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Posted

Just finishing off a SNA member's La Gitana tube MM phono preamp.sound good, rich. Need 100hours play to relax.

Also got all the Epoxy Enamel paint for another members top plate and base for a Bottlehead headphone preamp. Busy day. Now a beer and DT770s serving up some tunes through an Oatley Class A FET headphone amp.

Posted (edited)

10W Class D?

Yep.

eBay $5 special.

Got a couple for a laugh when I bought some other stuff a while back.

:)

Have a bunch of little drivers here from various iPod docks etc which should give a nice tinny sound

:P

Edited by Dirty_vinylpusher
Posted

You find you only get a watt or two before they get a little strained. Compact but.

Yeh I'm not expecting much from it haha.

It'll just be a cool little box that makes a bit of noise

:)

These sound ok with it

post-145321-0-38559200-1451971642_thumb.

Posted (edited)

Found this PVC box and slapped them in that with some silicone

It'll sit nicely inside the case behind some mesh

post-145321-0-36988800-1451977516_thumb.

That's all for now

:)

Edited by Dirty_vinylpusher
Posted

and...what does that mean exactly??? :D

.....that there are metal filings attracted to the magnet on the driver.....

....and that I need to clean the work bench before I put drivers on it.....

Posted

Go back on your medication.

You say that....but I reckon this will sound better than whatever those drivers came out of originally

:D

Posted

You should know by now that I do things a bit.....differently

;)

Posted (edited)

Hello

@@andyr @@mwhouston @@awty, you Guys seem to know a bit about TT  :P

 

Just after a little help with a head shell mod as I am a nervous nooby.

 

Have a nice second hand wood body Clear Audio MM Cart and head shell to add to the Micro Seiki Accessory list. The stock shure and the Clear Audio look roughly the same height and length possibly near the same weight. The Micro's tone arm has an easy height (horizontal) adjustment.

 

The problem is I need to drill 2 x 4 mm holes in the cartridge base plate as the wood body of the new cart has threads in it necessitating mounting from the back, unlike the sure which is mounted from the front, is it "normal practice" to do this ?

Is it Ok to use the 2 nylon shipping bolts (came with the new cart) to mount the Clear Audio cart, or should I use steel ones ?

 

I can drill the holes accurately in the base plate and the heads of the bolts will fit inside the head shell Ok. No actual damage to the base plate, just 2 neat new holes where indicated next to the threaded holes.

 

Will be able to adjust the projetction perfectly, same as the other shure cart and head shell.

 

Any advice greatly appreciated, looking forward to testing it.

 

Cheers 

post-149865-0-21010300-1451991433_thumb.

Edited by Guest
Posted

Sorry, Matt - that is such a weird cartridge mounting setup (that I haven't encountered before) that I can't offer any suggestions.  :(

 

In my world:

  • the headshell has slots in it, so you can slide the cartridge fore and aft, to align it correctly.
  • the finger lift is integral to the headshell - not a separate piece which is bolted on.
  • the bolt heads go on top of the headshell slot and either fit into threaded holes in the cart body ... or have washers & nuts underneath a flange in the cart body.

 

Good luck,

 

Andy

Posted

Sorry, Matt - that is such a weird cartridge mounting setup (that I haven't encountered before) that I can't offer any suggestions.  :(

 

In my world:

  • the headshell has slots in it, so you can slide the cartridge fore and aft, to align it correctly.
  • the finger lift is integral to the headshell - not a separate piece which is bolted on.
  • the bolt heads go on top of the headshell slot and either fit into threaded holes in the cart body ... or have washers & nuts underneath a flange in the cart body.

 

Good luck,

 

Andy

Thanks, sorry I am from the 45 yo TT school, grinder, drill and file.

Cheers

:D

Posted

I have no experience with that type of head shell either.

Put the question up in the turntable forum someone will know the best way.

Cartridge bolts shouldn't be affected by magnets so they are usually aloy. Nylon should be ok to.

Sorry not much help.

Posted (edited)

Thanks @@awty

I'm thinking "just do it and be done" before someone persuades me to get rid of my "ol Girl" and update

Bit excited as I had the new SH cart under the microscope and the elliptical diamond looks perfect, new is worth more than the whole TT  :P

 

Tar, for the screws tip.

Matt

Edited by Guest

Posted (edited)

Finished inside. Led to go on and the top of enclosure to drill some big holes. Had a listen all OK.

choked PS and two stage filtering. A lot of gain.

post-108489-0-91848400-1451995389_thumb.

Edited by mwhouston
  • Like 2
Posted

Finished inside. Led to go on and the top of enclosure to drill some big holes. Had a listen all OK.

choked PS and two stage filtering. A lot of gain.

Dear Mark

Please don't put a blue LED on it, dim yellow (like the Mimic) or green, Please

: :P , Don't see any of your signature ferite beads on the wire RCA's

 

Love your work

Posted

Don't think it would make any difference either if you carefully drilled (not grind) the cartridge thread out. Threaded cartridges just make it easier to adjust on conventional head shells, but maybe worth checking in case there is better solution.

Posted (edited)

Dear Mark

Please don't put a blue LED on it, dim yellow (like the Mimic) or green, Please

: :P , Don't see any of your signature ferite beads on the wire RCA's

Love your work

Look hard at the left RACs. The beads are there.

Yes dull amber led.

Edited by mwhouston
Posted

DIY ing the old micro head shell tonight. 

Crikey back to work. Holidays too short.

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