NeilNZ Posted January 13, 2014 Posted January 13, 2014 I've posted this before, but here's my 301 with Apparition arm and EMT TSD15, sitting on some LignoLab dampers. 6
Citroen Posted January 14, 2014 Posted January 14, 2014 Another 401, in Sapele wood plinth, with Analogue Instruments arm, Denon 103R and with The Wand plus, Dyn 20x2 5
NeilNZ Posted January 14, 2014 Posted January 14, 2014 Here's a LignoLab 301 with EMT arm and cart that I sold a guy a while back. It has a Shindo bearing and platter now too. 6
Citroen Posted January 15, 2014 Posted January 15, 2014 Nice to see another Analogue Instruments arm (Apparition?) with the 301. What's the plinth made of? What cart are you using?
ngquan Posted January 15, 2014 Posted January 15, 2014 Hi Citroen. The plinth is a CLD-design -ply wood/mdf layers. The cart is ESC retipped denon 103 with midas body. Since that picture done i have update my arm lift to Jelco type -much smoother in motion. The Uwe wood body is another option and depend on the rest system one might prefer the wood over the alum body. Quan
peterpan Posted January 15, 2014 Posted January 15, 2014 old school Lenco before the obligatory new heavy plinth and arm upgrade! 2
Guest Mr Thorens Posted March 6, 2014 Posted March 6, 2014 Here's a a lenco L70 with a Fidelity Research FR54 arm.
peterpan Posted March 6, 2014 Posted March 6, 2014 sounds really nice to me Chris. I got a at-oc9/3 cartridge on the Jelco arm and so far very happy. looks like yours is looking very nice there, did the new plinth make a difference? How does it sound Peter
Guest Mr Thorens Posted March 6, 2014 Posted March 6, 2014 Yes the Moldova plinth made a difference. Less resonant and more solid. Here are some notes I made recently when doing an A/B comparison. Lenco L70, FR54 tonearm, Ortofon Rondo Bronze cart. Vs Thorens TD321, Rega RB300 arm, Ortofon Rondo Bronze cart. Lenco Less forward and less sibilant. Not that the Thorens has a problem, it's that you notice it when it's gone. In fact sibilance has disappeared with the Lenco and I'm hearing significantly better decay and more microdynamics. Channel separation slightly wider. Soundstage 3D is much deeper. More relaxed and better detail retrieval. Quieter. Tapping of cymbals more delicate. Bass lines are very distinct and easily picked out of the mix. There's little details and reverb on vocals I couldn't pick out with the 321. Piano sounds more like piano. Sax sounds more like sax not grated not noisy. Lenco very natural and breathes. Very powerful sound lots of body, rhythm and pace. Bass lines very well separated and distinct without overhang. Very transparent like listening to master tape, revealing. Image is rock solid. Lots if realism and very dynamic. The Thorens TD321 in comparison is similar tonally but with a degree of forward ness and a bit of warmth and a slight bit of brightness. This is most likely due to the Rega RB300 arm on it, which isn't bad, but not at the same level as the Fidelity Research (note this became a really obvious point when I mounted the Rega arm on the a Lenco deck vs the FR arm. The FR was way superior, the Rega shrunk the soundstage and sounded a bit forward.). The characteristic Rega arm sound is slightly forward and slightly edgy sound not quite a relaxed presentation as such. A tiny bit of sibilance on the alto sax and flute. Bass is present and quite good but not as distinct or as fast as the Lenco. Soundstage is there but a little bit compressed and less open than the Lenco. Again, may well be partly arm related. Top end and upper mids nice and pleasant on jazz and slower material but a bit compressed on heavier rock. Sweet but not as clean overall. Upper mids quite brash and edgy at times. Note there isn't anything wrong with the Thirens TD321, it's a great deck let down by the Rega arm IMHO. However the Lenco was another level altogether.
TD19 Posted April 22, 2014 Posted April 22, 2014 FYI any 401 owners who might be tidying up or restoring: http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/index.php?/topic/64398-garrard-401-control-panel-faceplate/
Grumpy Posted April 22, 2014 Posted April 22, 2014 I wonder how hard the face plates are to remove and re-install?
TD19 Posted April 23, 2014 Posted April 23, 2014 I wonder how hard the face plates are to remove and re-install? It varies depending on what sort of double-sided tape, or in some cases glue, was used to fix them; sometimes they are really stubborn. You need to be able to be able to get something like the tip of a stanley knife blade under one corner as a starting point. I use a heat-gun (for paint stripping) on the lowest setting and then gently (so as not to bend the faceplate) start to raise the target corner. You can tell fairly quickly if it's going to come off or not. Anyway, there is no point trying if the faceplate is OK, but if it isn't and you have decided to replace it it doesn't matter if you use a bit of brute force! Once off you can then clean off the tape or glue residue on the casting in readiness for the replacement plate. Installation is just a matter of dropping the new one into place. 1
heman_ Posted April 23, 2014 Posted April 23, 2014 Here's a question for Garrard 301 owners - anyone tried or heard a higher mass shindo style platter? I'm very tempted!
Willco Posted April 23, 2014 Posted April 23, 2014 Here's a question for Garrard 301 owners - anyone tried or heard a higher mass shindo style platter? I'm very tempted! Yep here-- Willco 9
lovetube Posted April 23, 2014 Posted April 23, 2014 Yep here-- Willco great set up Willco . i just finish repair one of that arm and it is a very well made . enjoy Duc
Willco Posted April 24, 2014 Posted April 24, 2014 Thanks Duc, Plus for help in the small parts you sent--Very Grateful. Willco
TD19 Posted April 24, 2014 Posted April 24, 2014 Yep here-- Willco Beautiful Willco ... and by the looks of things a serious isolation platform beneath!
Willco Posted April 24, 2014 Posted April 24, 2014 (edited) Beautiful Willco ... and by the looks of things a serious isolation platform beneath! In my experience all Turntables benefit from both Structural and Airborne Isolation--sometimes not always possible with domestic environments. With Solid based Pinths and Non suspended Drives the Minus K is superb and in my book better most alternatives Cost wise it is a no brainer for the improvement wrought to an Analogue system. If you want further enhancement you should consider the K Phenolic Stand as an Integral part of the System Highlyl recommended Willco Edited April 24, 2014 by Willco 3
Peter_F Posted April 24, 2014 Posted April 24, 2014 Cost wise it is a no brainer for the improvement wrought to an Analogue system. If you want further enhancement you should consider the K Phenolic Stand as an Integral part of the System How much is it?
Willco Posted April 24, 2014 Posted April 24, 2014 How much is it? All pricing /etc on their site Willco http://www.minusk.com
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