Guest guru Posted January 26, 2016 Posted January 26, 2016 as for the sound difference, the pre isn't chopped liver and already used high quality componentry but the improvement is quite staggering. I am running it in a quite modest system of a 6.5 watt 300b power amp and a pair of 8 inch 2 ways with a standard integrated cd player and a mate was over yesterday and we fired it up cold and put on the necks "open" disc and the only description we could find to work was immersive, as in the sense of not listening to a recording but listening to a collection of sounds that hang in the air. the dynamics and decay of the piano along with the sense of pressure the keys are being played with is something special as is listening to track 11 on max Richter's recomposed by Vivaldi and hearing the stage floor of the concert hall resonate from the cello's and double bass. in other words, I can't wait to rebuild more components and see if I can push the system more. cheers.
mwhouston Posted January 26, 2016 Posted January 26, 2016 as for the sound difference, the pre isn't chopped liver and already used high quality componentry but the improvement is quite staggering. I am running it in a quite modest system of a 6.5 watt 300b power amp and a pair of 8 inch 2 ways with a standard integrated cd player and a mate was over yesterday and we fired it up cold and put on the necks "open" disc and the only description we could find to work was immersive, as in the sense of not listening to a recording but listening to a collection of sounds that hang in the air. the dynamics and decay of the piano along with the sense of pressure the keys are being played with is something special as is listening to track 11 on max Richter's recomposed by Vivaldi and hearing the stage floor of the concert hall resonate from the cello's and double bass. in other words, I can't wait to rebuild more components and see if I can push the system more. cheers. Good work.
Owen Y Posted January 27, 2016 Posted January 27, 2016 (edited) I think the heat issue is more related to proximity of components to valves as heat sources. I would have given up years ago on 1mm resistors, the eyesight and the constant stabbing in frustration. That's an all-out splendid build, guru. I like the plain phenolic board & pt-to-pt. Heat - I'd be more concerned about heat from the toobs, ie in v close proximity to the caps. (Being a linestage, I don't imagine you'd have shielded sockets?) BGN/NXs - from my limited time using the BG N/Nxs, I recall that they produce a dramatically different sound depending on orientation (yes non-polar I know). You may have noticed that they have one longer lead & IIRC they sounded best (more dynamic, extended) with this connected to lowest impedance or Gnd (I presume these are cathode bypasses?). Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/ Edited January 27, 2016 by Owen Y
andyr Posted January 27, 2016 Posted January 27, 2016 BGN/NXs - from my limited time using the BG N/Nxs, I recall that they produce a dramatically different sound depending on orientation (yes non-polar I know). You may have noticed that they have one longer lead & IIRC they sounded best (more dynamic, extended) with this connected to lowest impedance or Gnd (I presume these are cathode bypasses?). Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/ Did you ever try the 'Super E' (I think it was called) configuration - eg. instead of using 1x 10uF, use 2x4.7uF in parallel, so that the long lead of one is attached to the short lead of the other. Regards, Andy
Owen Y Posted January 27, 2016 Posted January 27, 2016 Andy - no, never tried this BG config. I have tended to move away from the BG 'sound' in recent yrs. But of course, each to his own.... Cheers, Owen Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/
Guest guru Posted January 27, 2016 Posted January 27, 2016 Most people have moved away from the BG sound because the prices now are just ridiculous and the number of fakes out there. I wouldn't use them in a circuit where they would be overkill and in this case, perfectly justifiable to use them. The standard board as supplied use silmic caps and works very well and 99% of people would be delighted and never change. I'm just tipping into that 1% band and what I have learn't in doing this rebuild has renewed my enthusiasm and that is a very good thing. I've never tried the super-E cap either even though I have the necessary bits, don't know if I ever will. Cheers.
andyr Posted January 27, 2016 Posted January 27, 2016 Most people have moved away from the BG sound because the prices now are just ridiculous and the number of fakes out there. I wouldn't use them in a circuit where they would be overkill and in this case, perfectly justifiable to use them. The standard board as supplied use silmic caps and works very well and 99% of people would be delighted and never change. I'm just tipping into that 1% band and what I have learn't in doing this rebuild has renewed my enthusiasm and that is a very good thing. I've never tried the super-E cap either even though I have the necessary bits, don't know if I ever will. Cheers. I thought they stopped production quite a few years ago? Andy
Guest guru Posted January 27, 2016 Posted January 27, 2016 they did Andy, about 8 years ago. I stockpiled a lot before they closed down and only use them now for the odd client and weird jobs like this.
Guest Posted January 27, 2016 Posted January 27, 2016 (edited) Old stock, and a sneak peak at a project starting off in a different direction for fun and from experience, now the lounge bit is completed. DC Powered amps, miniDSP 2x8 + miniDSP2x4 and phono pre. Ac powered TT and PC Buffer/DAC. Off grid, except for the ether-net and a NAS. The PSE's, and 6 x 18's, 2 as low bass. Should be a lot of fun as it comes together. Will come together fairly quickly, have 99% of the gear and another battery. Twin power supply, common negative. Some tin work, cables and termination. Edited January 28, 2016 by Guest
acg Posted January 27, 2016 Posted January 27, 2016 Old stock, and a sneak peak at a project starting off in a different direction for fun and from experience, now the lounge bit is completed. IMG_1994.JPG DC Powered amps, miniDSP 2x8 and phono pre. Ac powered TT and PC Buffer/DAC. Off grid, except for the ether-net and a NAS. IMG_1998.JPG The PSE's, and 6 x 18's, 2 as low bass. Should be a lot of fun as it comes together. Will come together fairly quickly, have 99% of the gear and another battery. Twin power supply, common negative. Some tin work, cables and termination. I like the way you think Matt. My bass solution will be the equivalent of almost 5 x 18" drivers (but I will do it with 16 x 10" drivers). There's "no replacement for displacement"...where have I heard that before?? 1
Guest Posted January 27, 2016 Posted January 27, 2016 (edited) I like the way you think Matt. My bass solution will be the equivalent of almost 5 x 18" drivers (but I will do it with 16 x 10" drivers). There's "no replacement for displacement"...where have I heard that before?? +1, the only draw backs are complexity and if you can spare the room for them all, another sinister one is long speaker cables if using subs behind the listening position. The other one I have heard before is "can you hear noise when you stick your head inside the horn ?" Taking that problem by the "horns" as well (attempted humour) with the quiet power supply. I already know what the amps are like in near field. and the source units, nice and quiet. Fun system. EDIT Thinking about it, would need a second minidsp 2x4 to individually EQ each sub and gain 2 spare channels for some, say, super tweeters, those ribbon ones. Throw some icing at the thing as well Edited January 27, 2016 by Guest
mwhouston Posted January 27, 2016 Posted January 27, 2016 I realise these are not DIY speakers but I thought the wood of one and the Stream Punk-ness of the other may inspire us DIYers. 5
Guest Posted January 27, 2016 Posted January 27, 2016 (edited) I realise these are not DIY speakers but I thought the wood of one and the Stream Punk-ness of the other may inspire us DIYers.I like the top one (minus the plastic gears ) and have been planning a similar style boombox with speakers connected to a center box via pipes and hoses etc, and old gauges.(Because I need more boomboxes.... ) During my dabblings with that big pressure gauge I think I found a way of making a gear setup like that turn with the music as well. Not back and forth like a VU gauge, just turn a bit at a time..... Maybe The second pic is cool. Looks like the maker put his monogram on it too down the bottom. Edited January 27, 2016 by Dirty_vinylpusher
Guest Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 Damn you, @@mwhouston for putting ideas in my head
Gordon Macfarlane Posted January 29, 2016 Posted January 29, 2016 (edited) Just finished re-purposing my Lampizator Amber board for use as a line stage: i bought the Amber board when it was on sale for 125 euro and added Deuland cast output caps and a Full music 274b mesh plate rectifier. I am using my DIYHIFISUPPLY electronic volume control in passive shunt mode to drive the Amber gain stage. Sound quality : Well it has only been playing for a couple of cd's but it sounds better to my ears using the volume control in J-FET buffered mode. Case is temporary until I can afford a new one that will house both the Electronic VC and the Amber board. Edited January 29, 2016 by Ozcall 4
koputai Posted January 29, 2016 Posted January 29, 2016 Christ @@Dirty_vinylpusher, I hope they're not all Swagelok fittings, whatever you're building would be worth a bomb! Cheers, Jason.
niss_man Posted January 29, 2016 Posted January 29, 2016 Just finished these for good mate. @@lebone A few things I wanted to try for this build. Bottom porting, tweeter waveguide and solidity of box(this is steel with ply outer glue with epoxy). Simon 8
mwhouston Posted January 29, 2016 Posted January 29, 2016 (edited) @@niss_man looks excellent. Edited January 29, 2016 by mwhouston 1
Guest Posted January 29, 2016 Posted January 29, 2016 Christ @@Dirty_vinylpusher, I hope they're not all Swagelok fittings, whatever you're building would be worth a bomb! Cheers, Jason. It is what it is..... A bunch of stainless pipe and fittings which I acquired....somewhere....some time ago
awty Posted January 29, 2016 Posted January 29, 2016 Just finished these for good mate. @@lebone A few things I wanted to try for this build. Bottom porting, tweeter waveguide and solidity of box(this is steel with ply outer glue with epoxy). DSC_0304.jpg DSC_0288.jpg DSC_0306.jpg DSC_0315.jpg DSC_0316.jpg DSC_0283.jpg DSC_0285.jpg Simon Nice build Simon A bit more conventional than your blue beauties. How much clearance do you need for down firing baffles?
thesavage Posted January 29, 2016 Posted January 29, 2016 Just finished these for good mate. @@lebone A few things I wanted to try for this build. Bottom porting, tweeter waveguide and solidity of box(this is steel with ply outer glue with epoxy). DSC_0304.jpg DSC_0288.jpg DSC_0306.jpg DSC_0315.jpg DSC_0316.jpg DSC_0283.jpg DSC_0285.jpg Simon Great idea niss_man how do they sound? I have often wondered why there aren't more steel speakers out there!
niss_man Posted January 29, 2016 Posted January 29, 2016 Nice build Simon A bit more conventional than your blue beauties. How much clearance do you need for down firing baffles? I used 75mm spacers on this build.
niss_man Posted January 29, 2016 Posted January 29, 2016 Great idea niss_man how do they sound? I have often wondered why there aren't more steel speakers out there!They sound great. The does make them pretty solid. The base of speaker is 16mm steel and base plate 20mm to keep the centre of gravity low as well. Sides and front 3mm steel. Then front with 2 layers of 18mm ply, sides with 1 layer ply and back with 1 layer ply and 6mm mdf. In all reality I think building a box out of thick mdf with heaps of bracing would do the same thing(don't think there would be much difference to the sound). 1
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