Guest guru Posted January 19, 2016 Posted January 19, 2016 @@guru Very impressed. What a great build of highend parts. I have used the AN Silver PIO caps in a MC stage. At $950 a pair I still think they are great value. Love your whole build. I mount my power tarnnies and chokes and OPTs on split rubber grommets to control vibration. Also I have built a number of preamp which have no internal hookup wire. As you have done, one components connects directly with the next. I call this component-2-component wiring. It goes one better than point-2-point. What of your PS? I've never thought of that terminology before but it makes sense. I've used the rubber insulation concept for years in other projects and it works well. This line stage will sit in an existing build pre with the usual 3 valve power supply, 6x5, ecl82 and OB2. I have all the other components to do the dax next as the output stage of that is almost identical. The silver caps sit between the 12au7 and the 7044 tubes. The output is transformer coupled.
acg Posted January 19, 2016 Posted January 19, 2016 They are small steatite insulators that are used to minimise the heat transfer from one resistor to another. Funny enough they used to be made in a factory just around the corner from me which doesn't exist anymore as the owner sold the land for unit developments. Yep ,we need more of those little things to balance out the pages. Where did you get them from guru? Or are they leftovers from your neighbour?
hochopeper Posted January 19, 2016 Posted January 19, 2016 They are small steatite insulators that are used to minimise the heat transfer from one resistor to another. Funny enough they used to be made in a factory just around the corner from me which doesn't exist anymore as the owner sold the land for unit developments. Yep ,we need more of those little things to balance out the pages. Interesting. They look cool.Not sure heat transfer would be a big drama for resistors in a line stage though? Especially with giant resistors. (I'm used to soldering - by hand - resistors that are 1mm long for line level gear)
mwhouston Posted January 19, 2016 Posted January 19, 2016 I've never thought of that terminology before but it makes sense. I've used the rubber insulation concept for years in other projects and it works well. This line stage will sit in an existing build pre with the usual 3 valve power supply, 6x5, ecl82 and OB2. I have all the other components to do the dax next as the output stage of that is almost identical. The silver caps sit between the 12au7 and the 7044 tubes. The output is transformer coupled. I made up the component-2-compontent term. If I want a more 60s sound from valve amps I use carbon film resistors and point-2-point wiring with all components on tag boards. Then you need lots of multi-strand hookup wire. I also use solder from the 60s which has copper in it. I do these little things to ensure the build is closer to what would have been done back then. Even resin valve sockets. When doing a modern build; component-2-component, WBT silver solder, metal film resistors, ceramic valve sockets. As you would be aware all these little detailed changes build to effect the final sound. As I can see with your build, it gets down to attention to detail.
Guest guru Posted January 19, 2016 Posted January 19, 2016 Interesting. They look cool.Not sure heat transfer would be a big drama for resistors in a line stage though? Especially with giant resistors. (I'm used to soldering - by hand - resistors that are 1mm long for line level gear) I think the heat issue is more related to proximity of components to valves as heat sources. I would have given up years ago on 1mm resistors, the eyesight and the constant stabbing in frustration.
Guest guru Posted January 19, 2016 Posted January 19, 2016 Where did you get them from guru? Or are they leftovers from your neighbour? I think the name was KCG insulators in croydon NSW or something like that. They made electrical insulators of all description and these were one of the range. I looked on line years ago and they were available from the states and around the world and also just around the corner. The owner thought I was a nut job but was still happy for me to buy a kilo which was the minimum bulk. Shame it's gone.
Guest Posted January 19, 2016 Posted January 19, 2016 @@guru what are the things around the leg of the resistor? I think I'd better get some SMD back in this thread to keep some balance Tried that with that Holton SS A/B mosfet but the valves keep coming.
hochopeper Posted January 19, 2016 Posted January 19, 2016 Tried that with that Holton SS A/B mosfet but the valves keep coming. I've got some of those here (2xnxv203) but I was thinking about some SMD that I soldered myself ...
Guest guru Posted January 19, 2016 Posted January 19, 2016 I made up the component-2-compontent term. If I want a more 60s sound from valve amps I use carbon film resistors and point-2-point wiring with all components on tag boards. Then you need lots of multi-strand hookup wire. I also use solder from the 60s which has copper in it. I do these little things to ensure the build is closer to what would have been done back then. Even resin valve sockets. When doing a modern build; component-2-component, WBT silver solder, metal film resistors, ceramic valve sockets. As you would be aware all these little detailed changes build to effect the final sound. As I can see with your build, it gets down to attention to detail. I'm not using WBT solder on this as I want it to be factory spec so original manufacturer silver solder. Less flux splutter so less cleaning and you have to buff the solder joins to bring them up nice and shiny but not to much effort. Any additional silver wire used is from George Cardas,solid core drawn through diamond dies as it leaves a mirror like surface, again bought years ago and still bright and untarnished even with no coating. I bought 3 kgs of WBT solder, the stuff with the lead in it. should see me out. Cheers
davewantsmoore Posted January 20, 2016 Posted January 20, 2016 (edited) Finally converted my rear speakers to use balanced connectors between the DSP and amplifier. The amplifier has 6dB lower gain on it's XLR inputs. Edit: Oooh, grainycam. Neutrik + Belden 1904A + phoenix terminal blocks. Edited January 20, 2016 by davewantsmoore 4
Guest Posted January 22, 2016 Posted January 22, 2016 Uh-oh......he's at it again...... Mismatched drivers, random crossovers, underpowered amp.....
mwhouston Posted January 22, 2016 Posted January 22, 2016 I'm not using WBT solder on this as I want it to be factory spec so original manufacturer silver solder. Less flux splutter so less cleaning and you have to buff the solder joins to bring them up nice and shiny but not to much effort. Any additional silver wire used is from George Cardas,solid core drawn through diamond dies as it leaves a mirror like surface, again bought years ago and still bright and untarnished even with no coating. I bought 3 kgs of WBT solder, the stuff with the lead in it. should see me out. Cheers I paid $90 for my last roll of WBT silver years ago and still plenty left. It is my second roll. What I like about it is it solders perfectly and flows beautifully. Never any excess flux. In fact I don't think I have ever seen any extra flux at all. When making peamps, phono preamps, MC stages etc. I use it throughout. When making power amps I use normal solder on PS but silver on all audio paths.
Guest guru Posted January 22, 2016 Posted January 22, 2016 I paid $116 a roll for the solder. Tivoli were having a clean up and came across 6 rolls a couple of days before I called so luck was involved. Because of the eu ban on leaded solder except for exceptional service requirements, the cost of the leaded silver solder has hit $300 US a roll if you can find it hence why I bought all of them. I just use it on everything because it finishes so well. The solder for this is there own proprietary silver content just to keep it standard. Hopefully I will never need to buy solder ever again. It had taken 12 years to get through 3 rolls from my previous purchase and if I'm still making things in 24 years time, I'll cross that bridge and give Tivoli another call and see if they found some more.
Guest Posted January 22, 2016 Posted January 22, 2016 Finally converted my rear speakers to use balanced connectors between the DSP and amplifier. The amplifier has 6dB lower gain on it's XLR inputs. IMG_1169.JPG Edit: Oooh, grainycam. Neutrik + Belden 1904A + phoenix terminal blocks. Could have used a bit more heat shrink, to pretty those up a bit. Nice work Dave. How about the oven, how is the bun coming along, must be soon.
mwhouston Posted January 22, 2016 Posted January 22, 2016 I paid $116 a roll for the solder. Tivoli were having a clean up and came across 6 rolls a couple of days before I called so luck was involved. Because of the eu ban on leaded solder except for exceptional service requirements, the cost of the leaded silver solder has hit $300 US a roll if you can find it hence why I bought all of them. I just use it on everything because it finishes so well. The solder for this is there own proprietary silver content just to keep it standard. Hopefully I will never need to buy solder ever again. It had taken 12 years to get through 3 rolls from my previous purchase and if I'm still making things in 24 years time, I'll cross that bridge and give Tivoli another call and see if they found some more. Sounded like a good deal. Are Tivoli still carrying the WBT silver?
davewantsmoore Posted January 22, 2016 Posted January 22, 2016 Could have used a bit more heat shrink, to pretty those up a bit. Neh. Will all be in a rack in another room. Out of sight out of mind.
Guest guru Posted January 22, 2016 Posted January 22, 2016 Sounded like a good deal. Are Tivoli still carrying the WBT silver? The guy I spoke to said they were clearing all the stock hence the find. He indicated that there would be no more available but try your luck. The retail was around $160 or there abouts.
Guest guru Posted January 22, 2016 Posted January 22, 2016 I will put images up of the finished board tomorrow but this little exercise has been the single biggest positive transformation I have ever done to any piece of equipment since I first started doing this 30 years ago. passed the hair raising test easily. very pleased with the outcome. dac output board is next. will be running a full silver resistor system for the hifi show.
Guest guru Posted January 22, 2016 Posted January 22, 2016 bottlenecks are a good description. first cd I put on was max richters Vivaldi recomposed and when you can so clearly hear daniel hope and then the first and second violins like you have been moved from row r to row e in the angel recital hall, you realise the game has changed forever and this is not in my main system so I'm back on the learning curve again.
mwhouston Posted January 23, 2016 Posted January 23, 2016 (edited) This is my 4th Tripath Class D and my 7th Class D amp - one to go. I bought 4 X hifimediy EAT T4 modules and now they are all in amps. Of the 4 I built 3 are sold. This one is 15mins old but if I blink someone may be walking out the door with it. This build varies from all the others. No more vintage Sprague 15,000uf filter caps. Also for the first time shielded cable from inputs to step attenuator then to amp brd. All silver solder in audio path. 2 X 8,000uf 80V filter caps with 0.01uf poly and a 0.1uf poly for filtering. 35A rec. bridge 500VA 16A power tranni - 670W PS - 16A max 28 step, precision step attenuator (only 2 resistors in audio path at anyone time) - all metal body for low noise shock mounted amp brd. to control resonance and vibration 2U 19" rackmount black stiple steel and Al enclosure 4oz solid brass gold plated attenuator knob 2 X selectable inputs on heavy duty gold plated RCAs. RFI\EMI power filter Very heavy duty speaker binding posts 180W X 2 at 0.01% THD Amp brd. has speaker crowbar protection and under and over volts and current protection. Though new this amp sounds just great through my 98db efficient 12" concentric Beymas and stereo 12" sub-woofers. Best sounding class D - EVER!! Edited January 23, 2016 by mwhouston 4
Guest guru Posted January 26, 2016 Posted January 26, 2016 fully loaded with the final pair of blackgates squeezed in.
Guest guru Posted January 26, 2016 Posted January 26, 2016 very simple layout and not a lot of components but about $2K worth of bits.
Guest guru Posted January 26, 2016 Posted January 26, 2016 I use the circular tags for the wire hook up pads to make life easier for service.
Guest guru Posted January 26, 2016 Posted January 26, 2016 in situ and 12au7 followed by 7044 and then into coupling transformers.
Recommended Posts