Ktony Posted March 29, 2021 Posted March 29, 2021 Original packaging included Photos: PLEASE READ If you include any reference to pricing whatsoever in this section (excluding RRP), your ad will not be approved If you are advertising multiple items, you must post one bulk price only, or post seperate ads for each item If you don't include photographs of the actual item being sold, your ad will not be approved You understand that a reasonable donation for selling fees is expected upon successful sale of your item - if you have previously sold items and not made a donation, your advertisement may not be approved. 3
williamvalve Posted March 30, 2021 Posted March 30, 2021 Darn cheap for this quality amp. May I ask what valves are used? Any rectifier valve? And what are the driver and power valves? Thanks. 1
Jehuty Posted March 31, 2021 Posted March 31, 2021 Looks like 6P1, 12AX7 and 5670 valves. Asking our resident expert @xlr8or for best valve options for those 3 valves? I think I am keen on the amp, an Australian built amp is quality. 1
evil c Posted March 31, 2021 Posted March 31, 2021 1 hour ago, Jehuty said: Looks like 6P1, 12AX7 and 5670 valves. Asking our resident expert @xlr8or for best valve options for those 3 valves? I think I am keen on the amp, an Australian built amp is quality. Can recommend Svetlana NOS 6P1 tubes from around the 70s & 80s. See plenty for sale in batches on eBay. GE 5670 are very good , again old NOS. 12AX7 - I've used the JJ high gain ECC803S with very good effect. I'd buy this one but already have an SP1 in the stable! 3 1
xlr8or Posted March 31, 2021 Posted March 31, 2021 (edited) On 31/03/2021 at 5:35 PM, Jehuty said: Looks like 6P1, 12AX7 and 5670 valves. Asking our resident expert @xlr8or for best valve options for those 3 valves? I think I am keen on the amp, an Australian built amp is quality. 1. Svetlana SED "flying wing C" symbol 6P1P-EV's from the 1970's (exact same as what @evil c has recommended) 2. Western Electric square getter black anode plate 396A's from the mid 1940's 3. Brimar angled bent rectangular getter single notch 17mm long black anode plate 12AX7's from the early 1950's. Edit: Reference photos added. Edited April 2, 2021 by xlr8or 4 1
Jehuty Posted April 1, 2021 Posted April 1, 2021 On 31/03/2021 at 7:01 PM, evil c said: Can recommend Svetlana NOS 6P1 tubes from around the 70s & 80s. See plenty for sale in batches on eBay. GE 5670 are very good , again old NOS. 12AX7 - I've used the JJ high gain ECC803S with very good effect. I'd buy this one but already have an SP1 in the stable! Thank you Mr. Evil. I got the information about the valves from your previous sale. You said you got one in your stable, did you ever sell yours? Any chance for internal pics? @evil c @Ktony I read that it's point to point wiring but I've never seen it. Cheers, Will
Jehuty Posted April 1, 2021 Posted April 1, 2021 On 31/03/2021 at 8:43 PM, xlr8or said: 1. Svetlana SED "wing C" symbol 6P1P-EV's from the 1970's (exact same as what @evil c has recommended) 2. Western Electric square getter black anode plate 396A's from the mid 1940's 3. Brimar angled bent rectangular getter single notch 17mm long black anode plate 12AX7's from the early 1950's. Edit: Reference photos added. Thanks Kirk. I wonder if you explore the universe to get all these wonderful information about valves, haha... I understand that the long plate 12AX7 is expensive to get, particularly Mullards if I am not wrong, so normally I'd go for 5751 due to lower gain and also price. Any comment on your personal preference between 12AX7/ECC83/5751? Cheers mate.
xlr8or Posted April 1, 2021 Posted April 1, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, Jehuty said: I understand that the long plate 12AX7 is expensive to get, particularly Mullards if I am not wrong, so normally I'd go for 5751 due to lower gain and also price. Any comment on your personal preference between 12AX7/ECC83/5751? I tried rolling many different 5751 brands/varieties including the famous Sylvania 1950's TMBP for a few years and couldn't live with them. I found most to be excessively bright and analytical sounding in comparison to the 12AX7. The only exception to this was the Raytheon windmill getter from the 1960's, which I found to have the highest degree of warmth. My second preference is the GE TMBP from the very early 1950's, which has 4 unique silver clips on the top mica plate. However, this tube starts to suffer the brightness problem mentioned above. I reverted back to the 12AX7 and have rolled them for some 10 years now. Some personal favourites include: Amperex mC2 Heerlen, Holland double notch 17mm long grey plate with 45-degree foil strip D getter from 1956; Marconi Italy mid to late 1950's single notch (not double notch) long black plate square getter; 2z Phillips Monza Italy from double notch 17mm long grey plate with 45-degree getter from 1956-1958; Brimar Rochester UK full short box toasted back plate square getter from the early to mid 1950's; 1600 version 3 series Mullard Blackburn UK double notch 17mm long grey plate goal post square getter from mid 1954; mC1 B5A/BA5 to B5F double notch 17mm long grey plate goal post square getter with T shaped bar underneath bottom mica from early to mid 1955; 640 series Mullard Mitcham UK full short box grey plate box frame supported diamond square getter from late 1954 to mid 1955; and, 641 series Mullard Mitcham UK full short box grey plate box frame supported diamond square getter from mid 1955 to early 1956. Phew .... Edited April 1, 2021 by xlr8or 1 1 1
Neo Posted April 1, 2021 Posted April 1, 2021 7 hours ago, Jehuty said: Thank you Mr. Evil. I got the information about the valves from your previous sale. You said you got one in your stable, did you ever sell yours? Any chance for internal pics? @evil c @Ktony I read that it's point to point wiring but I've never seen it. Cheers, Will Neo 1 1
Jehuty Posted April 1, 2021 Posted April 1, 2021 2 hours ago, xlr8or said: I tried rolling many different 5751 brands/varieties including the famous Sylvania 1950's TMBP for a few years and couldn't live with them. I found most to be excessively bright and analytical sounding in comparison to the 12AX7. The only exception to this was the Raytheon windmill getter from the 1960's, which I found to have the highest degree of warmth. My second preference is the GE TMBP from the very early 1950's, which has 4 unique silver clips on the top mica plate. However, this tube starts to suffer the brightness problem mentioned above. I reverted back to the 12AX7 and have rolled them for some 10 years now. Some personal favourites include: Amperex mC2 Heerlen, Holland double notch 17mm long grey plate with 45-degree foil strip D getter from 1956; Marconi Italy mid to late 1950's single notch (not double notch) long black plate square getter; 2z Phillips Monza Italy from double notch 17mm long grey plate with 45-degree getter from 1956-1958; Brimar Rochester UK full short box toasted back plate square getter from the early to mid 1950's; 1600 version 3 series Mullard Blackburn UK double notch 17mm long grey plate goal post square getter from mid 1954; mC1 B5A/BA5 to B5F double notch 17mm long grey plate goal post square getter with T shaped bar underneath bottom mica from early to mid 1955; 640 series Mullard Mitcham UK full short box grey plate box frame supported diamond square getter from late 1954 to mid 1955; and, 641 series Mullard Mitcham UK full short box grey plate box frame supported diamond square getter from mid 1955 to early 1956. Phew .... What a generous response! And wow! What a fun and educative rolling experience you got there. There you go peeps. One of the perks having a valve amp like this one is that you'll always have fun and not to mention they are beautiful to look at (and sound wonderful too!). Thanks again. We are very lucky to have you here. Have a wonderful and safe Easter break. 1
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