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Posted

Just listening to weather reports around the country 

Here in locked down by tweet Hastings Point barefooted and T shirted

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  • Like 5

Posted

Lockdown Project.
Hasselblad mirrorless X1D to the Toyo 5x4 Large format.

I purchased a X1D adapter from B&H and ended up costing close to $300 delivered

I can't get the lens close enough to the sensor. Focus is close to the lens. I tried the 47mm and 90mm lens on it and the 90mm was the best. 
How was the image quality from the old lenses? wasn't as sharp and contrast isn't as good as the modern hasselblad HC & XC lenses.

Shift works well but tilting was as good as the sensor was too small for the movements I wanted. 

The other issues: 

-The sensor was full of dust after this trial.

-Had to use the electronic shutter and wasn't able to flash sync. Maybe if I set a long exposure and use the shutter in the lens to sync with the flash it  will work but just seems to much hassle.



 

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  • Like 1
Posted
23 hours ago, Ivan Lee said:

Lockdown Project.
Hasselblad mirrorless X1D to the Toyo 5x4 Large format.

I purchased a X1D adapter from B&H and ended up costing close to $300 delivered

I can't get the lens close enough to the sensor. Focus is close to the lens. I tried the 47mm and 90mm lens on it and the 90mm was the best. 
How was the image quality from the old lenses? wasn't as sharp and contrast isn't as good as the modern hasselblad HC & XC lenses.

Shift works well but tilting was as good as the sensor was too small for the movements I wanted. 

The other issues: 

-The sensor was full of dust after this trial.

-Had to use the electronic shutter and wasn't able to flash sync. Maybe if I set a long exposure and use the shutter in the lens to sync with the flash it  will work but just seems to much hassle.



 

IMG_7705.JPG

IMG_7708.JPG

The sensor plain is pushed back on the adaptor. You will need a recessed lens holder and wide angle bagged bellows to be able to get a wide angle lens to get close enough to the film plain. You should be ok on 130mm lens and longer.

Lens is 60 years old and designed for 4x5 film, plenty sharp but not as contrasty as a modern lens.

Digital film backs were made so profession photographers could make digital photos and still use their old equipment.

Best application for the camera is to use film. I have about a dozen large format cameras of different film sizes.

 

Posted
2 hours ago, awty said:

The sensor plain is pushed back on the adaptor. You will need a recessed lens holder and wide angle bagged bellows to be able to get a wide angle lens to get close enough to the film plain. You should be ok on 130mm lens and longer.

Lens is 60 years old and designed for 4x5 film, plenty sharp but not as contrasty as a modern lens.

Digital film backs were made so profession photographers could make digital photos and still use their old equipment.

Best application for the camera is to use film. I have about a dozen large format cameras of different film sizes.

 

back of the lens is already touching the camera. bag wasn’t necessary.  unless i get another lens with flatter rear. 

 

i’ll keep working on it.

 

 

I don’t think i will go back to large format film but will still use my Mamiya RZ now and then with some fuji instant.

 

i did have a H4D with a digi back but hated the idea of having to shoot with laptop to power the back. Phaseone backs have own power supply.

 

 

Posted
17 minutes ago, Ivan Lee said:

back of the lens is already touching the camera. bag wasn’t necessary.  unless i get another lens with flatter rear. 

 

i’ll keep working on it.

 

 

I don’t think i will go back to large format film but will still use my Mamiya RZ now and then with some fuji instant.

 

i did have a H4D with a digi back but hated the idea of having to shoot with laptop to power the back. Phaseone backs have own power supply.

 

 

You should be good for 130mm focal length and longer in 4x5 lenses. 

RZ has great lenses, probably better suited for digital sensors. 

Posted

After a few beers decided to check low light performance of my Canon 6D with the EF 70-200 f4 Lens. Really hard to nail focus in this light, please keep in mind I'm locked down and had 6 Coopers Sparkling Ale...

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Posted (edited)

Some pics walking around Altona. 
 

I’m not sure I’m used to film yet. I don’t seem to get the nice contrast that other pros seem to get. Not sure if it’s because I’m messing up the focus or whether that’s just the quality you get on an old camera, or whether my composition just flat out sucks.

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Edited by deviltoob
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
13 minutes ago, lenticularis said:

I reckon those are all pretty good for film. I’ve also been using film again for a few years…often wondering why I bother


This is my third roll back into it.

 

It is kind of odd. I look at all these guys shooting film on youtube and I love the vintage look and the grain etc. but when you do it yourself it’s a totally different feeling. You have to get used it I think and the need to constantly experiment. Not sure I like Kodak Gold 200 that much so I might move onto other types.

Edited by deviltoob

Posted (edited)

Are you processing your own colour film images? I assume not, it’s a very complex operation.  So you’re probably relying on someone else’s crappy automated processing. To get the best out of film you need to print it yourself. 
shooting a roll of colour film and getting a commercial lab to print it will always be disappointing. 
 

This is a huge advantage of digital - anyone can learn to process an image however they like. 

Edited by buddyev
Posted
1 minute ago, buddyev said:

Are you processing your own colour film images? I assume not, it’s a very complex operation.  So you’re probably relying on someone else’s crappy automated processing. To get the best out of film you need to print it yourself. 


No. Was thinking about it but can’t see how I can do a better job with a DIY setup than the lab with a Frontier/Noritsu setup. I guess I got the negs so can try later on. From what I can see the lab does a bit of correction.

Posted

No, it’s not realistic to process colour at home. 

Why not shoot transparencies? You’re in complete control of how the image will look by your exposure. It’s a different approach from either digital or negatives. There’s no latitude and it really teaches you the finer points of exposure. 
I can see the fun in  B&W - you have control of the whole thing, but TBH shooting colour negative seems quite pointless to me. 

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Posted
10 minutes ago, deviltoob said:


the lab with a Frontier/Noritsu setup. 

Ikigai? I dropped off two rolls of Provia 100F at their place today. Glad they are in my 5km circle.

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Posted
14 minutes ago, DarkTree said:

Ikigai? I dropped off two rolls of Provia 100F at their place today. Glad they are in my 5km circle.


Yeah. They’re pretty good. I had this roll sent back the same day they said they received it.

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