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Posted

@ looks good. I have an original Rega Planar 3 with RB300 arm I bought in 1985. Apart from some different carts. over the years I have never thought of upgrading. Still think it a top TT.

  • Like 1
Posted

@@mwhouston

I have just purchased a Planar 2 and am waiting for a belt to arrive so I can try it out, so your comments on the 3 are welcome.

There are a lot of people who may like to try this as a DIY and it is basically two pieces of ply with holes and grooves. With the amount of picture on ebay there is nothing that would need to be second guessed . 

  • Like 1
Posted

Too farking expensive.

You can build your own out of ply wood for a lot less and get a nicer finish on the wood.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

@@eltech

I thought that was what I was saying. Although I would never actually suggest any one misappropriate the sellers intellectual property using the numerous detailed photos that he has so generously provided.  ;)

Edited by EVcali
  • Like 1

Posted

People have been replinthing their turntables before the internet began. Its nothing new, and only takes some minor thoght to figure these things out.

  • Like 1
Posted

I always it would be funky to divide a plinth like the Rega into 3 parts, 1 for the motor , 1 for the platter/spindle and 1 for the arm base

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

The theory goes that firmly coupling the spindle to the arm base gives better common mode noise rejection in the mechanical realm.

Separating the arm and plinth will show up greater bearing noise.

 

This is why Rega on its new decks uses a metal piece to couple the arm base to the spindle bearing.

Edited by eltech
  • Like 1
Posted

People have been replinthing their turntables before the internet began. Its nothing new, and only takes some minor thoght to figure these things out.

Perhaps if this is your opinion it is a bit odd  that you decided to read and contribute to a thread entitled 'Rega Plinth upgrade" 

I have been a Carpenter and Joiner for forty years and IMO the finish on this plinth would be hard to better .The vernier edging is faultless as is the clear finish of the oak, the general routeing and cut-outs.

It is a belief by some people ,such as Michael Lim ,  http://lpturntables.blogspot.com.au/2010/11/motor-isolation-base-for-rega.html  that there is benefit from isolating the motor of the early Rega TT  from the arm and cartridge and this simple  plinth redesign accomplishes this in an elegant manner.

I like the simplicity of Rega and similar TT but that does not mean that every theory  Rega  comes up with is the best solution to any problem ,as if the isolation of the motor is an issue it would be hard for Rega to admit their previous designs had a problem.

No I would not buy the plinth ,I believe ,as you do, that I could make one cheaper and as good my self but that does not detract from the design and execution of this plinth and plater and perhaps owners of Rega TT who do not have the  wood working skills that I have and I assume you have ,may be happy to pay the cost of this plater and plinth redesign.

  • Like 1
Posted

The theory goes that firmly coupling the spindle to the arm base gives better common mode noise rejection in the mechanical realm.

Separating the arm and plinth will show up greater bearing noise.

 

This is why Rega on its new decks uses a metal piece to couple the arm base to the spindle bearing.

Darn I would have thought furthering separating the arm/needle from motor/ platter noise would have been beneficial , course you reality:-)

  • Like 1

Posted

The idea is not new, I have been building custom made turntables using donor parts and two layer of beech separated by soft rubber pads. The belt drive motor is mounted to the bottom layer and the platter and arm to the top layer.

It works really well.

Cheers

Graham

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  • Like 4
Posted

@@Graham D

Hi Graham 

Nice TT . I like the  use of solid timber, that has allowed the corners to be rounded off.

Not sure if this would be a problem with commercial posting forum rules ,but it would be great if you could give us a bit more info and pictures of your work.

One though I had is that it would give a cleaner look if the on/ off switch was moved to under the plinth ,like on Pro Ject TT. 

Posted

If your preference is the more minimalistic look here is a re-plinthed Pro Ject with single layer, square corners, and switch hidden underneath.

 

Cheers

Graham

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  • Like 2
Posted

Has any one here got a Rega with this sort of setup?

 

I would like to know the benefits of running one this way

Posted

This was my Rega RP3 , motor mounted in bottom layer  , and it does make a  big difference.

@@elcamry. I like this set up and thinking about giving it a go with a project TT. Got any "how to" tips?  Did you have to modify the existing base and how did you mount the motor to your new acrylic base? 

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

If any one out there is thinking of doing this to there Rega-Do it :thumb:

 

Ive just installed one of the SRM Silent tech bases to my Rega Planar3, the set up is very easy to do, the trickiest part is inserting the motor into the Rubber mount on the base.

But even this is not that hard!

 

The SQ has definitely gone up a notch, the noise floor between instruments has dropped, thus making them clearer & more defined :love

 

Ive found this a bigger improvement overall more so than the 24Volt motor upgrade,

 

Cheers

  • Like 1

  • 6 years later...
Posted (edited)

old topic but a good one.

 

anyone removed the motor from a P3 plinth then housed it in its own external shell, a heavy shell at that too like VPI does? Its certainly doable!

then for added plinth mass affix a heavy sheet of steel to the underside of the P3 plinth, again like VPI does!

two very cheap mods to try for the DIYers out there.. easily reversible too

After owning a VPI Aries II (sold here on SN) I'm a BIG believer of motor isolation and big plinth masses

 

Give me a month or two and I'll have these mods done, I'll do before after, hum rumble & crosstalk measurements so stay tuned!

 

 

Edited by Allan
  • Like 1
Guest 12ax7b
Posted

Groovetracer upgrades for the Rega's are far better than farting around with plinths.

For a modest cost you can get a P5 to outperform the old P7, and close to a P9.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

already have a groovetracer premium sub platter, also have the NEO and last week I placed an Audiomods V6 arm order.. the reason I'm now focusing on a heavy platter and motor pod. Have a Sumiko Blackbird MC waiting for a new home.

 

I think the Rega's are a great DIY platform, saves a lot of shopping thats for sure

Edited by Allan
  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Hi @Allan, not sure if you have seen my previous posts, have gone from a slate roof tile with silicone seperation to a full slate base cut from a 600mm  400mm x 10mm floor slate tile with 10mm silicone seperating the original plinth , was using Ecstacy prop spring feet, but decided to go back to squash balls i had previously had. Have the 24v motor upgrade and Tango subplatter, rewired Rega RB250 with Cardas copper, Expresso VTA adjuster, Ortofon Quintet Blue MC cartridge.

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Posted (edited)

Wen,

 

what sonic changes did you notice after adding the slate base to the plinth?

 

 

Edited by Allan

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