Soldering Iron Station - Advice needed

[Tweaky]

I've bought a couple of very basic [cheap] soldering irons previously from Jaycar, basically for tinning the ends of cables, they have no temperature control, seem to take a age to heat up and even longer to melt any actual solder, more a PITA than anything else TBH.

 

So I've got a couple of more involved soldering  jobs coming up, and thought I'd stop the frustration and get a soldering iron station that will hopefully make the jobs both easier and less frustrating to do.

One of the jobs requires removing lead free solder first, so I can replace a part, from what I have heard, you need a soldering iron that can reach high temperatures to remove lead free solder.

 

The thing is I'm not sure what I need, and what I should be looking for in a SIS.

What would you recommend?

What are the pros and cons of various types, and what would be nice to have if possible, but not necessarily needed.

The MAX I'm prepared to spend is $400 including GST and shipping.

 

My first Google about SIS's was to find the best brands, and then look to see if they were available in Australia, and if so, how much they cost.

https://www.tomshardware.com/best-picks/best-soldering-irons

 

I saw the HAKKO brand got great rating, so looked them up.

https://rmscomponents.com.au/product-category/soldering/soldering-irons-stations-and-rework-equipment/

 

Well that was like being punched in the face when I saw the asking price of most of them, although I could afford the FX-888DX | Hakko Digital Soldering Station @ $245 [Ironically the only model they have in stock], and as you do, after seeing the prices of the more advance HAKKO SIS's, looked on Ebay to see if any were being sold 2nd hand, there is a used Hakko FX-889 Dual Port Soldering Station @ $300 or best offer.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/276616421476?itmmeta=01J6X2ZX2DHATNN3F2XMAGBPCQ&hash=item40679fa064:g:2FUAAOSwfMRmz8iG&amdata=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4Mxmj%2BiGvOveHXEBClPb29hXnmALZHOt%2FoQjE1gxz6dWo30vnL0IFl%2BNHsChWqpWtSLQsN9iO3YC%2FfkZIn4vKpSwMz3JpSHrxSi%2BS7jI3RJM6PWVvi0ieIeaV24IKiBp64htYY96vRcqVsb0He6ruHOeJSiyyyYt0b2SyesHnIsypKdWScoXe5Jf6yxM4xJr0PdMUIRPq8QKGqoJnr%2BYvvF2w1RLpDuaJWeZ3B%2FSAJOXncx%2FFLevyYE5Mo%2FazuPv0hBEfiYk24YnV1qjOlDNl3W1BpnvWXrLwaoCA6KUuLtG|tkp%3ABk9SR6TR_6K3ZA

 

I also looked at what Jaycar had in the way of SIS's, they have quite a few, but none of the brands they carry were on recommended brands list as far as I could see [Although that list was compiled from brands available in the U.S.A. ]

I somewhat suspect most of them will be poorly built cheap Chinese made junk, please correct me if I am wrong.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/tools-test-equipment/soldering-irons/soldering-stations/c/7EC?srsltid=AfmBOoriKCroH-UeOGkDmFKWB1N1nAOVAiP0JoYz4-G0HfYA1dyL7QxZ

 

Anyway, any help both educating me on the finer points of SIS's and what I should be looking for, plus recommendations, will be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Edited September 4, 2024 by Tweaky

[mwhouston]

Few will agree but this what I have been using since working on the electrical system on the Ark. 

 

https://www.instrumentchoice.com.au/goot-240v-46w-240v-soldering-iron-ects1430?campaign=20704478587&content=678126796263&keyword=&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD-dibw7c3A6ZmxvONtT87AZIjrzb&gclid=CjwKCAjw59q2BhBOEiwAKc0ijWy3PqMywNDNMS_OF-1FHPiwOMjoiKPFveEpTgpgDMdWp2E5VmThGRoCJzEQAvD_BwE
 

 

[Tweaky]

51 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

Few will agree but this what I have been using since working on the electrical system on the Ark. 

 

https://www.instrumentchoice.com.au/goot-240v-46w-240v-soldering-iron-ects1430?campaign=20704478587&content=678126796263&keyword=&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD-dibw7c3A6ZmxvONtT87AZIjrzb&gclid=CjwKCAjw59q2BhBOEiwAKc0ijWy3PqMywNDNMS_OF-1FHPiwOMjoiKPFveEpTgpgDMdWp2E5VmThGRoCJzEQAvD_BwE
 

 

 

I've just been reading this article at the HAKKO website about soldering/de-soldering Lead free solder, which is what I will be attempting.

They are saying that to do that, the soldering iron tip needs to be at 380 C, rather than 340 C for leaded solder.

https://www.hakko.com/english/namari/pages/

 

It also, disturbingly says, that working with lead free solder, lessens the life of soldering iron tips, 4 to 5 times faster than leaded solder.

So that now makes me hesitant to purchase anything secondhand, if only for the probable need of having to get a new tip, not that I'm going to be using it a lot , its just a added PITA I'd rather avoid.

 

Unfortunately, after looking at the specs, your recommended soldering iron doesn't seem to reach the required  temperature.

Thanks anyway.

[muon*]

I grabbed this one a while ago, love it.

 

https://mektronics.com.au/products/hakko-fx-888d-digital-soldering-station-genuine

 

I set mine at 400 - 450 C for everything, I prefer to have the iron on the job for as short a time as possible.

 

Edit: avoid gray imports that are 220vac.

Edited September 4, 2024 by muon*

[mwhouston]

2 hours ago, Tweaky said:

 

I've just been reading this article at the HAKKO website about soldering/de-soldering Lead free solder, which is what I will be attempting.

They are saying that to do that, the soldering iron tip needs to be at 380 C, rather than 340 C for leaded solder.

https://www.hakko.com/english/namari/pages/

 

It also, disturbingly says, that working with lead free solder, lessens the life of soldering iron tips, 4 to 5 times faster than leaded solder.

So that now makes me hesitant to purchase anything secondhand, if only for the probable need of having to get a new tip, not that I'm going to be using it a lot , its just a added PITA I'd rather avoid.

 

Unfortunately, after looking at the specs, your recommended soldering iron doesn't seem to reach the required  temperature.

Thanks anyway.

Stay away from lead free solder, it is absolutely crap. It doesn’t flow well and can produce a cold joint. I use WBT silver solder. Tin, lead and 4% silver. Expensive though. 

[Tweaky]

24 minutes ago, mwhouston said:

Stay away from lead free solder, it is absolutely crap. It doesn’t flow well and can produce a cold joint. I use WBT silver solder. Tin, lead and 4% silver. Expensive though. 

 

I intend to, its sounds like a total PITA to work with.

The problem is I have no choice, I want to replace a joystick on a Playstation 5 controller [I'll probably have to do it on the others eventually ], as its suffering stick drift badly.

The parts are only about $15 , a new controller is about $110, and apart from the joystick part that needs replacing, the controller is fine, and its a well known design fault with the PS5 ones .

 

The problem is SONY has used Lead Free solder inside them, and that's what I need to remove to remove the faulty part, hence the need for a soldering iron that can handle the job.

See from 3.10 of the video.

 

 

 

[aussievintage]

 

Depends (doesn't it always)

 

Put it this way - give me something like this cheap one  https://www.jaycar.com.au/duratech-48w-temperature-controlled-soldering-station/p/TS1620   and I will do 99% of everything I need to do.    It is functionally all I have ever really needed.

 

That's for soldering.  Now if I had a large desoldering job, maybe something else.

[zenikoy]

3 hours ago, aussievintage said:

 

Depends (doesn't it always)

 

Put it this way - give me something like this cheap one  https://www.jaycar.com.au/duratech-48w-temperature-controlled-soldering-station/p/TS1620   and I will do 99% of everything I need to do.    It is functionally all I have ever really needed.

 

That's for soldering.  Now if I had a large desoldering job, maybe something else.

 

Looks like it shares a bit of DNA with the one I have. Sure it's a cheapie but has always got the job done. Minor repairs, electronic kit building, tinning cable tips. Temperature control always full power though!

https://www.digitec.ch/en/s1/product/velleman-adjustable-soldering-station-soldering-irons-5778964

 

Edited September 4, 2024 by zenikoy

[Addicted to music]

Ive used the cheapest of the cheapest and also some of the most expensive temperature controlled with a vacuum pumped solder sucker.   The best are temperature controlled,  and also the size tip is extremely important and what wattage to use.  Using flux also helps.  Ive built the majority of kits with temperature controlled irons.  But recently needed a vacuum pumped solder sucker and this i find very effective if you are going to do some micro pcb all the way to SMD.  With the vacuum pump you really need to continually maintain it so it works its magic first time every time.

 

 https://www.radioparts.com.au/product/38571745/ZD917?CAWELAID=120007580000000809&pid=38571745&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=free+listings&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiuC2BhDSARIsALOVfBLDK5ezuf4gjx4FCJN_ZbBFUuGcvetcsh7dR1W7CRHl9zqPI2002i8aAo97EALw_wcB

 

 

Edited September 4, 2024 by Addicted to music

[Tweaky]

10 hours ago, Addicted to music said:

Ive used the cheapest of the cheapest and also some of the most expensive temperature controlled with a vacuum pumped solder sucker.   The best are temperature controlled,  and also the size tip is extremely important and what wattage to use.  Using flux also helps.  Ive built the majority of kits with temperature controlled irons.  But recently needed a vacuum pumped solder sucker and this i find very effective if you are going to do some micro pcb all the way to SMD.  With the vacuum pump you really need to continually maintain it so it works its magic first time every time.

 

 https://www.radioparts.com.au/product/38571745/ZD917?CAWELAID=120007580000000809&pid=38571745&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=free+listings&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiuC2BhDSARIsALOVfBLDK5ezuf4gjx4FCJN_ZbBFUuGcvetcsh7dR1W7CRHl9zqPI2002i8aAo97EALw_wcB

 

 

 

I saw a similar type of unit for sale at Jaycar that was also fitted with a desoldering gun, not knowing, but guessing something like that would be useful, it had me intrigued.

I was hoping somebody here would have used one, as I've seen another video where somebody has gone about replacing the joystick on their controller, and was making what looked like a dogs breakfast of it while trying to remove lead free solder using desolder braid , and TBH I imagine my attempt wouldn't be much better after reading what a PITA lead free solder is to work with, a desoldering gun would would make jobs like that a whole lot easier.

I just downloaded and read the manual for the DOSS unit above, as it seems to fit my needs and is priced fairly so ATM at least, it looks like I will opt for one of these [Plus its $50 cheaper that the Jaycar one that I have my doubts about anyway ]

 

I've just a few questions, as in the link you provided , and below the actual unit, there are several options regarding, solder iron tips [X4], desoldering nozzles [X3] and replacement filters [X2] there is no mention of filters anywhere in the manual.

 

What would you recommend I purchase at the same time as the most useful ?

TIP Sizes are 0.4mm/1.00mm/2.00mm/4.00mm

Nozzle sizes are 0.8mm/1.00mm/1.3mm

And filter sizes are 16.8mm/20.8mm

[ since there appears to be only a single vacuum tube to suck up the solder, I'm presuming it uses one size filter and the gun end, and the other closer to the unit, if not, why two different  sized filters ? ]

[bob_m_54]

I've done a lot of soldering throughout my working life, using all sorts of gear from the most expensive rework stations, to portable gas soldering irons.

 

I recently had to purchased a new soldering station to replace the ancient (Royel) one I used to use in my electronics repair business, that was beyond economical repair and tips were no longer available.

 

I bought one of these Weller WE1010 70W digital controlled station:

https://www.totaltools.com.au/137686-weller-70w-digital-soldering-station-t0053298599

 

I see Jaycar had one (or a similar model) listed in the link you provided at the top of the page.

 

I paid about $245 for mine at one of the big tool outlets, and I'm very happy with the performance of the unit, and it's a pleasure to use. It has an accurate temperature controller and has a very quick recovery time (which is important). It came with a tiny conical tip, which turned out to be good for the job I purchased it for (fine pitch SMD devices) but I also purchased some different tips for the more common PCB work. (ETA ETB & ETC tips).

 

For the price it's a really good soldering station.

 

Also, with the de-soldering of components with lead free solder, flood the joint with resin cored 60/40 solder before trying to de-solder it. And even when using resin cored solder, always use extra non-reactive flux when soldering.

[GRP]

20 hours ago, Addicted to music said:

 https://www.radioparts.com.au/product/38571745/ZD917?CAWELAID=120007580000000809&pid=38571745&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=free+listings&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiuC2BhDSARIsALOVfBLDK5ezuf4gjx4FCJN_ZbBFUuGcvetcsh7dR1W7CRHl9zqPI2002i8aAo97EALw_wcB

  $249.00 on Amazon AU.

 

Interesting thread as my son gave me his old controller and a couple of new joysticks for me to see whether i could manage a repair. 

[Warren Jones]

I'm a retired tech and have been fixing electronics for nearly 50 years. I too have used Weller, Hakko and Metcal rework stations. My favorite was the Hakko. I didn't like the Metcal. I also didn't use the de-soldering station I always use a Goot solder sucker and solder wick along with flux paste/liquid.

 

Now retired I use 2 relatively cheap eBay temperature controlled stations for both SMD and through hole. They use Hakko tips and the only downside from the Hakko is the short wand lead.

 

The secret is to run the iron as hot as possible with the biggest tip that'll fit and get in/out as quickly as possible. I run my irons at 300C for lead and 450C for lead free and larger jobs. Although now I'm not working I only use lead solder which we were not allowed while on the bench.

 

In older PCB's de-soldering ground planes is the hardest because the large amount of copper soaks heat and leaves the hole still full of solder, I drill the hole by hand with a PCB drill in a pin chuck.

[Addicted to music]

On 05/09/2024 at 8:34 AM, Tweaky said:

 

I saw a similar type of unit for sale at Jaycar that was also fitted with a desoldering gun, not knowing, but guessing something like that would be useful, it had me intrigued.

I was hoping somebody here would have used one, as I've seen another video where somebody has gone about replacing the joystick on their controller, and was making what looked like a dogs breakfast of it while trying to remove lead free solder using desolder braid , and TBH I imagine my attempt wouldn't be much better after reading what a PITA lead free solder is to work with, a desoldering gun would would make jobs like that a whole lot easier.

I just downloaded and read the manual for the DOSS unit above, as it seems to fit my needs and is priced fairly so ATM at least, it looks like I will opt for one of these [Plus its $50 cheaper that the Jaycar one that I have my doubts about anyway ]

 

I've just a few questions, as in the link you provided , and below the actual unit, there are several options regarding, solder iron tips [X4], desoldering nozzles [X3] and replacement filters [X2] there is no mention of filters anywhere in the manual.

 

What would you recommend I purchase at the same time as the most useful ?

TIP Sizes are 0.4mm/1.00mm/2.00mm/4.00mm

Nozzle sizes are 0.8mm/1.00mm/1.3mm

And filter sizes are 16.8mm/20.8mm

[ since there appears to be only a single vacuum tube to suck up the solder, I'm presuming it uses one size filter and the gun end, and the other closer to the unit, if not, why two different  sized filters ? ]

 

Sorry for the late reply @Tweaky  I forgot about this thread.

For the desoldering gun the nozzle is around the 0.8 to 1.00mm  There are 2 size filters; the 16.8mm is used inside the gun and the 20.8mm is used on the hose just before the main unit, so its doubled filtered.   the 20.8mm filtered rarely gets dirty so ive never cleaned it, mainly its the 16.8mm filter that gets the grunt od solder waste.  You also get these long steel rods with the unit that i use regularly to cleaned the suction nozzle out while its still hot, because when its cold the solder solidifies and you cant do anything.  ones your able to clear the nozzle of all solder waste and the small 16.8mm filter its as good as brand new.  but you need to do that regularly because as soon as its clogged it becomes ineffective every quickly.    All this come in the box as standard and you get spare filters and cleaning shafts.

[Addicted to music]

Here is a gas powered solder iron by Weller that i use to use.  Goes places where power is nowhere or out of reach of power points...  This is absolute gold, no need for power.   all you need is a can of butane gas.  Then HR decided in there wisdom that anything flammable, pressurized is now a safety concern and banned, not to be used!  So now we are stuck with $20 jaycar/bunnings specials.

[aussievintage]

Yes, even cheap gas soldering irons are extremely useful

 

[Tweaky]

On 18/09/2024 at 9:17 PM, Addicted to music said:

 

Sorry for the late reply @Tweaky  I forgot about this thread.

For the desoldering gun the nozzle is around the 0.8 to 1.00mm  There are 2 size filters; the 16.8mm is used inside the gun and the 20.8mm is used on the hose just before the main unit, so its doubled filtered.   the 20.8mm filtered rarely gets dirty so ive never cleaned it, mainly its the 16.8mm filter that gets the grunt od solder waste.  You also get these long steel rods with the unit that i use regularly to cleaned the suction nozzle out while its still hot, because when its cold the solder solidifies and you cant do anything.  ones your able to clear the nozzle of all solder waste and the small 16.8mm filter its as good as brand new.  but you need to do that regularly because as soon as its clogged it becomes ineffective every quickly.    All this come in the box as standard and you get spare filters and cleaning shafts.

The day after I posted that question I went back to link and had another look at the unit, it wasn't until I clicked on something else that it was revealed that you basically already get 95% of all the possible attachments included with the purchase.

That sure makes it a huge Bang for $$ knowing that.

Edited September 22, 2024 by Tweaky

[rockeater]

On 05/09/2024 at 6:34 AM, Tweaky said:

I saw a similar type of unit for sale at Jaycar that was also fitted with a desoldering gun, not knowing, but guessing something like that would be useful, it had me intrigued.

I was hoping somebody here would have used one

I am using it as my primary soldering / desoldering tool.

I used to use Weller for soldering and the below blue extractor for de-soldering.

It is from Altronics and as you see I have a spare gun which was only around $25 (I have access to their Wholesale Account).

It was around $250 from memory.

Due to space limitations on my bench, I switched to the Doss station below, which has both units (soldering and desoldering) in one.

Either of them is OK for everyday use, but Doss which I use now has an edge, because it does not clog up that often.

Tip-wise, I bought every tip size that was available for either unit and plenty of spare filters. The tips are only $5 or $6 and because there is nothing more frustrating if the hole in the extracting tip is too small or too large for the components leg you are working on, it was money well spent.

For really heavy-duty soldering or removing components from large ground planes, I go back to the Weller iron with huge #8 tip.

I tend to use 400 degrees and keep the iron in contact with PCB for a very short time.

When de-soldering, I try to have the board vertical and gun horizontal (perpendicular to the board), so that I do not have to fight gravity.

Also, it is more ergonomic that way.

 

If anyone wants that blue de-soldering station with two guns and spare filter and tips, make me an offer via pm.

It is OK for a hobbyist but would not recommend it for busy workshop.

 

[mbz]

Been using the following soldering iron and solder pump for past 8 years, I do a fair bit of repair and refurbishment so they are certainly used weekly often daily... would be nice to get a de soldering station but at what cost...
https://www.jaycar.com.au/25-watt-240v-soldering-iron/p/TS1465
https://au.element14.com/edsyn/ds017/desoldering-gun-standard/dp/871345

[muon*]

11 hours ago, rockeater said:

 

I have a de-soldering station looks like the Blue/Black one, I found the suction a bit lacking so replaced the filter at the machine end of the line with one cut from a piece of Scotch- Brit pad, seemed to help..

 

And use my Hakko for soldering.

[rockeater]

4 hours ago, muon* said:

with one cut from a piece of Scotch- Brit pad, seemed to help..

I used one from the supplier.

It is exactly the same one as the one in glass barrel, but larger in diameter.

[muon*]

9 minutes ago, rockeater said:

I used one from the supplier.

It is exactly the same one as the one in glass barrel, but larger in diameter.

Mine didn't perform well using that supplied one.

[Allan]

Weller

 

Excellent products that last and spares aint ever a problem

 

For PCB use and light gauge cables I suggest this. A wisker over your $400 budget

For heavier work like speaker cables I suggest something like this (maybe with a conical tip)

 

Its important you don't overheat PCBs and components, it will damage them in no time, particularly when cleaning PCBs during repair work, a quality temp controlled unit is vital!

 

The station I suggested above, I have very similar and I've had it now for maybe 20 years. It works every bit as good today as the day I bought it. In my former life as an aviation instrument tech we used nothing but Weller products. 

 

Stay away from portable gas units, they are designed for emergency work where power isn't available. Majority of them more often than not overheat the work causing PCB trace damage and worse still they'll help you create wonderful dry solder joints simply because they overheat solder!!

 

Successful solder joints should be silky smooth and shine, like the one far left just above the tick..

 

 

Believe me, a good solder station makes the tech work, work!

 

A final word. Always, always clean off the solders flux residue on PCBs, its corrosive!

 

A project of mine, zoom you'll see flux residue, I'll clean it once the boards finalised

 

different angle illustrating what should be smooth shiny joints 

 

Edited October 12, 2024 by Allan

[bob_m_54]

2 hours ago, Allan said:

For heavier work like speaker cables I suggest something like this (maybe with a conical tip)

Not sure I agree about the conical tip. A conical tip has the least area of contact, and therefore least amount of heat transfer. A chisel tip with a good heat bridge (a fillet of melted solder between tip and job) will give the most efficient heat transfer and allow completing the joint in the shortest time, minimising the chances damage to the job.

[Allan]

23 minutes ago, bob_m_54 said:

Not sure I agree about the conical tip. A conical tip has the least area of contact, and therefore least amount of heat transfer. A chisel tip with a good heat bridge (a fillet of melted solder between tip and job) will give the most efficient heat transfer and allow completing the joint in the shortest time, minimising the chances damage to the job.

Yes true.. but I did say "maybe". It's job dependant. If the item has potential to soak up temperature then a chisel tip is prefred but if the item doesn't the conical tip concentrates temperature better. 

 

I think the most important thing is, you don't want to rest the soldering tip on items being soldered for excessive time before the solder melts and the items are hot enough to take the solder. This causes items to become way to hot. For example, soldering a component onto a PCB should take 2~3 seconds. Anything outside of this you risk either a cold or porous joint. A shiny smooth result indicates you've everything correct.

 

Edited October 13, 2024 by Allan