Funkster Posted December 11, 2014 Posted December 11, 2014 Hello wise ones,Just picked up these beauties in great shape with original paperwork and I was hoping someone could explain in laymans terms the connections on the back of the speaker ?Am I correct in thinking they are Bi-Wirable ?cheers
Tony M Posted December 11, 2014 Posted December 11, 2014 (edited) Sorry, mate - I very much doubt it. I've had similar vintage Wharfedales with "extra" connectors in simple parallel with the others. Edit: Well whaddya know? - I've made it to 3,000 posts! - only took 8 years or so. Edited December 11, 2014 by Tony M 1
cafe67 Posted December 12, 2014 Posted December 12, 2014 bare wire spring clips and/or banana plugs ??
Sub Sonic Posted December 12, 2014 Posted December 12, 2014 I'm curious as to what the jumper(s) is for. Do they play OK when the speaker wires are in the spring clips but with the jumper/link removed? SS
Tony M Posted December 12, 2014 Posted December 12, 2014 (edited) Maybe I was too quick to dismiss the likelihood that there was something more going on here than parallel connections. Why 2 sets of binding posts vs one set of spring clips? And why black at to top and red at the bottom? And why the jumper only on the black connectors? It's all a bit mysterious. How have you resisted the urge to grab a screwdriver and see what's going on behind there? It's the quickest way to find out and I, for one, would love to know if you do have a look. It doesn't matter if you're not sure what the wiring means - just take some clear pics and someone here will be able to make some sense of it. Of course there's always the possibility they have been mucked around with modified post-manufacture. I haven't found any useful info on the net and I can't remember ever reading anything about those speakers, but I've got a lot of old mags of that era and I'll have a look tomorrow and see if I can find anything. EDIT: I found photos of a pair on Canuck Audio Mart with an identical rear terminal setup down to the single jumper in the black binding posts - so that rules out my idea that they might have been modified. Edited December 12, 2014 by Tony M
Art Vandelay Posted December 14, 2014 Posted December 14, 2014 Hello wise ones, Just picked up these beauties in great shape with original paperwork and I was hoping someone could explain in laymans terms the connections on the back of the speaker ? Am I correct in thinking they are Bi-Wirable ? cheers Do you own something like this?
Funkster Posted November 9, 2017 Author Posted November 9, 2017 Finally pulled my finger out....need advice. Can i cannot banana plugs ? If so, left side or right side or ? Greatly appreciate the help. Cheers
TerryO Posted November 9, 2017 Posted November 9, 2017 (edited) I actually also have a pair of Mach 9's that I purchased new in 85 from memory. I tried them about six months ago for the first time in well over a decade and unfortunately unlike some decent red wines they had not improved with age. If you take the front speaker panel off there is actually quite a lot of wiring inside, what most of it does I'm not sure, nor did I ever work out what the small dials on the top front did. cheers Terry Edited November 9, 2017 by TerryO
Funkster Posted November 9, 2017 Author Posted November 9, 2017 Hey Terry, I have played alot with the front dials and for different genres they do make a difference IMHO. I can only compare them to some of my vintage KEFS and Aarons and the Mach 9s are my go too's. Mine were not been flogged by the original owner who actually kept them in covers ! I love these speakers and they really suit my listening taste. I have 2 left hands when it comes to electronics so I learn as i am going along, but just the set up with the 2 sets of posts and the jumper plug has me buggered. I hope someone can chime in. 1
Guest Hensa Posted November 9, 2017 Posted November 9, 2017 19 minutes ago, Funkster said: Hey Terry, I have played alot with the front dials and for different genres they do make a difference IMHO. I can only compare them to some of my vintage KEFS and Aarons and the Mach 9s are my go too's. Mine were not been flogged by the original owner who actually kept them in covers ! I love these speakers and they really suit my listening taste. I have 2 left hands when it comes to electronics so I learn as i am going along, but just the set up with the 2 sets of posts and the jumper plug has me buggered. I hope someone can chime in. There is only one set of binding posts and they are the spring clip connectors. The jumper connector above the spring clip terminals is linked to the LED - removing it switches off the LED. The connectors below the spring clip are related to the protection circuit - if you insert a jumper connection between these two connectors, the protection circuit is by-passed. So just hook up via the spring clips. If you want to kill the LED, remove the jumper from the top connectors. If for some reason you don't want the protection circuit active, put a jumper between the two connectors below the spring clips.
Funkster Posted November 9, 2017 Author Posted November 9, 2017 25 minutes ago, Hensa said: There is only one set of binding posts and they are the spring clip connectors. The jumper connector above the spring clip terminals is linked to the LED - removing it switches off the LED. The connectors below the spring clip are related to the protection circuit - if you insert a jumper connection between these two connectors, the protection circuit is by-passed. So just hook up via the spring clips. If you want to kill the LED, remove the jumper from the top connectors. If for some reason you don't want the protection circuit active, put a jumper between the two connectors below the spring clips. Thanks so much Hensa for that very detailed reply. Believe me it is much appreciated as I couldn't get much off the web. Just curious, why would you want to bypass the protection circuit active ? Is it because you want to push the speakers more ? First time ever i invested in some half decent speaker cables but, they have Banana connectors so do i just disconnect them and connect the bare wire to the spring clips ? Your knowledge is much appreciated mate. cheers
Guest Hensa Posted November 9, 2017 Posted November 9, 2017 (edited) 12 hours ago, Funkster said: Thanks so much Hensa for that very detailed reply. Believe me it is much appreciated as I couldn't get much off the web. Just curious, why would you want to bypass the protection circuit active ? Is it because you want to push the speakers more ? First time ever i invested in some half decent speaker cables but, they have Banana connectors so do i just disconnect them and connect the bare wire to the spring clips ? Your knowledge is much appreciated mate. cheers You ask a very good question regarding bypassing the protection circuit! I can’t really think of a good reason for doing this but imagine it would enable you to run the speakers beyond recommended levels without the protection circuit cutting in - of course, at great risk of damaging the drivers. In terms of connecting the banana plugs, an alternative to removing the banana plugs would be to use banana to pin adapters which can be secured by the spring clip connector. If the bananas are easy to remove without having to cut the cable, I’d just go with bare wire. If the bananas are properly integrated with shrink wrap, I’d opt for adapters so as not to permanently ruin the cable connectors. Edited November 9, 2017 by Hensa
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