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Posted (edited)

Taken from a FS ad pic, I quite like the concept, do they have a name for this type of plug/connector? Can't seem to see anything from Google Images matching it, so am not sure if they are custom ones. I like spades in that  they come up underneath to get closer to the unit but also the ease of plugging of a banana. 

 

Plenty of right angle ones, but nothing quite like this. 

 

image.thumb.png.091cc636e2a1af522ab1520728c730a1.png

Edited by Rockford

Posted
1 hour ago, Rockford said:

Taken from a FS ad pic, I quite like the concept, do they have a name for this type of plug/connector? Can't seem to see anything from Google Images matching it, so am not sure if they are custom ones. I like spades in that  they come up underneath to get closer to the unit but also the ease of plugging of a banana. 

 

Plenty of right angle ones, but nothing quite like this. 

 

image.thumb.png.091cc636e2a1af522ab1520728c730a1.png

wbt 0610 banana plugs,there are a few knock offs that are a lot cheaper but not the same quality

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

And the cables are Kimber Kable.  WBT products are excellent quality, but you pay for it in $ but the sound quality is maintained (unlike the knock-offs). 

 

I don't recognise the banana sockets on the amp.  The knobs look easy to turn, but would a spade fit behind them?

  • 1 month later...
Posted

The connectors are Binding Posts from Vienna Acoustic loudspeakers They accept spade connectors as well....nice looking design produced in house for all their loudspeaker range.

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Posted

Too much metal and plastic for my liking, the multicontact copper shell banana like I use are imho the next best thing to no plug. No screws is the only downside for those who cannot solder or have no one who can solder for them.

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Posted
On 14/04/2023 at 8:25 PM, SonicArt said:

Too much metal and plastic for my liking, the multicontact copper shell banana like I use are imho the next best thing to no plug.

 

Agreed - that's what I've been using for 20 years.  :thumb:

 

I would actually say better than no plug (ie. bare wire) - as with heatshrink over the wire-plug solder join ... any bare wire present can't tarnish like wire without a plug will.

 

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Posted
10 minutes ago, andyr said:

 

Agreed - that's what I've been using for 20 years.  :thumb:

 

I would actually say better than no plug (ie. bare wire) - as with heatshrink over the wire-plug solder join ... any bare wire present can't tarnish like wire without a plug will.

 

just recently replaced some pretty pricey plugs on some well respected australian made speaker cables with mark's multi contact banana plugs(silver soldered and heat shrinked)well worth the small outlay and effort:D🎶

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have Mark's Banana Plugs on my Sonic Art Ebony Speaker cables.....the best banana connector available , giving excellent contact. Currently $39 for 4 connectors plus postage

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 16/04/2023 at 10:47 AM, andyr said:

 

Agreed - that's what I've been using for 20 years.  :thumb:

 

I would actually say better than no plug (ie. bare wire) - as with heatshrink over the wire-plug solder join ... any bare wire present can't tarnish like wire without a plug will.

 

If it is not too much trouble and if you don't mind taking a photo as I can't picture it as what it look like? TIA.

Edited by vinilink

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 14/05/2023 at 8:03 PM, SonicArt said:

OK, I've been inspired by this thread (and @andyr's endorsement) to order a set of these. 

I've never used this style before, and would appreciate advice on soldering the wire onto them. 

  • I would have tended to insert the wire and try to solder it inside the cylinder.  But I note the hook on the top, should the wire be soldered into the curve of it? 
  • Also, any advantage to using silver solder for the job, or is normal (lead-based) solder better?

And a pic to look at, easier to see than from the quoted link!

CGP_BANANA.jpg

Posted
26 minutes ago, audiofeline said:

I've never used this style before, and would appreciate advice on soldering the wire onto them.

Ok, first up solder, using a high quality solder with silver content is beneficial as it flows very well, I use Cardas quad eutectic solder for all my cables and bench work, it is a lead based solder but I like using it and try not to sniff the fumes too much :D  With that said a standard 60/40 will work fine if you have copper cable.

 

Where to solder it, well the tab is there so that the plugs can be piggybacked if needed, for example biwire speaker cable where the owner wants to keep the cables as two separate sets, using the tab on one set allows the other set to plug into the back of the

first banana, and the pair will plug into the amp neatly. I do this myself.

 

If you want a really good connection and you are only single wiring, then you can wrap the copper around the plug or around the tab tightly, then solder it.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just looking at the KIMBER KABLE ULTRA PLATE BANANA plugs.........been in the market place for ages........fantastic connectors for a ultra secure connection. At $25 AUD a pair with Kimber Heatshrink and some solder they are not outrageous pricewise.

Posted

they are nickel plated though,  not the first choice in plating. they are beryllium copper spring sections but the plating kills it for me.

Posted (edited)

Maybe try this, solder after crimping tab onto wire, crimping can be done with pointy nose pliers maybe.

 

Just and idea.

 

CGP_BANANA.jpg.d717006be2e9ab5419672c0d67a788d0.jpg

Edited by muon*
Posted

The copper being beryllium is very hard, I haven't tried to bend it, will check that out tomorrow :) It may simply snap off.

Posted

 

19 minutes ago, bob_m_54 said:

The tab is used as the soldering connection.

 

Of course it is - but Ian's suggestion of:

 

image.png.ebc01a77b363dbe43a045f0ce975bb6d.png

 

 

... is a great idea - providing a very robust connection.  Except you solder the end of the wire after it has exited the barrel, to the tab (not crimp).

 

Posted
10 minutes ago, andyr said:

 

 

Of course it is - but Ian's suggestion of:

 

image.png.ebc01a77b363dbe43a045f0ce975bb6d.png

 

 

... is a great idea - providing a very robust connection.  Except you solder the end of the wire after it has exited the barrel, to the tab (not crimp).

 

Of course it is, as long as you don't want to stack connectors...

Posted

I found re-terminating my foil cable worked out well with these. foil curved round the inside face for a large contact area, and the tab crimped inwards onto the foil to provide a solid connection on one edge before soldering.

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