Dr.Funk Posted July 21, 2021 Posted July 21, 2021 Hi Guys, I am keen to build an ultrasonic record cleaner. I found a unit that seems to fit the bill, 6.5ltrs and with a full or half power output (read that it was better to clean for longer but more gentle) $290. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/124766161136 Does anyone know where I can get the rest of the gear from, either as a kit or as individual components? Motor, power pack, clamp and shaft etc When I search eBay for Kits, they are ridiculously expensive, upwards of US$600. I have the skills to fabricate a support structure to clamp on to the ultrasonic tank and hold the chosen motor assembly. I found this motor with slow revolutions https://www.ebay.com/itm/271944207184 but I would need to get a longer shaft on to it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Dr.Funk
Ian McP Posted July 22, 2021 Posted July 22, 2021 Discovered recently, from Turntable Talk group on FB. I reckon this must be the end “solution”! < Denis Billen · StJososSupoly 1lns8foSc atg uo1s0:oto3rned6 diaAM · Here’s what I consider the « ultimate record cleaning method ». Background: I have a PhD in organic chemistry and have been cooking drugs for a living for the past 20 years. Think Heisenberg in Breaking Bad, only legal. I have been researching and developing the very best record cleaning method for as long as I have been cooking drugs and worked with high end lab equipment in ultra clean environments. I have experimented with pretty much every method that is available including all the usual suspects « spin clean », « vinyl vac », VPI, record doctor, you name it. I have compared methods and combined this research with my extensive ultra clean lab experience. The method I describe here is the simplest and cheapest method you could use, yet the most scientifically correct; once you invest in the right equipment. The chemical you need (singular) only costs a few bucks and the whole thing will last you a lifetime. Incidentally this method is considered the industry standard, used in most pharmaceutical and high end engineering environments (think NASA). Would you like your vinyl to sound their best? Read on. 1. Use a ~12 inch wide Ultrasonic bath (about 1.5 gallons or 6L water). 20-30 min time max. Cold (room temperature) deionized water. 0.01-0.05% tergitol NP-40 (I.e. 0.5-2ml for a 1 galon bath). No alcohol, no other additives, no other non-sense. Just as important: have the spinner on the slowest setting. Only 1 rotation every 6-7 minutes. Or 3-4 rotations over one ~20 min session. The slowest is the best. So slow that the vinyl area not in the bath never really seems to get wet. It your vinyl is entirely wet when it spins, you’re going WAY too fast. Notice on the picture how only the first few inches out of the water are wet. That’s how slow it spins! Capillarity, superficial tension and gravity keep the water in the bath rather than on the groove. Check out the cavitation deep clean all the crust in the groove like magic! Big one next: No fan! Using a fan is a huge mistake. You blow microscopic dust onto a wet surface. It’ll stick to it as it dries and you’re back to square one with your groove filled with microscopic dust. Just don’t do it, it’s a stupid marketing gimmick. So: fill your bath with deionized water. NO heat. NO chemicals except for a few drops of tergitol. NO fan. SLOWEST speed spinning. I change the bath once it gets filthy at the bottom. Not after 10-20 records but after 100-200 records. The bottom of the bath is filthy. That bit is my preference. You can change bath everyday if you prefer. It’s just a waste. 2. Quick rinse of the wet part with a little deionized water. Shake it off. Don’t wipe. Don’t ever touch the surface of the vinyl. Keep the surface pristine. I use a little squirt bottle. 3. After a good shake of the water droplets, let it air dry for a few minutes on an absorbing pad. Let gravity and capillarity work for you. No gimmick, no wiping. Do not touch the record. Keep it pristine. Do not brush it. Use an anti stat gun if you like it (and know how to use it -ask if you don’t, this is also a tool I use daily in ultra potent medical biohazard fumehoods) 4. Play side A of your pristine record. Side B will be dirty again no matter what, since it will rest against a filthy mat no matter what, while you play side A. Marvel at how clean your record is and how all the clicks and pops have now gone. If there’re still pops and clicks, it’s not dirt but a scratch or a defect in the cut. A lot of my records are imperfect and end up in the “sounds better on the streamer” bin. 5. After that you’re on your own for proper storage. I use ziplock 12x12 pharmaceutical grade bags but they are expensive. Have fun, and thanks for reading! DJ Heisenberg > A 145 page pdf! ALL you need to know! https://thevinylpress.com/precision-aqueous-cleaning-of-vinyl-records/ regards Ian 1
EV Cali Posted July 23, 2021 Posted July 23, 2021 Hi Dr Funk This is my Diy Ultrasonic cleaner journey. Read to the end, as I have mk2 version. 1
Dr.Funk Posted July 30, 2021 Author Posted July 30, 2021 Hi Ian, Thank you very much for your informative reply. Yes I would like to know the correct way to use an anti-static gun please , I have an original Zerostat gun. Tergitol is a detergent I believe, would there be any counter reaction if I were to put some Kodak Photo Flo 200 in with the mix? (as Robin suggests). I like the idea of aiding the drying without marks. I downloaded the 145 page pdf book you linked to, is there any advantage for me to read it after the information you have given, other than curiosity? On 22/07/2021 at 12:00 PM, Ian McP said: Notice on the picture how only the first few inches out of the water are wet. That’s how slow it spins! Capillarity, superficial tension and gravity keep the water in the bath rather than on the groove. Check out the cavitation deep clean all the crust in the groove like magic! Which picture are you referring to? Which ultrasonic cleaner are you referring to that has a deep clean option? When you mention how slow it spins are you relating to something like Robin mentions, a rotisserie motor? Thank you Andy
Dr.Funk Posted July 30, 2021 Author Posted July 30, 2021 Hi Robin, Thank you very much for your reply. Great ideas and a great outcome. I have been through all your posts on the subject and I see that it goes back to 2016. Unfortunately the links are no longer relevant so I will share some with you what I have found and maybe you could make some comments, thanks. I am a Cabinetmaker and Carpenter myself and this is the lifting mechanism I am intending to build (it does not have to be in perspex it could be made from the phenolic IKEA chopping boards). I tried buying it from the manufacturer but they refused to sell me the components unless I purchased a tank as well (it was something like US$1000). I have included two pictures as you may decide to make something similar because of the lifting option. As you can see the locking handle is something we use in making woodworking jigs, the thread inserts work well in the phenolic. I found a similar rotisserie to the one you have at Bunnings; https://www.bunnings.com.au/gasmate-240v-rotisserie-motor_p3180311 but there is no speed given I also found this one; https://www.bunnings.com.au/jumbuck-240v-rotisserie-kit_p3171304 which is cheaper with the added bonus of a rod that I could cannibalise to get the initial square shaft. I also found this on eBay; https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/203491355845?hash=item2f6107acc5:g:Pf8AAOSwxntgxKUs which has the speed 2.5 - 3rpm which seems just right, change the plug, has a separate on/off switch. Finally, I found this which is 12v and variable speed from 5rpm (not sure if this is to fast?) to 9rpm (may aid drying cycle?) https://www.bbqspitrotisseries.com.au/cyprus-spit-rotisserie-motor-13kg-12v-240v I found this 6.5L industrial ultrasonic bath, with heater and timer; https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/124766161136?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1d0ca488f0:g:yAAAAOSwQU1g9lZI&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSxXDXcCydCuSj2Tq2S%252F3GnhgB8kJT2cScVZ8%252FgKYHer1iTi0rkz7b10p359ZXziWB3N8S%252BQlZyzYhXqc7bSobMCOPOK1IQpSFkSs2JmgNcTnHvl3pxXEocvY7p50%252Fns3LgVY%252BzHIMw5il5noWO6vSeF1TPFB104lBTjnIvfVx%252B9Jiq5KZ5histNfBymy6L5t14G2UPlwh%252FuPDw9JPRuPzNjkLKEZXpSKugVoWWhl0Nm4h1vIAMHteoW350zBGSeWW9gSwrn2%252B1jrPlPrDPy3C4VKcf8iYhLrTV6ybTQybucs4cp9KIrmPBLuruDgJjwo5fzyRBSxte6rDN7hkVAVfbSLWtjohiz0b8qng7e9%252BXJujwjjbxZ4%252F3K9Z69gYYcDqpFsrOoEVYh9X9QUyXDwlQCwsvIRWtovulRVGl2Js0jN45PRV3OWLKQo4Z4F443c9iIPBfxG835HVMd%252Fu9SURIBvl16J%252Bz%252FZC6PtVLZxz33W875n1VZ8tb5ONMsH7H42Mob10ygAUrZ7bBb98wpLM%252FL8fz5pX6EZa%252FxLms5QaTAZ587gsYDvLzezq9EIM0fF9qJypF0D2ZWQcZmFgjNilfRDb%252Bc79CucMKAiRF4AOZ3khMeRMRBZM4PLKecIp4RHz6keyhlfNR3TAuRMEENWlAK3rHAm0TV8NWyUXyUiP3lP9kvB1En4Hi9CbO1yvVHORaKgd3kwqbZ4gBqo90eQTdyl68jfJarOjTSBht%252BsgwoNgoSu5O6DNyjDB6ExVqz2QDb5aOS9M7C6%252F1Iwz35%252BMgh4dVvsc2TiPupmsKWgOlzveJbam67nruSUH8ALVDmZw%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524 They all seem to be in the $250 - 280 bracket now. My last question is in regard to how you mounted the motor. I can see that you lift the motor and LP's up all in one go, lifting the motor up and back to free the assembly from its moorings. I can also see that the motor unit is screwed to the mounting plate and that said plate has two locator tabs. Did you make a receiver on the back of the phenolic board to accept these locator tabs? As a footnote I shall share with you that every time we have finished with one of IKEA's chopping boards, I run them through my planer, removing all the cut marks. Then I have various thickness inert plastic that I can use as packers. An example is that I used some as bump stops under my trailer cage, which stops the noise of metal cage against metal box body. Look forward to hearing from you. Thank you Andy
EV Cali Posted July 30, 2021 Posted July 30, 2021 Hi Andy Afraid your links don't work for me The first BBQ Motor that you link to, looks like the one I use. Although some people say the motor should turn as slow as possible ,I am not that bothered about the speed. The Ultrasonic cleaners work by microscopic bubbles forming on the surface of the record and then immediately bursting, so I cant see that speed of rotation is that much of an issue. As long as it is reasonably slow. I do not lift the motor and LP's up all in one go. the motor stays in place and records are removed on the spindle with the spacers. The pictures on page two of my original post should show this more clearly. I tried to make it as simple as possible and now just have brackets either side, with out the frame round the tank. Or If you look through this thread it may be more obvious how it is constructed. Owen based his frame on mine but made it from stainless steel. My thoughts on the bracket you have pictured is that there would be a lot of weight on one point and it would be hard for the bracket not to sag. More than one way to skin a cat so I am sure what ever you come up with will work for you.
Dr.Funk Posted July 30, 2021 Author Posted July 30, 2021 Hi Robin, Thanks for your quick response. I could not find how to copy a link into this message box, in the way that I can in Gmail. I did test them before I sent it, if you highlight all the text then copy and paste into the top search bar of your chosen browser it should work. My thoughts on a lifting mechanism was so that I could air dry the Lp's whilst they rotated in free air. Are you drying yours in a particular way, using a rack, like the one in the link to Owens stuff. (very sad to see his passing back in April). Cheers Andy
EV Cali Posted July 30, 2021 Posted July 30, 2021 I use a vacuum to get most of the water off and then let them sit in a rack until completely dry. I started vacuuming them as I had problems with putting records back in their sleeves, that looked dry but were not completely dry.
Dr.Funk Posted July 30, 2021 Author Posted July 30, 2021 Necessity is the mother of invention! If it works, it works! 1
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