsewhere in the house, where I was building an amplifier. I have no idea what she is talking about. 4
henry218 Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 how she was woken from her sleep by a dull explosion elsewhere in the house, where I was building an amplifier. I have no idea what she is talking about. GOLD! 1
Guest Posted November 26, 2015 Posted November 26, 2015 Couple of weeks on. Sound lounge is coming along nicely, acoustic auditorium plaster is up, fiddling around detailing before paint.
BursonAudio Posted November 27, 2015 Posted November 27, 2015 Guys, If you are into Op-amp Rolling, or you want to try something different feel free to visit our thread: http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/index.php/topic/92901-supreme-sound-audio-op-amp-upgrade/ We will be giving away some demo samples.
Guest Posted December 1, 2015 Posted December 1, 2015 Hi Guys, just finished setting the plaster in the new sound lounge, the ceiling filter has a center frequency of 220Hz. Well worthwhile, has made a very audible difference particularly with bass response. Tight fast, little or no reverberation with these mid frequencies. Higher frequencies have retained all of their energy and presence. Bleed through of SPL, to the rest of the house has been dramatically reduced, which was a major part of design so as I can enjoy 50dB while others are sleeping. All I have to do now is fit out and paint. Paul Spencer (thread Owner and Acoustic Engineer) will be here tomorrow at about 6:30am expecting the horn system to be operational, eeeek, I have about 8 hours of work to do before then. There is still quite an amount of selective filter treatment to go in with plans to make it look beautiful using hand made Thai Royal Silk stretched around a pine frame, backed by 25mm thick yellow fiber glass bats, 3 x 1m above hung 100mm parallel with cieling. The silk can be seen in rear of room photo Plenty to do but there is a fairly big light at the end now, not a tiny one Very Pleased with the visual and acoustic result Time to dig deep, roll out the carpet, reinstall the shelves and put together an 8 way horn system for tomorrow.
mwhouston Posted December 9, 2015 Posted December 9, 2015 I currently have five DIY amps I can roll; 6V6 SE UL, EL84 SE UL, 300B SE Triode, EAT 180W T4 Tripath and IRS2092 250W Class D. I'm rolling between the T4, the IRS and the EL84 at the moment. Thanks to bananas on the speaker leads and nicely fitting RCAs I can roll one in and one out in minutes. Also I can leave them all on so its more of a hot swap. No warm-up time. Speakers are my 12" high efficiency concentric Beymas, on 12" stereo sub-woofers, tube preamp and Oppo 95 Audiophile. So far the T4 appears to work the best with rest of the gear. But more listening to do. 2
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