Speaker selector switch matching with amplifier/speakers

[Rocketfrogs]

I need some advice from the brains trust here please.

 

I have a Yamaha AS1100 amplifier 

 

Yamaha A-S1100 Specs

Rated Output Power	At 8 Ohms: 180 W RMS (90 W per channel, 20 Hz to 20 kHz, 0.07% THD) At 4 Ohms: 300 W RMS (150 W per channel, 20 Hz to 20 kHz, 0.07% THD)

 

It has 2 pairs of speaker outputs (A & B).  I current use the 'A' output to run my main indoor speakers which are 4 ohms.  I have been using the 'B' output to run a pair of outdoor speakers rated 8 ohms.  I know to NEVER run both pairs simultaneously.  I will only ever play one pair of speakers at a time.  I want to add another pair of outdoor speakers at the other side of the house rated at 6 ohms.  I want to use a speaker selector switch to switch between either the 8 ohm or  the 6 ohm outdoor speakers.  I will never have both pairs on at once.

 

The specs for the selector switch are below.  What's got me confused is the 50 watts RMS rating.  The guy at Selby's selling the switch had no idea what this meant. Do you think this is the amplifier rating or the speakers?  Could I damage my amplifier/speakers using this switch?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

Features
- 50 Watts RMS per channel
- 2 x Stereo Channels
- Individual On/Off switches for each speaker pair (each channel)
- Individual Volume Control for each speaker pair (each channel)
- Black metal case
- Spring-clip speaker wire terminals accept between 14 and 22-gauge (AWG) cable
- Speaker protection circuit
- Impedance matching to protect your other equipment
- Size: 220(L) x 180(W) x 60(H) mm

[muon*]

Not sure, but if you are running the 6 ohm and 4 ohm outdoor speakers in parallel that equates to 2.4 ohms seen by the amp.

 

In case that was one thing you were looking at doing.

Edited November 8, 2021 by muon*
aggg! typo

[Rocketfrogs]

8 minutes ago, muon* said:

running the 6 ohm and 4 ohm outdoor speakers in parallel

No I'll just be running one or the other at a time.

[muon*]

I would suggest that the 50 watts RMS is about the amp connected, but not sure why this would apply, maybe limited current abilities due to internal wire gauge.

 

Edit: I don't think you could damage anything, unless the amp is a valve amp and there are moments of no load between switching.

Edited November 8, 2021 by muon*

[Rocketfrogs]

27 minutes ago, Rocketfrogs said:

Here's a dodgy schematic of what I mean

[MIKE.D79]

would this suit your needs?

 

I used to use one in my setup and never had problems with it,can do 2 sets of speakers and 2 sets of amplifier. rated at 200w (I think).

 

https://www.playstereo.com/en/selettori-audio-video/2197-beresford-tc-7220-mkii-selector-for-amplifiers-speakers-8012420123100.html#

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

[MIKE.D79]

Just now, MIKE.D79 said:

would this suit your needs?

 

I used to use one in my setup and never had problems with it,can do 2 sets of speakers and 2 sets of amplifier. rated at 200w (I think).

 

https://www.playstereo.com/en/selettori-audio-video/2197-beresford-tc-7220-mkii-selector-for-amplifiers-speakers-8012420123100.html#

 

Hope this helps.

 

Just now, MIKE.D79 said:

Probably want to eliminate the volume control on the switch also, just for simplicity. 

 

 

[RichM]

Don’t use an external speaker switch box with the Yamaha. Output is a floating balanced topology.